Richard,  My experience matches Dennis's observation: 1. 7 usually works 
well for most people and 2. rapid successive shots slowly rise in 
temperature.  And perhaps some ancient history might help you get 
comfortable with how you could get to where you want to be without spending 
a lot of money on anything but beans.

Just playing with the offset based on E-mail comments can be a little 
frustrating ... you need to insert some tongue testing into the process. 
You should also be aware that the machines vary slightly from unit to unit 
and will be affected by things you do, such as add insulation or jack up the 
steaming pressure/temperature.  But the factory setting is a good place to 
start.  And keep in mind that the whole offset thing is not an "error; it's 
just an adjustment that is not currently helping you achieve the result you 
want.

Initially, the controller display issue was strongly influenced by 
manufacturing considerations.  The "offset" was especially useful because it 
helped keep the displayed read-out to two digits (e.g.below 100C) ... which 
made the part cheaper to buy, even though the boiler may sometimes be over 
100 C and measuring things in F would be a lot nicer for folks in the US. 
An offset's task was to "translate" the boiler water temperature, which was 
needed in a feedback loop for heater management, into a best estimate of the 
puck temperature ... which is what affects the taste.  To my knowledge, no 
one has developed an actual puck sensor arrangement that is durable enough 
to survive routine kitchen use, ... although some people have placed a 
sensor in the group's water path in order to get closer to the puck.

If you have not changed the "off-set" from the way it was set when your B-x 
arrived from WLL, then the reading on the controller display and what you 
could measure at the puck should be "about" the same (as Dennis reports) and 
the pattern will at least be very stable/consistent from day to day.  If 
your shots taste bitter, you should try dropping your "displayed" 
temperature several degrees, since that is the first suspect in bitter 
shots.  You should decide if the shots then taste less bitter ... and 
perhaps more sour.  Note: You are going to need a lot of testing shots 
because the temperature will vary a little depending on how much time and 
water has flowed since the last heat cycle (red dot on.)

When Abe and I PIDed our supposedly identical machines, we found that they 
needed different offsets ... more cooling occurred on my machine on the way 
from the center of the boiler (where the probe sat) to the face of the puck 
(where we had a PF with a probe) than occurred on his.  As I recall, the 
difference was about 5+ degrees F.  We also used a 5 digit display and no 
offset in order to deal with actual temperatures that were accurate to 
within a tenth of a degree F.  (It does still feel a little weird to say to 
my spouse, "Gee, I think I need to jack this blend up to 212F for decent 
shot.")

At one point, WLL experimented with changing the offset for all the machines 
on hand or in transit to a different number. (Since the B originally was 
only for the US market, WLL could specify a particular value for future 
production.)  So some units went out with an offset of 5 for a period and 
then they went out with 7.  But I don't recall where all that stands at the 
moment.

RE: the Scace:  My understanding from parties involved is that the Scace was 
originally developed in the context of measuring temperatures in big 
commercial (LM) machines with massive boilers, IIRC. There is a highly 
specified protocol for taking the "official" measurement. It involves lots 
of shots and water flow.  The original intent behind developing the unit was 
to assure that the machines used in competition were producing exactly the 
same water temperature at the puck. (No competitor should be disadvantaged 
by having an "off" machine in the practice area or at a competition station. 
Competitors have actually insisted on having the temperatures checked 
because the felt they had been penalized by their unit.)  The Scace has 
always seemed a little "slow" to me (I have one) and Sean built a similar 
puck based unit with a slightly faster probe that we used for our puck 
measurements.

Bottom line here is that since the Scace (and a Fluke)  is an expensive 
addition to your coffee toys, there is a way around it.  You should ignore 
what the actual number on the controller reads and discover what number 
needs to be there to make the coffee taste just the way you like it ... 
consistently ... over several shots ... at varying intervals ... with 
whatever flush you deem appropriate.

When you find that displayed number, then you can begin to play with the 
offset to create a displayed number that looks like the recommendation.  If 
you like Belle at 96 on your readout and Klatch says it is best at 201F 
(93.888 ... C), then change your offset to make the readout say 94 and see 
if that makes other coffees taste pretty good at the roaster's recommended 
setting.  If so, then be like Dennis and quit worrying about that  issue. 
Regards   KittJ


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dennis Keating" <[email protected]>
> 7 is the best setting IMO. I have never strayed from that. I have a
> thermofilter, and the water temp at the puck is spot on whatever is preset
> on your controller. If you flush or use lots water rapidly it should start
> to creep up.(like a pair of cheap undeerwear) - Dennis
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Richard W" <[email protected]>

>
> One reason I wanted to an accurate temperature readout is that many of
> the top coffee roasters, like Paradise and Intelligentsia, are now
> starting to recommend different brew tempertures for different
> espresso blends that they offer. 


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