The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 150 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: <E36> M3 weird noise Re: <E36> M3 weird noise e28 water pump leak Re: e28 water pump leak Re: e28 water pump leak Re: e24 differential Re: e24 differential Re: Plugs and wires
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 08:02:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: <E36> M3 weird noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey all, I just completed about 500 miles worth of driving over this past weekend in the M3. A little ways before exiting the freeway as I returned home, I began to hear a very low volume rumble. I had been playing with the "LIMIT" function on the OBC for a little while, trying to reset it back to the --- value, but I don't *think* it is related. At first I just thought it a rumble from the subwoofer, so I ignored it and drove on. When it returned again a couple miles later, I turned off the radio completely and could still hear it. Upon accelerating, the rumble would remain low frequency, but it became somewhat louder, and then I could definitely feel it, but it was a very muted vibration. I suddenly thought that maybe the LIMIT OBC thing actually did try to limit the vehicle speed to what it was set at, but I realized I was 5mph over what the limit was set to and that this was a silly idea, so I half discarded that thought branch. I had done a bit of hard driving on the freeways this weekend and this morning (3rd gear 6k rpm shifts entering on-ramps, etc, as I did all my driving today very early this morning and the freeways were empty). I then began to think it was the engine, but I guess the transmission or other parts of the driveline could be the culprit as well. I *think* after finally exiting the freeway and trying a couple hard acceleration runs on the street close to home, the car felt a tad low on power, but I can't be sure. I think the best way to describe the vibration I felt was like the engine was lugging at cruising speed. I had the clutch replaced last summer (about 10k miles ago, I guesstimate), followed by the VANOS unit (in search of a fix for a nagging chain rattle and pinging problem), and I just went through replacing the rear pads and rotors 2 weeks ago, in addition to (finally) trimming the internal bump stops from the front Bilstein Sports (that was a LOT of work for something so small, but it made a huge improvement in how the car rides). So...any ideas anyone what this vibration could be? One more note: I did notice on the passenger side of the car, when I was doing the rear brakes, that there was a LOT of caked dirt and such on the backside of the trailing arm hub area as I disassembled it. Upon closer inspection there was a fair amount of built up grease in the area as well. However, it looked like the passenger side bearing, axle, and hub had been replaced before, as there was significantly less rust on them as compared to the driver's side, so I chocked up the gloops (that's a technical term) of grease to being "squeeze-out" from when the axle was replaced. I inspected the CV boot and it looked fine, no tears, and I did notice a slight dent in the metal sealing clamp for the boot on the outboard side of the outer CV joint, but it didn't appear to have deformed the ring enough to allow so much grease to squeeze out (but, of course, I could be wrong). Perhaps the extended drive this weekend squeezed more out and now the CV joint is shot and needs replacing again? Eh.... those axles aren't cheap... On the way to work on Friday morning before I even began this weekend's journey, the A/C blower suddenly went out. Blowing on 4, suddenly, nothing. Dang, must be that final stage resistor pack, I thought. But wait, it's on 4, and it's not blowing, I thought it wasn't supposed to work on everything but 4. I checked the fuses, blown #20 "Heater blower". Okay, no biggie, I thought, that's easy. Then all this! :( In any case, I mention all the details in case something similar has happened to anyone else and someone just might know exactly what the problem is. Man-o-man I sure hope it's not the engine... :( Thanks all for your time. Brian 95 M3 102k __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 09:56:11 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Brian Ruiz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> M3 weird noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Drive in a zig-zag fashion. A wheel bearing will grumble louder when loaded. Another suspect is the driveshaft, either the flex joint or the center bearing. Gary Derian > Hey all, > > I just completed about 500 miles worth of driving over > this past weekend in the M3. A little ways before > exiting the freeway as I returned home, I began to > hear a very low volume rumble. I had been playing > with the "LIMIT" function on the OBC for a little > while, trying to reset it back to the --- value, but I > don't *think* it is related. At first I just thought > it a rumble from the subwoofer, so I ignored it and > drove on. When it returned again a couple miles > later, I turned off the radio completely and could > still hear it. Upon accelerating, the rumble would > remain low frequency, but it became somewhat louder, > and then I could definitely feel it, but it was a very > muted vibration. I suddenly thought that maybe the > LIMIT OBC thing actually did try to limit the vehicle > speed to what it was set at, but I realized I was 5mph > over what the limit was set to and that this was a > silly idea, so I half discarded that thought branch. > I had done a bit of hard driving on the freeways this > weekend and this morning (3rd gear 6k rpm shifts > entering on-ramps, etc, as I did all my driving today > very early this morning and the freeways were empty). > I then began to think it was the engine, but I guess > the transmission or other parts of the driveline could > be the culprit as well. I *think* after finally > exiting the freeway and trying a couple hard > acceleration runs on the street close to home, the car > felt a tad low on power, but I can't be sure. I think > the best way to describe the vibration I felt was like > the engine was lugging at cruising speed. I had the > clutch replaced last summer (about 10k miles ago, I > guesstimate), followed by the VANOS unit (in search of > a fix for a nagging chain rattle and pinging problem), > and I just went through replacing the rear pads and > rotors 2 weeks ago, in addition to (finally) trimming > the internal bump stops from the front Bilstein Sports > (that was a LOT of work for something so small, but it > made a huge improvement in how the car rides). > > So...any ideas anyone what this vibration could be? > > One more note: I did notice on the passenger side of > the car, when I was doing the rear brakes, that there > was a LOT of caked dirt and such on the backside of > the trailing arm hub area as I disassembled it. Upon > closer inspection there was a fair amount of built up > grease in the area as well. However, it looked like > the passenger side bearing, axle, and hub had been > replaced before, as there was significantly less rust > on them as compared to the driver's side, so I chocked > up the gloops (that's a technical term) of grease to > being "squeeze-out" from when the axle was replaced. > I inspected the CV boot and it looked fine, no tears, > and I did notice a slight dent in the metal sealing > clamp for the boot on the outboard side of the outer > CV joint, but it didn't appear to have deformed the > ring enough to allow so much grease to squeeze out > (but, of course, I could be wrong). Perhaps the > extended drive this weekend squeezed more out and now > the CV joint is shot and needs replacing again? > Eh.... those axles aren't cheap... > > On the way to work on Friday morning before I even > began this weekend's journey, the A/C blower suddenly > went out. Blowing on 4, suddenly, nothing. Dang, > must be that final stage resistor pack, I thought. > But wait, it's on 4, and it's not blowing, I thought > it wasn't supposed to work on everything but 4. I > checked the fuses, blown #20 "Heater blower". Okay, > no biggie, I thought, that's easy. Then all this! :( > > In any case, I mention all the details in case > something similar has happened to anyone else and > someone just might know exactly what the problem is. > Man-o-man I sure hope it's not the engine... :( > > Thanks all for your time. > Brian > 95 M3 102k > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 12:26:40 -0400 (EDT) From: "DRENDEL JOHN V." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: e28 water pump leak Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dear Friends, If anyone is listening on a lovely sunday morning. I'm on the road in New Jersey in my 1885 E28 535i with 128,000 miles. The water pump has started to leak. I've got a spare in the trunk,but I'm wary of a shade tree repair unless absolutely necessary -- I've had too much grief breaking the cap screws on these things, and I don't want to do that in a roadside reststop. Should I be able to make the 500 miles back to Montreal in one piece ? John Drendel Departement d'Histoire Universite du Quebec a Montreal CP 8888 Succ. "Centreville" Montreal Qc. Canada H3C 3P8 514 987 3000 3687# ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 13:23:19 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "DRENDEL JOHN V." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: e28 water pump leak Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You did coat all the bolts with anti-seize the last time, didn't you? Try removing the fan to reduce the load on the pump bearing for your trip home. Gary Derian > Dear Friends, > If anyone is listening on a lovely sunday morning. > I'm on the road in New Jersey in my 1885 E28 535i with 128,000 miles. The > water pump has started to leak. I've got a spare in the trunk,but I'm wary > of a shade tree repair unless absolutely necessary -- I've had too much > grief breaking the cap screws on these things, and I don't want to do that > in a roadside reststop. Should I be able to make the 500 miles back to > Montreal in one piece ? > > John Drendel > > Departement d'Histoire > Universite du Quebec a Montreal > CP 8888 Succ. "Centreville" > Montreal Qc. Canada H3C 3P8 > 514 987 3000 3687# > > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 10:34:59 -0400 (EDT) From: "DRENDEL JOHN V." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: e28 water pump leak Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks, Gary. If it had been me of course I would have coated every thing with copper anti-seize. But such is not the case, whence my tredpidation. 