Scott, I agree with John about the router and table. I have a plunge router that I use almost always in the table. As far as the bits, I took the advice of the tool expert at Lowes. He suggested that I purchase a large set of inexpensive bits to toy with. Then gradually replace the ones that I most often use with a good quality bit. A few years ago on eBay I found a set of 50 1/2" bits with a case for $55. I still haven't used all of them and the few that I regularly use were gradually replaced with mlcs bits. Lenny ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Schwery" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 3:13 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim
Scott, if I understand your post, I would say that a roto tool would be ok for small jobs, but I don't think it would have the power of a good router. If you do get a router, I would suggest getting a router table as well. A plunge router has a bit more versatility than a fixed base router. I have a fixed base router and a table. Sometimes I use the table and sometimes not. You might also want to get a good set of bits, some with bearings and some without bearings. earlier, Scott Howell, wrote: >Wow, that sounds great. I have never used a router, but I do have a >little kit deal that will let me turn my Roto-tool into a plunge >router. Now is this a good router option? Can't say, I just haven't >gotten around to using it in this manner. Guess I still want to learn >how to do it, but just need to get a little free time to play and >realizing I have no clue how to use the unit or any router for that >matter. > >On Jul 7, 2008, at 9:42 PM, Max Robinson wrote: > > > For inside corners a but joint if done properly is indistinguishable > > from a > > mitered joint. If the board is just flat and square the mating piece > > is > > just cut off square. One of the pieces goes up against the wall and > > the > > other buts up against it. If the base board has some shape other than > > square you have to make a cutout on the end of the but end that > > matches the > > profile of the piece that goes up against the wall. I recently did > > this > > using a router with a collar. I cut a very short piece of the board, > > about > > half an inch, and tacked it to the back of the end of the work piece > > with a > > couple of brads. This end will be the waste piece when you are > > finished so > > it doesn't make any difference if you damage it. You want the cut > > off end > > to be a mirror image of the front of the molding so when it is > > butted up > > against it, it will look right. Then I tacked another piece further > > back > > from the end to give support to the router base. Then I routed > > through the > > piece using the front of the short piece as a guide. The cut off end > > turned > > out to be an exact mirror image of the front. This kind of cut is a > > bit > > indefinite so you need to have something on the other end that you can > > adjust such as an outside corner with a miter that you can cut long > > and make > > small adjustments. Oh, yes, of course. If you had two adjacent inside > > corners to do you could cut the other end off square and repeat the > > above > > for the piece that would but up against it. > > > > Regards. > > > > Max. K 4 O D S. > > > > Email: <mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > Transistor site > <http://www.funwithtransistors.net>http://www.funwithtransistors.net > > Vacuum tube site: > > <http://www.funwithtubes.net>http://www.funwithtubes.net > > Music site: <http://www.maxsmusicplace.com>http://www.maxsmusicplace.com > > > > To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, > > > <mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Dale Leavens" <<mailto:dleavens%40puc.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: > > <<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected]> > > Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 7:57 AM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > > > > Ok, > > > > > > This is to measure the outside face of the trim. > > > > > > Because you are cutting two outside corners you need the length of > > the > > > wall plus twice the thickness of the trim. If this is a 7 foot > > wall and > > > the trim is 3/4ths thick you need a piece 7 feet, one and a half > > inches > > > long from tip to tip. > > > > > > The other way you might measure it is to put the two mating pieces > > at each > > > end into place then measure from the outside of one to the outside > > of the > > > other. > > > > > > Finally double check that the face you want is in the correct > > orientation, > > > I have cut the opposite angle to the one I wanted by losing the > > > orientation of the board. > > > > > > The miter saw if you have one is the correct choice, take care to > > clear > > > any dust or debris from the table before placing your board, a small > > > amount can alter the angle quit a bit. > > > > > > Coping a cut is where you cut the end of a board the shape of the > > profile > > > of the board you are mating with. This has no meaning if the > > boards are > > > flat and square but often there are shapes to the face. The shape > > can be > > > scribed however this does not work well for the blind, instead, > > and the > > > way many craftsmen do it is to cut a 45 degree on the face of the > > trim. > > > the point where the angle meets the face gives you a line you can > > easily > > > feel. > > > > > > A coping saw is a fine thin bladed saw on a frame which permits a > > tight > > > turn. Always buy extra blades, they are easily broken. > > > > > > You cut the mitered end off the board by following the point where > > the > > > angle meets the flat face. The best way is to tilt the saw a > > little toward > > > the rear of the board so that you are under cutting the end just a > > little > > > so that a fairly sharp fine edge meets the face of the mating > > trim. This > > > assures an absolutely tight joint.This is for inside corners. > > > > > > Hope this answers who ever was asking about coping. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: Scott Howell > > > To: > > > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] > > > Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:36 AM > > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > > > > > > > > Owch, your killing me my friend. Ok, let me explain a bit more. This > > > room currently has no baseboards at all, they were all pulled and > > > stupid me tossed them out or I could have used them as a template. > > So, > > > what I'm doing is measuring with a ruler on the length of this piece > > > of wall. This wall is basically what separates two stairwells. So, > > the > > > length from corner to corner is 6 and 3/4 inches. In this case, > > these > > > are two outside corners. So, if this were a simple straight cut, I'd > > > measure on the saw the length and just cut. However, because I > > want a > > > 45-degree angle, it would seem that you'd nearly have to include > > some > > > length for that angle so it juts out far enough to mate up with the > > > other pieces at either end that are also cut at a 45-degree angle. I > > > agree you have to take into consideration