The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 154 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: E36 M3 Door panels Re: E36 M3 Door panels Re: E36 M3 Door panels Re: Shipping a vehicle to Germany Re: Shipping a vehicle to Germany <E46> Climate control question Re: <E46> Climate control question <WOB> test E34 M30 Overheating
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 17:36:29 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 M3 Door panels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It is repairable, at least on E34s. Heat and stretch the vinyl. Cut a slit behind the trim panel if necessary to let the vinyl stretch out a bit more. Drill a hole in the back. Apply Gorilla Glue (urethane adhesive) behind it. Pull a vacuum through the hole and hold until glue sets. Gary Derian > The glue gets soft with heat, and the leather like coating shrinks. not > repairable. > extremely common problem. > > only fix is re-upholstering those (not worth it at all) or locating a > salvage pair from a junque yard for on average $200 - $400 for a pair > (depending on color and age) > > Or the dealer, $700 / panel last time I looked. > > Best of luck, > > Peter > > > > On May 25, 2006, at 9:36 AM, kelvin wrote: > > All, > The glue is delaminating off my door panels. Upon taking the door panel > off, it's apparent that it's ONLY held by glue and nothing else. (no > staples, etc). > > I'm going to assume this is a common problem over time due the glue > losing > it's bonding ability. Is this a good assumption? Is there anything that > can be done about this? > > Also, any suggestions on buying door panels? > > thanks! > -kelvin > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ > [email protected] > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 19:52:12 -0400 From: "Chet Dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E36 M3 Door panels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Or, visit your local JoAnn's fabric store and for about $20 you can have enough matte black vinyl (matches PERFECTLY on my '95 M3) to cover at least one panel. Then some 3M (don't go for the cheap stuff) upholstery adhesive and a few hours of your time and viola. The hardest part was getting the OE stuff off that had not already de-laminated. Cheers, Chet Dawes > [Original Message] > > > > only fix is re-upholstering those (not worth it at all) or locating a > > salvage pair from a junque yard for on average $200 - $400 for a pair > > (depending on color and age) > > > > Or the dealer, $700 / panel last time I looked. > > > > Best of luck, ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 16:22:23 -0700 (PDT) From: david kroth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E36 M3 Door panels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kelvin, > The glue is delaminating off my door panels. ... > I'm going to assume this is a common problem over > time due the glue losing > it's bonding ability. Is this a good assumption? Yup. Common problem on E36 cars. > Is there anything that > can be done about this? Yup. Buy a new one from a mail order discount dealer. Used ones are comparatively expensive and you're giving up much of the useful life of the panel. I replaced the panels on my '93 325is a few years ago for $350 each. Ouch. Used ones on ebay were going for $200-250 at the time. Some later models are much more expensive due to leather inserts and other details. David Kroth [EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 07:41:02 -0700 From: Brian Ghidinelli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Shipping a vehicle to Germany Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Alex Cagann wrote: > Anyone been through this before? I have a guy in Germany who wants to > purchase a car from me. I am a dealer but have never done this before. Is he offering a cashier's check? Possibly one that is more than the value you're asking and then wants the balance sent to someone in another country? I would be *extremely* leery of any international auto sales. This is a standard nigerian-style scam with forged cashier's checks. I received 10 of these messages when posting a car for sale on Craigslist two months ago. If this isn't the case, sorry for the paranoia! Brian -- We're hiring - web engineer needed to work at motorsport software company building applications for track, autocross and other events! http://www.MotorsportReg.com/news/index.cfm/2006/5/25/Job-Opening-Web-Engineer ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 20:54:24 +0200 (CEST) From: John Firestone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Alex Cagann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: BMW UUC digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Shipping a vehicle to Germany Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Thu, 25 May 2006, Alex Cagann wrote: > Anyone been through this before? I have a guy in Germany who wants to > purchase a car from me. I am a dealer but have never done this before. I did it a few years ago. What do you need to know? -John ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 10:15:06 -0500 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: <E46> Climate control question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I can't find the owner's manual, so pardon this basic question... The climate control panel ('03 325i) has two buttons marked with what seems to be the "recirculation" or "recycle air" symbol (circular arrow). One also has the letter "A" on it. What's the difference in the two? Thanks, Malcolm ---------------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail, including any attached files, may contain confidential and privileged information for the sole use of the intended recipient. Any review, use, distribution, or disclosure by others is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient (or authorized to receive information for the intended recipient), please contact the sender by reply e-mail and delete all copies of this message. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 10:37:18 -0700 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E46> Climate control question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 08:15 AM 5/26/2006, Malcolm Reitz wrote: There are two LEDs on that button; one above the A, and one above the blank circle. A lit = auto recirc There is supposed to be some sort of air quality sensor, and when it detects something coming in that shouldn't (I don't recall exactly what it detects; diesel fumes? cow patties?), it'll automatically switch from fresh to recirc Blank circle lit = recirc Neither lit = fresh Mine is on "A" about 90% of the time. Incidentally, I've never had the moldy smell problem that a number of E46 owners seem to complain about. >I can't find the owner's manual, so pardon this basic question... > >The climate control panel ('03 325i) has two buttons marked with what >seems to be the "recirculation" or "recycle air" symbol (circular >arrow). One also has the letter "A" on it. What's the difference in the >two? > > >Thanks, >Malcolm > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >This e-mail, including any attached files, may contain confidential >and privileged information for the sole use of the intended >recipient. Any review, use, distribution, or disclosure by others >is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient (or >authorized to receive information for the intended recipient), >please contact the sender by reply e-mail and delete all copies of >this message. > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 10:32:29 -0400 From: "Karl Rentler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC List" <[email protected]> Subject: <WOB> test Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Lets see if this is going through... or Not! -- Karl #747 KP http://www.elephantmotorsports.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 15:59:32 -0500 From: "Robert Blakeney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: E34 M30 Overheating Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've reached my total level of incompetence with my 1990 535iA cooling system. The radiator is new (which started this effort) along with the thermostat, expansion tank cap, viscous fan clutch, and upper radiator hose. System has been flushed very well, pressure tested by MPH in Houston and found to hold pressure and be in good shape. Water pump has about 25k on it. Aux fan is working properly with a new radiator sensor switch. Small return hose to expansion tank is clear. I've bled the system several times on flat pavement and with the car on ramps. It runs fine with the temp needle in the middle on the way to work, about 12 miles. I get in the car in the evening on the way home and the temp gauge starts a steady hike all the way to red as the engine heats up. turning on the heater and revving the engine quickly brings it back down. As long as the car is moving the temp will hold in the middle, but any stopping starts the temp back up and I have to hit the heater again. Could the impeller on the water pump be spinning on its shaft? Any thoughts, suggestions? I'm stumped. Robert 1990 535i 160,000 miles ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(9 messages) **********
