The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 137 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: <E36> Heater core flush Re: OT - spammers Re: <e46> Seat adjustments for short people <OT> Suburban Tow Beast Help Re: <OT> Suburban Tow Beast Help Re: <OT> Suburban Tow Beast Help <e36> Question on two throttle cables Re: [SPAM] <e36> Question on two throttle cables Re: <e36> Question on two throttle cables
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 12:54:45 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> Heater core flush Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Is there a good (and hopefully quick) way to flush the heater core once we replace the radiator? My son and I will of course do the block flush at the plug, but I'm not sure if we can put the heater valve in an open state and drain that fluid as well. Car in question is a 1996, 328i -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 14:59:06 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Phil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: OT - spammers Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brian, I figured out the same thing about 2 wks ago. I quit trying to post to the list from my home computer using my Earthlink ISP because everytime I did, it would bounce. I later figured out I can post from my work connection even though I'm using the webmail account for my own home email address (the same Earthlink one that bounces from home). By the way, I did get someone from Earthlink tech support to look at the problem, but he was in India and tried earnestly to help me once he understood the problem but I never got any satisfaction. Cheers, Phil (Now watch this one bounce too from my work connection!) -----Original Message----- >From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: May 4, 2006 12:16 PM >To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> >Subject: Re: [UUC] OT - spammers > >Actually, > >Unfortunately enough for some (Charter Comm. customers >come to mind), there is a blacklist out there that >includes many the IP ranges of ISPs that are dynamic >or otherwise considered as residential IP blocks. >There is absolutely no way to remove yourself from >these lists, other than if you are using the ISP for >commercial business. If you try to email them to >remove you from the list and you are an individual, >you will be blankly ignored. So, to these blacklists, >anyone using their home connection is considered a >spammer! (or potentially so, anyway). > >Brian >95 M3 > > >--- Jon wrote: > >> Gotta love technology. Watch out for Brett he's a >> known SPAMMER! > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around >http://mail.yahoo.com >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 14:43:30 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <e46> Seat adjustments for short people Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Try raising the seat height. It is adjustable on all BMWs I know of since the mid '80s. By design, as the seat goes up, it also articulates forward. Here's a little story (you knew this was coming). My friend Mike always bought whatever cheap transportation he could find that he could keep running and that would get him from A to B. One day he had a mid-life crisis and decided that cars should be fun to drive. He rememebered me saying BMWs were fun to drive so he bought an E30. He's now on his second one - an E30 325iX 5 speed. One day over a beer he mentioned that he'd like to get his wife an automatic, but his wife is short and can't reach the pedals. I said my daughter is short and she can reach the pedals just fine. Then I asked if they tried raising the seat height. They both looked at me with this blank stare, obviously clueless about seat height. So I led them to their car, opened the driver's door and pointed to the arrows on the side of the seat next to the recliner lever. Push the lever down, I said, and adjust the height. They did, and his wife could reach the pedals. It was a great revelation! But yes, it does also put the driver very close to the airbag, so disabling it is probably a good idea. Also, see if the steering column telescopes and move it farther away from the driver. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 14:17:11 -0500 >From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[email protected]> >Subject: <e46> Seat adjustments for short people >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >A good friend has come across a '03 325i that she really likes. The only >problem is that she is quite small and short (5' 0" on a good day) and >she has to work to reach the pedals. The car is an automatic, with power >non-sport seats. Are there any tricks that would allow the seat to move >a bit closer or to the pedals nearer? I realize she may need to get the >airbag switched off if she gets the seat closer. Alternatively, does >anyone have a recommendation for a full bottom-to-back seat cushion or >pad she could sit on? She has this same problem with her current Honda >and so she sits with an orthopedic pillow behind her back in that car. > >Thanks, >Malcolm ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 May 2006 10:49:48 -0500 From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: <OT> Suburban Tow Beast Help Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all, Sorry for the off topic post, but I need some help with my 1996 K2500 4x4 Suburban and I consider this to be the largest bodies of automotive intelligence I know of. Truck has just shy of 130k miles. Whilst driving it down the highway to work Monday to move some stuff, it developed a shake. It started slowly and built up in instensity over 20 seconds or so. The shake got so bad that the coffee in my cup was shooting