the width of the blade > > etc. > > > I imagine and not being a math wiz at all, the simple tilting of the > > > blade from a 0 position to a 45-degree position would mean you'd > > have > > > to add on some extra in order to compensate for the angled cut or > > am I > > > just full of crap and have no clue what I'm talking about. > > > I'm not using my table saw, I don't see this as a job for that, I > > > instead am using my miter saw. Additionally, are you saying a coping > > > saw might help with the inside corners? Can a blind person > > effectively > > > use a coping saw? I thought I had seen a post that said it would be > > > very difficult for a blind person to use a coping saw. Being as I'm > > > not an expert on anything woodworking related, but trying to learn, > > > I'm in no position to say one way or the other on coping saws and > > > their use. > > > So, I'm open to any ideas, but would of course like to make as few > > > trips from the basement to the saw work location. > > > > > > tnx > > > > > > On Jul 6, 2008, at 7:44 PM, Dale Leavens wrote: > > > > > > > Where are you mitering to? > > > > > > > > The usual way to fit baseboards is to cope the inside corners and > > > > only miter the outside corners. The next problem is setting the > > saw > > > > correctly. Sighted people have to worry about parallax, that is, > > > > looking straight on at a ruler or the line marked on stock to be > > > > cut. We have another problem, the edge of a tape measure or even a > > > > story stick has some thickness and the kerf of a saw blade has > > some > > > > thickness more than the body of the blade. Then, are you measuring > > > > to the same side of the blade? Not a silly question but an easy > > > > enough error to make and modern carbide blades take out nearly an > > > > eight of an inch of material when they cut. Finally, if you are > > > > using a talking tape measure you are only accurate to within a > > 16th > > > > of an inch. add to that you could be measuring on the shy side of > > > > the 16th and transferring to the proud side of the 16th and you > > > > could be off nearly an eighth. Add that to the mating piece and > > you > > > > could be off nearly a quarter of an inch. > > > > > > > > Even professionals though do often sneak up on a cut with power > > > > equipment. > > > > > > > > If measuring inside corner to inside corner then the narrowest > > > > dimension over the width of the trim is the correct measure on the > > > > long (back) side. If you are using the face then you must subtract > > > > twice the thickness of the trim material. Measuring the face > > though > > > > is very difficult to do accurately because you can't get your > > > > measuring device snug into the angle where the tip of the teeth > > meet > > > > the board. Sighted people look down to the point where the teeth > > > > will be just clipping off the pencil line and they will use a very > > > > sharp pencil to draw a very thin crisp line. > > > > > > > > At the other side, because the teeth attack on the outer angle > > your > > > > measuring device will either be nearly the thickness of the blade > > > > away from where the outer edge will shave off the wood or it > > will be > > > > the thickness of the blade too short, a distance increased by > > the 45 > > > > degree angle which is the root of the sum of the squares of which > > > > the thickness of the blade forms the hypotenuse. > > > > > > > > Eventually though you do learn to fudge the measure a little to > > get > > > > you very close. With a good miter saw or well tuned and highly > > > > accurate table saw and the material well fixed down it is possible > > > > to shave a whisker off of a cut which brings us back to that > > > > recently and lengthy discussion of inexpensive table saws. It > > > > doesn't take long to spend several hundred dollars on waste > > material. > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Howell > > > > To: > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] > > > > Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 2:35 PM > > > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > > > ,Folks, I'm in the process of cutting baseboard and the like to > > > > install > > > > in the living room after the flooring project. Now for some > > reason I > > > > just can't seem to get this baseboard cut properly. I have lets > > say a > > > > measurement of 6 3/4 and I place the baseboard on the miter saw > > and I > > > > have tried both measuring with the blade at a 0 angle and then > > also at > > > > the proper 45 degree angle. In both cases it seems that it's > > just not > > > > coming out right, it comes out to short. So, can someone offer > > some > > > > tips on mitering trim so when I cut the pieces, I get the 6 3/4 > > I need > > > > and the ends will stick out enough to mate up with the other 45- > > degree > > > > angles to cover the corner? If this didn't make sense, please > > let me > > > > know. > > > > I'd like to get this right and not waste a lot of material. > > > > > > > > tnx > > > > > > > > Scott Howell > > > > <mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > > > Checked by AVG. > > > > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.5/1537 - Release Date: > > > > 7/6/2008 5:26 AM > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Scott Howell > > > <mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > > Checked by AVG. > > > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.6/1538 - Release Date: > > 7/7/2008 > > > 7:40 AM > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > > > > <mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > > > > <http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29>http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > > > Or > > > > <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/>ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > > > > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > > > > <http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday>http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > > > > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From > > Various > > > List Members At The Following address: > > > > <http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/>http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > > > > > Visit the archives page at the following address > > > > <http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/>http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > > > > > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the > > following > > > address for more information: > > > <http://www.jaws-users.com/>http://www.jaws-users.com/ > > > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind > > Handy Man > > > list just send a blank message to: > > > > <mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Scott Howell ><mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com >Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.6/1540 - Release Date: >7/8/2008 6:33 AM John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links __________ NOD32 3251 (20080708) Information __________ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
