I think you’ll find the consensus of advice to be “Don’t do it.”
The hull to deck joint and toe rail on the older C&Cs is a pretty well engineered setup that will last a lifetime. There are several hundred of us on the list, and I suspect the number who have had leaks in the toe rail or hull to deck join is near single digits. Basically the joint (from bottom to top) is as follows: Inward facing flange on the hull, layer of butyl, rubber rub rail riveted to the hull flange, another layer of butyl, the deck, another layer of butyl, the toe rail, then it is all through bolted with stainless oval head machine screws. My 25 has screws every 6” (IIRC) and my 38 is bolted every 4”. Removing the bolts and toe rail can possibly compromise every layer of the seal. If you have an owners’ manual (or buy one from the Photo Album website) you can see a cross section of the joint. In almost all cases the recommended fix for a leak (which seem to mostly be around the machine screws) is to tighten the through bolts about ½ to a full turn, and apply Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure to the inside edge of the toe rail to deck joint. Tightening the bolts is a two man job – the person on top holds the screw in place so it does not turn (which breaks the seal of the butyl and can result in a leak) while the person below tightens the nut a bit. Be careful not to overtighten the nut because you can squeeze all of the butyl out of the joint. Rick Brass Imzadi C&C 38 mk2 #47 la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 #225 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of James Hesketh via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, November 5, 2019 7:52 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: James Hesketh <jameshesk...@gmail.com> Subject: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can tie off the headsail halyard to it. Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin? TIA Jim Hesketh Whisper C&C 26 Miami, FL
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