out of the little opening in the lid like a geyser. Way worse than a blowout. I applied the brakes to pull over and the shake got worse still. I stopped and got out to have a look expecting to find parts spread about or a square wheel or something. Nothing appeared to be amiss. No leaks, nothing loose, all the tires and hubs seemed warm, but not hot, pretty typical. I got back in the truck and started off slowly down the shoulder to turn around and try to get back home. The shake was gone. Completely. I turned around and headed for home. About 2 miles later, the shake came back for 30 seconds or so and went away on its own. Smooth sailing the rest of the way home. I inspected the truck more thoroughly when I got back in town last night and cannot find anything wrong. I did some general checking and then spent some time looking at the front right wheel bearing since I had noticed some roughness and noise while "bearing" to the left on the highway (I crack myself up). There is no play in the bearing or strange noises when turning it by hand. Could a bearing create an intermittent shake? And then appear OK? These are cartridge bearings/hub assembly (not unlike a BMW rear hub since there is a drive axle through them for the 4x4). The bearings are $250 each and not a trivial replacement, so I'm not real interested in doing this for fun. Any other ideas? The tires are 2 years old and seem fine. My plan for tonight is to put the truck in 4WD, put it on jack stands and run it in place to look for noise or shakes. Kinda scary, but I'm not sure what else to do. I'd take it to a pro, but if the shake won't come back on command, I'll be wasting his time and mine. Thanks for any ideas. Regards, Paul Craven 1993 325ic 1999 528iT 1996 Suburban with square wheels (OBMWC - has towed the 325 home from a failure or two and lets it sleep through bad weather) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 May 2006 09:14:39 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <OT> Suburban Tow Beast Help Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> my guess is driveshaft. maybe a bad u-joint or one of the balancing weights have come off. but pull all the wheels and see if everything is bolted up suspension wise too. also there are chevy truck forums where you can find a wealth of info. marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Paul Craven Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 8:50 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] <OT> Suburban Tow Beast Help Hi all, Sorry for the off topic post, but I need some help with my 1996 K2500 4x4 Suburban and I consider this to be the largest bodies of automotive intelligence I know of. Truck has just shy of 130k miles. Whilst driving it down the highway to work Monday to move some stuff, it developed a shake. It started slowly and built up in instensity over 20 seconds or so. The shake got so bad that the coffee in my cup was shooting out of the little opening in the lid like a geyser. Way worse than a blowout. I applied the brakes to pull over and the shake got worse still. I stopped and got out to have a look expecting to find parts spread about or a square wheel or something. Nothing appeared to be amiss. No leaks, nothing loose, all the tires and hubs seemed warm, but not hot, pretty typical. I got back in the truck and started off slowly down the shoulder to turn around and try to get back home. The shake was gone. Completely. I turned around and headed for home. About 2 miles later, the shake came back for 30 seconds or so and went away on its own. Smooth sailing the rest of the way home. I inspected the truck more thoroughly when I got back in town last night and cannot find anything wrong. I did some general checking and then spent some time looking at the front right wheel bearing since I had noticed some roughness and noise while "bearing" to the left on the highway (I crack myself up). There is no play in the bearing or strange noises when turning it by hand. Could a bearing create an intermittent shake? And then appear OK? These are cartridge bearings/hub assembly (not unlike a BMW rear hub since there is a drive axle through them for the 4x4). The bearings are $250 each and not a trivial replacement, so I'm not real interested in doing this for fun. Any other ideas? The tires are 2 years old and seem fine. My plan for tonight is to put the truck in 4WD, put it on jack stands and run it in place to look for noise or shakes. Kinda scary, but I'm not sure what else to do. I'd take it to a pro, but if the shake won't come back on command, I'll be wasting his time and mine. Thanks for any ideas. Regards, Paul Craven 1993 325ic 1999 528iT 1996 Suburban with square wheels (OBMWC - has towed the 325 home from a failure or two and lets it sleep through bad weather) Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 May 2006 09:12:03 -0700 From: "Hogg, Andrew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <OT> Suburban Tow Beast Help Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Simple question and simple suggestion: 1. Does it happen at a given speed or on a given type of road surface. Sounds like a harmonic vibration of sorts that will only happen at a certain speed on a certain type of road. 2. Go recreate it and then stick your head out the window (and have a passenger do the same) and see which wheel is vibrating like crazy. That will either narrow it down to a specific wheel or tell you it is not the wheel and perhaps something in the drive train. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Craven Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 8:50 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] <OT> Suburban Tow Beast Help Hi all, Sorry for the off topic post, but I need some help with my 1996 K2500 4x4 Suburban and I consider this to be the largest bodies of automotive intelligence I know of. Truck has just shy of 130k miles. Whilst driving it down the highway to work Monday to move some stuff, it developed a shake. It started slowly and built up in instensity over 20 seconds or so. The shake got so bad that the coffee in my cup was shooting out of the little opening in the lid like a geyser. Way worse than a blowout. I applied the brakes to pull over and the shake got worse still. I stopped and got out to have a look expecting to find parts spread about or a square wheel or something. Nothing appeared to be amiss. No leaks, nothing loose, all the tires and hubs seemed warm, but not hot, pretty typical. I got back in the truck and started off slowly down the shoulder to turn around and try to get back home. The shake was gone. Completely. I turned around and headed for home. About 2 miles later, the shake came back for 30 seconds or so and went away on its own. Smooth sailing the rest of the way home. I inspected the truck more thoroughly when I got back in town last night and cannot find anything wrong. I did some general checking and then spent some time looking at the front right wheel bearing since I had noticed some roughness and noise while "bearing" to the left on the highway (I crack myself up). There is no play in the bearing or strange noises when turning it by hand. Could a bearing create an intermittent shake? And then appear OK? These are cartridge bearings/hub assembly (not unlike a BMW rear hub since there is a drive axle through them for the 4x4). The bearings are $250 each and not a trivial replacement, so I'm not real interested in doing this for fun. Any other ideas? The tires are 2 years old and seem fine. My plan for tonight is to put the truck in 4WD, put it on jack stands and run it in place to look for noise or shakes. Kinda scary, but I'm not sure what else to do. I'd take it to a pro, but if the shake won't come back on command, I'll be wasting his time and mine. Thanks for any ideas. Regards, Paul Craven 1993 325ic 1999 528iT 1996 Suburban with square wheels (OBMWC - has towed the 325 home from a failure or two and lets it sleep through bad weather) Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 May 2006 10:24:23 -0700 From: "Hogg, Andrew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: <e36> Question on two throttle cables Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 1996 328ic, 105k I had my boot between the MAF and throttle body off last night and see that there are in fact two cables going to the bottom of my throttle body. One for the accelerator and then one below that that goes off to what looks like a little motor in the front right of the engine well (standing in front of the car looking in) which in turn goes off to the ECU. What is that second cable for? And while I'm at it, peering into the throttle body, with the vane fully open, I can see just inside on the left there is a little sensor sticking up. What is that? Thanks, Andrew ------------------------------------ FusionOne Andrew Hogg Director Product Management [EMAIL PROTECTED] 1 Almaden Blvd 11th Floor San Jose, CA 95113 tel: 408-282-1228 mobile: 408-390-0686 ------------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 13:38:02 -0400 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Hogg, Andrew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, uuc Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [SPAM] <e36> Question on two throttle cables Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cruise control and intake temperature. Brett Anderson KMS Hogg, Andrew wrote: > 1996 328ic, 105k > > I had my boot between the MAF and throttle body off last night and see > that there are in fact two cables going to the bottom of my throttle > body. One for the accelerator and then one below that that goes off to > what looks like a little motor in the front right of the engine well > (standing in front of the car looking in) which in turn goes off to the > ECU. > > What is that second cable for? > > And while I'm at it, peering into the throttle body, with the vane fully > open, I can see just inside on the left there is a little sensor > sticking up. What is that? > > Thanks, > > Andrew > > ------------------------------------ > FusionOne > Andrew Hogg > Director Product Management > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > 1 Almaden Blvd > 11th Floor > San Jose, CA 95113 > tel: 408-282-1228 > mobile: 408-390-0686 > ------------------------------------ > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 10:50:43 -0700 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <e36> Question on two throttle cables Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 10:24 AM 5/5/2006, Hogg, Andrew wrote: That should be the cruise control actuator, if your car is so equipped. >1996 328ic, 105k > >I had my boot between the MAF and throttle body off last night and see >that there are in fact two cables going to the bottom of my throttle >body. One for the accelerator and then one below that that goes off to >what looks like a little motor in the front right of the engine well >(standing in front of the car looking in) which in turn goes off to the >ECU. > >What is that second cable for? > >And while I'm at it, peering into the throttle body, with the vane fully >open, I can see just inside on the left there is a little sensor >sticking up. What is that? > >Thanks, > >Andrew > >------------------------------------ >FusionOne >Andrew Hogg >Director Product Management >[EMAIL PROTECTED] >1 Almaden Blvd >11th Floor >San Jose, CA 95113 >tel: 408-282-1228 >mobile: 408-390-0686 >------------------------------------ > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(9 messages) **********