10-4 on the fan, it's a cool day and that should not pose a problem. Many thanks, John John Drendel Departement d'Histoire Universite du Quebec a Montreal CP 8888 Succ. "Centreville" Montreal Qc. Canada H3C 3P8 514 987 3000 3687# Ypp On Sun, 21 May 2006, Gary Derian wrote: > You did coat all the bolts with anti-seize the last time, didn't you? Try > removing the fan to reduce the load on the pump bearing for your trip home. > > Gary Derian > > > > Dear Friends, > > If anyone is listening on a lovely sunday morning. > > I'm on the road in New Jersey in my 1885 E28 535i with 128,000 miles. The > > water pump has started to leak. I've got a spare in the trunk,but I'm wary > > of a shade tree repair unless absolutely necessary -- I've had too much > > grief breaking the cap screws on these things, and I don't want to do that > > in a roadside reststop. Should I be able to make the 500 miles back to > > Montreal in one piece ? > > > > John Drendel > > > > Departement d'Histoire > > Universite du Quebec a Montreal > > CP 8888 Succ. "Centreville" > > Montreal Qc. Canada H3C 3P8 > > 514 987 3000 3687# > > > > > > > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 15:01:44 -0500 From: David Morales <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: e24 differential Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks for the information; it has been very useful. I'm toying with the idea of a 3.91 diff, which would be a 13% higher ratio. That would change my 80-mph engine speed from about 3000 rpm to some 3400 rpm. 4.10 would get it it to about 3500. I wonder if the fuel economy will also be 13% worse... I just read some place that you only have to change the differential cover to make an E30 diff work on an E24/E28. Do you know if this information is correct? Thanks very much for the help. David Morales 85 635CSi 85 535i 85 318i 87 Alfa Romeo Milano Gold ________________________ On 5/15/06 8:55 PM, "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > David asks >> My 1985 635CSi needs a new differential. I have an open differential from an >> 1985 E28 535i, which I was thinking of using, and which has a 3.25:1 ratio, >> but it appears that this is a lower ratio than what was used on the 635s. >> Unfortunately, the differential on the 635 is missing the tag that would >> tell me what I have. What was the ratio for the standard differential on the >> 85 635? If the spare differential I have is too tall, I9ll be shopping for a >> limited slip diff. Will the differential from an E30 work (for example, can >> it handle the torque)? And what would be a nice ratio that will give me >> somewhat better acceleration but keep the engine speed at a reasonable RPM >> at highway speeds? Thanks for your help! > > I think E30 6 cylinder cars (and M3) use the same diff internals as E28 > and E24 (not M6 though I don't think). Case is different, so you have to > swap internals from E30 case to E24 case. > > looking at the ETK it seems that > E24 635/633 3.46 > E24 M6 3.91 > E28 535i 3.25 > > So yes, it seems like the 535i ratio is too lazy for your needs. > > There was an article in E30s and differential swapping in European Car a > few years ago.. I've found a copy here: http://www.e30eta.com/ecdiff.htm > > It has a nice table of diff's, ratios, and where they fit relating to > E30s. A common-as-dirt diff for E30 is 3.73 which would give you a small > boost in performance without causing any problems with too high rpm. > > (I put a 4.10 in my E30 instead of the 3.73 and it works great! about > 500rpm higher at cruise, which is no big deal) > > > Chris Pawlowicz > '89 325iT > '89 325i > '99 Z3 2.8 > '97 F650 > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 16:26:57 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Cc: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: e24 differential Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> E28-E30 swaps for the medium sized case (the one in E30 325/M3 cars, E28 525, 528, 535 cars, E24 630, 633, and 635 cars), require both the cover and output (side shafts) flange exchange. Very doable in a driveway. IF you can swap the units, youcan swap the pieces. Ed David Morales wrote: >Thanks for the information; it has been very useful. I'm toying with the >idea of a 3.91 diff, which would be a 13% higher ratio. That would change my >80-mph engine speed from about 3000 rpm to some 3400 rpm. 4.10 would get it >it to about 3500. I wonder if the fuel economy will also be 13% worse... > >I just read some place that you only have to change the differential cover >to make an E30 diff work on an E24/E28. Do you know if this information is >correct? > >Thanks very much for the help. > >David Morales >85 635CSi >85 535i >85 318i >87 Alfa Romeo Milano Gold > >________________________ > >On 5/15/06 8:55 PM, "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > >>David asks >> >> >>>My 1985 635CSi needs a new differential. I have an open differential from an >>>1985 E28 535i, which I was thinking of using, and which has a 3.25:1 ratio, >>>but it appears that this is a lower ratio than what was used on the 635s. >>>Unfortunately, the differential on the 635 is missing the tag that would >>>tell me what I have. What was the ratio for the standard differential on the >>>85 635? If the spare differential I have is too tall, I9ll be shopping for a >>>limited slip diff. Will the differential from an E30 work (for example, can >>>it handle the torque)? And what would be a nice ratio that will give me >>>somewhat better acceleration but keep the engine speed at a reasonable RPM >>>at highway speeds? Thanks for your help! >>> >>> >>I think E30 6 cylinder cars (and M3) use the same diff internals as E28 >>and E24 (not M6 though I don't think). Case is different, so you have to >>swap internals from E30 case to E24 case. >> >> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 09:07:09 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Plugs and wires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> But what will Rob use in the mean time? :^) Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 18:20:23 -0700 >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: John Peacock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Cc: [email protected] >Subject: Re: Plugs and wires >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Instead of a CAI, try Rob's Viper Airbox. It is an actual airbox with >internal cup filter. >Barry > > ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(8 messages) **********
