The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 191 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: E36 Trans Ist Kaput Re: E36 Trans Ist Kaput Re: E36 Trans Ist Kaput E36 cabrio top problem Installing GC E36 camber plates, need advice Re: <FS> E21 320i. 67K miles - 160hp For Sale: 1996 E36 M3 Exhaust E36 control arm replacement Re: E36 control arm replacement
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2006 10:01:52 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 Trans Ist Kaput Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The saga continues... I picked up my car last night after it had its rebuilt transmission installed by my local BMW dealer. Pulled it off the trailer a half hour ago only to find three small drips of transmission fluid on the floor of the trailer. It is leaking from between the transmission and engine, not much but enough so there is a visible drip of fluid, nice and clean and gold in color. It isn't as slippery as engine oil so I don't think it's that and it seems lighter in color than the oil I have in my engine. It is also slightly wet with fluid at the seam that runs around the trans by the drain and fill plugs. They replaced the pilot bearing while they were in there but I don't know what to do at this point. When I call this guy he is going to commit Hari-Kiri with his impact wrench... Is there anything else that might be causing these transmissions to leak? I do have a lightweight flywheel installed, I am going out on a limb here but could there be a crankshaft bearing on it's way out that wouldn't make the engine run like crap?? The engine runs fantastically, oil pressure is good, the idle is nice and smooth so I don't think there's a problem but WTF??? Any advice is appreciated before I am responsible for the ritual self disembowelment of a BMW master tech. Thanks -- Jamie Howton 2006 M Roadster 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2006 21:17:19 -0500 From: "Bill Proud" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Jamie Howton'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "'UUC Digest'" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 Trans Ist Kaput Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I hate to suggest this but ...HOW do you KNOW he didnt just try to put yet another seal in your old transmission ?? Did you physically mark (stamp initials on a housing somewhere ) your old trans prior to removal ? Did you see it sitting on the shop floor with your VIN number or name and bank account number on it? Did you record the old trans serial number when you watched him drop it last week? Was there a serial number on the replacement transmission ? Is it now identified in your cars service records ? Many nefarious things are done to make a few extra bucks by some folks .Seen the results of a lot of it in 36 yrs messing with BMWs ...and 40 yrs in aerospace QA engineering . The man is probably VERY honest , but think about it .... Maybe they just overfilled it ? The seal on the input shaft is intended as a dynamic seal to retain the oil that is flung up against it when the car is running . It will NOT hold oil in the gearbox if the oil is resting behind it when the car is at rest ..it will leak..which is why oil level IS important .Pull the oil-level plug and catch whatever runs out -then see if it still leaks ...When a trans is laid on the shop floor it is SO easy to overfill them ...Reminds me of the time my wife came home with a brand new lawn mower from Walmart that had the oil filled at the store ...and I MEAN FILLED ....couldnt turn the damned thing over for hydraulic lock ...those ladies in the garden dept took the instructions literally !! Big Bad Bill the BMW Boy Bill Proud. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jamie Howton Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2006 10:02 AM To: E36M3 Cc: UUC Digest Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 Trans Ist Kaput The saga continues... I picked up my car last night after it had its rebuilt transmission installed by my local BMW dealer. Pulled it off the trailer a half hour ago only to find three small drips of transmission fluid on the floor of the trailer. It is leaking from between the transmission and engine, not much but enough so there is a visible drip of fluid, nice and clean and gold in color. It isn't as slippery as engine oil so I don't think it's that and it seems lighter in color than the oil I have in my engine. It is also slightly wet with fluid at the seam that runs around the trans by the drain and fill plugs. They replaced the pilot bearing while they were in there but I don't know what to do at this point. When I call this guy he is going to commit Hari-Kiri with his impact wrench... Is there anything else that might be causing these transmissions to leak? I do have a lightweight flywheel installed, I am going out on a limb here but could there be a crankshaft bearing on it's way out that wouldn't make the engine run like crap?? The engine runs fantastically, oil pressure is good, the idle is nice and smooth so I don't think there's a problem but WTF??? Any advice is appreciated before I am responsible for the ritual self disembowelment of a BMW master tech. Thanks -- Jamie Howton 2006 M Roadster 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.10/383 - Release Date: 7/7/06 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2006 22:42:41 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 Trans Ist Kaput Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I hate to suggest this but ...HOW do you KNOW he didn't just try to put > yet another seal in your old transmission ?? There's no question that it's a different transmission, the shape of the housing is slightly different, it is very clean and has a blank VIN tag where my old one had the actual VIN number