You do not have to stay down. Just cut a shorter piece of the white nylon or teflon line from the piece with the leak. Keep one end with the metal coupling already attached. To the other end of your new length of tubing, insert it into the metal coupling, then, using needle nose pliers, flare the tubing a little. Or, try reattaching the coupling without flaring. It may flare itself as you tighten the coupling.
The same thing happened to me. I did the repair as noted above, but when I got the replacement tubing from WLL, I saw not reason to install it. That was probably a year ago and I am still ok with my "temporary" repair. Allen -------------------------------------------------- From: "StevieG." <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 9:56 AM To: "Brewtus" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Leak > > > Hi folks - got around to taking the cover off, and found that the > plastic line between the boilers has cracked and was the source of the > leak. This also was why the group head was not getting hot until I > ran water thru it. > > Pics also posted (leak.jpg and line.jpg.) It looks like the boiler > insulation was cut to make room for the line, which was kind of > compressed between the boiler and the outer housing, leading to the > leak. > > I have contacted WLL tech support for a replacement, but will be down > until it arrives. Any substitutions recommended, as well as a better > way to route this line so it doesn't happen again? > > Thanks! > Steve > > > --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
