Ah, so measuring slightly past where the blade is going to end its travel is what I need to do then. That would make sense and certainly is something one would have to know in advance. On Jul 7, 2008, at 9:06 AM, Dale Leavens wrote:
> Thing is though, you can't really get right up to the edge of the > blade. > > If you are using a tape measure with the hook over the end of the > board the body of the tape measure is slightly rounded so the corner > of the edge of the blade sneaks under it when the blade is tilted. > If you use the hook of the tape against the blade there is a slight > angle under the cutting edge of the blade so, as it enters the wood > the edge you have measured against is nearly the thickness of the > blade closer to the end of the board than you expect, this assuming > you are measuring to the outside slope of the tilt. Obviously, if > measuring to the inside slope of the blade you run into all sorts of > trouble with the distance the tilted blade keeps you from the actual > cutting edge. > > If this description is inadequate I can try again to make it > clearer. It is one of the reasons why those thin laser line light > thingies are so popular with sighted folk, they too have some > difficulties getting really accurate cuts particularly on the angle. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Scott Howell > To: [email protected] > Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:41 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > Ok, I did not answer your question as far as where I measure from. If > I'm cutting a piece and I'm measuring from left of the blade, six > inches, I'd measure to either the right-side or really the middle of > the blade or as close as I can to the middle. I'm trying to account > for the blade width since it eats material. If anything by measuring > slightly more and going to the right of the blade, I might come out a > little longer, but it's easier to cut off excess material than it is > to add it on. Generally I will measure right up to the blade though > and I mean right smack up against the left side of the blade. > > On Jul 6, 2008, at 7:44 PM, Dale Leavens wrote: > > > Where are you mitering to? > > > > The usual way to fit baseboards is to cope the inside corners and > > only miter the outside corners. The next problem is setting the saw > > correctly. Sighted people have to worry about parallax, that is, > > looking straight on at a ruler or the line marked on stock to be > > cut. We have another problem, the edge of a tape measure or even a > > story stick has some thickness and the kerf of a saw blade has some > > thickness more than the body of the blade. Then, are you measuring > > to the same side of the blade? Not a silly question but an easy > > enough error to make and modern carbide blades take out nearly an > > eight of an inch of material when they cut. Finally, if you are > > using a talking tape measure you are only accurate to within a 16th > > of an inch. add to that you could be measuring on the shy side of > > the 16th and transferring to the proud side of the 16th and you > > could be off nearly an eighth. Add that to the mating piece and you > > could be off nearly a quarter of an inch. > > > > Even professionals though do often sneak up on a cut with power > > equipment. > > > > If measuring inside corner to inside corner then the narrowest > > dimension over the width of the trim is the correct measure on the > > long (back) side. If you are using the face then you must subtract > > twice the thickness of the trim material. Measuring the face though > > is very difficult to do accurately because you can't get your > > measuring device snug into the angle where the tip of the teeth meet > > the board. Sighted people look down to the point where the teeth > > will be just clipping off the pencil line and they will use a very > > sharp pencil to draw a very thin crisp line. > > > > At the other side, because the teeth attack on the outer angle your > > measuring device will either be nearly the thickness of the blade > > away from where the outer edge will shave off the wood or it will be > > the thickness of the blade too short, a distance increased by the 45 > > degree angle which is the root of the sum of the squares of which > > the thickness of the blade forms the hypotenuse. > > > > Eventually though you do learn to fudge the measure a little to get > > you very close. With a good miter saw or well tuned and highly > > accurate table saw and the material well fixed down it is possible > > to shave a whisker off of a cut which brings us back to that > > recently and lengthy discussion of inexpensive table saws. It > > doesn't take long to spend several hundred dollars on waste > material. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Howell > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 2:35 PM > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > ,Folks, I'm in the process of cutting baseboard and the like to > > install > > in the living room after the flooring project. Now for some reason I > > just can't seem to get this baseboard cut properly. I have lets > say a > > measurement of 6 3/4 and I place the baseboard on the miter saw > and I > > have tried both measuring with the blade at a 0 angle and then > also at > > the proper 45 degree angle. In both cases it seems that it's just > not > > coming out right, it comes out to short. So, can someone offer some > > tips on mitering trim so when I cut the pieces, I get the 6 3/4 I > need > > and the ends will stick out enough to mate up with the other 45- > degree > > angles to cover the corner? If this didn't make sense, please let me > > know. > > I'd like to get this right and not waste a lot of material. > > > > tnx > > > > Scott Howell > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG. > > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.5/1537 - Release Date: > > 7/6/2008 5:26 AM > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > Scott Howell > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.6/1538 - Release Date: > 7/7/2008 7:40 AM > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