on the tag. After I spoke to the mechanic today, I cleaned it all up with brake cleaner and let the car idle in neutral for half an hour then in first gear for half an hour. So far no dripping, I will check it again in the morning. -- Jamie Howton 2006 M Roadster 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2006 10:19:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: E36 cabrio top problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Digesters, Problem here with '94 325iC w/ semi-automatic top. It's my sister's car; I have it for a couple weeks to do a bunch of maintenance/minor repair type work to it before she moves across the country. At any rate, the soft top worked when I last used the car a month ago; today it got stuck in the intermediate position after a top-down drive. Problem: Attempted to put top up; normal procedure is: 1) Tonneau up 2) Top up, rear window down 3) Rear window pops up 4) Tonneau goes down, latches, 5) Rear window goes back down mostly 6) Driver manually latches windshield edge; this forces rear window to seal on latched tonneau. Steps 1-5 are driven by the top motor. Putting the top up, it got stuck repeatedly at step 3; the rear window wouldn't pop up to allow the tonneau to come down. After several tries, I popped the disconnect for manual operation. The canvas top moves just fine in all intended directions. The tonneau cover, however, will not close with the top up or down. It has a two-part latch; rear latch/guide on each side in the top compartment catches a pin and guides the tonneau through the arc it describes; when it is about 1/2" open a pair of latches at the leading edge catch and the tonneau is pulled flush by the motor. Passenger side works fine. Driver side, the tonneau comes down about 1/4" in front of the guide; I can pull the tonneau into the guide whilst pushing it down. However its arc is off, and it ends its motion skewed nearly 1" forward of where it should be, preventing the front latch from engaging. I found a procedure for re-connecting and syncing the motor, but it requires the top to be down and latched manually and therefore it doesn't work for me as I can't get to the intial conditions. Any input on how the tonneau can be misaligned like that is welcome. Thanks much, tammer __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2006 18:16:59 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: 318ti <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC <[email protected]> Subject: Installing GC E36 camber plates, need advice Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have finally gotten my 60mm front camber/caster plates for my 96 E36 318t and I am trying to figure out the proper installation configuration with my TC Kline/Koni DA coilovers. I did not receive any installation instructions with the plates and I am in need of advice about the proper layout of the stepped spacers that fit in the spherical bearing to align the struts. There are two with each plate, two different heights. Do I sue both, one bottom one top? if so which on top and which on bottom? If I am to use both I may have a real problem at the top of the TC Kline/Koni strut is stepped and threaded such that using both spacers does not allow adequate thread engagement for the nut. If I use two short spacers I barely have enough and I would need to get two more shorties. Is it possible that I am to use only one, either to or bottom? It would seem that would not support the strut as well, but maybe more than well enough. I would like to chat with anyone who has experience with this issue. I can take some pictures to illustrate if needed. I look forward to and thank you all for any help you can provide. I am anxious to get my suspension installed, as my current struts are failing fast. David Ellsworth in Richmond, VA ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2006 21:11:40 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <FS> E21 320i. 67K miles - 160hp Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2006 19:29:18 -0700 From: Rex Tener <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMW UUC List <[email protected]> Cc: Rex Tener <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: For Sale: 1996 E36 M3 Exhaust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My black E36 M3 has been sold and the new owner does not want the stock exhaust. It was approximately 3 years old with 30K miles when it was removed. Pictures can be seen at: <http://ninemisfit.com/vehicles/1996_bmw_m3/forsale/exhaust/> An inexpensive upgrade for E36 325i/325is cars. I am asking $100 and SF Bay Area pickup (Los Altos). -- Rex Tener [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2006 10:07:54 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E36 control arm replacement Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Done the job around six times on E30 cars. What are the "gotcha's" to do this on a 328 E36 sedan? TIS, naturally says outer ball joint to knuckle requires a special tool. On an E30, I use an impact hammer with a pencil tip, aimed downward. Will this work? Inner ball joint is a PITA on an E30, TIS says to simply remove nut and strike with a "plastic" hammer. Do I believe them? TIA, Ed ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2006 09:29:35 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 control arm replacement Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Inner ball joint is a PITA on an E30, TIS says to simply remove nut and > strike with a "plastic" hammer. Do I believe them? On my M3 I used a standard "pickle fork" with a 4lb deadblow hammer. It popped it right off. The plastic hammer might work but I think it would have to be a really big and really heavy one... Regards -- Jamie Howton 2006 M Roadster 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(9 messages) **********
