This link will take you (should take you?) to a drawing of the C&C toe rail design by 1988 or so:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a9bOV0skefEUTFpVkv51NwlYdrABb80JetHmGGeftc-PldDJ8aKaUXnUIPBbrBcvKjmlAtasRO2pjwvuFYHGYx4faUPYxLb6qQKvCVHCGyOcywF-TyJZ-otqWTYyRzMHyhW1gk_lBUwtLo5fCWneDsjWlqD6CRnJeEtCCFBBWfZPJrW3jkKa9XDbHwUBggCBdoTwe-RNvX66kvPmOqKceLDKSV_EP5XOhOWoQXeUCz-0ScJ-4Gp1sjozsS9lz5eAhF-tD90yYrbGwq0_6XS4DWPtJt0uznrt_3tCzJeAawhBbv0Djih947M8tI9C8dQXyqBS8EgDMI4jNvyNOZall4nFT2yDac4lhxpMginaj4poGEBeEP7_fGdoX0b-5chgfu3vt8jKOjSZ-L7I4qmez7BPkMWMhvXErtwpQihxQBb7x072jjn6Qg5xoNwTqVhxAmQuvxDP7JsD9rudEEI4256eYKGqS8Xn9iFR15-TC5nEB9NKfDGpEP4dp56zvKKmjuyqLHjVI1XSV7MZ-0IPVevvkKoVeWhHOGo-9gj4mCrG5_vce1-l-5yDPNn_uqlobzzW4rvkBtpTRx7sopLHxAuN-eBIFRL-XK9Nbc5KiAeE1v7wGxD-yXd_Gq5SawAeb0MYBGaStF_TMeW6Ve6bdGP1dMUCJf0si24nNuPdBYqU5MJSH5LanQ=w805-h1057-no I realise the older boats are a bit different as the Rub Rail is part of the 'sandwich' in the older ones. Ken H. On Tue, 5 Nov 2019 at 14:34, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I think you’ll find the consensus of advice to be “Don’t do it.” > > > > The hull to deck joint and toe rail on the older C&Cs is a pretty well > engineered setup that will last a lifetime. There are several hundred of > us on the list, and I suspect the number who have had leaks in the toe rail > or hull to deck join is near single digits. > > > > Basically the joint (from bottom to top) is as follows: Inward facing > flange on the hull, layer of butyl, rubber rub rail riveted to the hull > flange, another layer of butyl, the deck, another layer of butyl, the toe > rail, then it is all through bolted with stainless oval head machine > screws. My 25 has screws every 6” (IIRC) and my 38 is bolted every 4”. > Removing the bolts and toe rail can possibly compromise every layer of the > seal. > > > > If you have an owners’ manual (or buy one from the Photo Album website) > you can see a cross section of the joint. > > > > In almost all cases the recommended fix for a leak (which seem to mostly > be around the machine screws) is to tighten the through bolts about ½ to a > full turn, and apply Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure to the inside > edge of the toe rail to deck joint. > > > > Tightening the bolts is a two man job – the person on top holds the screw > in place so it does not turn (which breaks the seal of the butyl and can > result in a leak) while the person below tightens the nut a bit. Be careful > not to overtighten the nut because you can squeeze all of the butyl out of > the joint. > > > > Rick Brass > > Imzadi C&C 38 mk2 #47 > > la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 #225 > > Washington, NC > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *James > Hesketh via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 5, 2019 7:52 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* James Hesketh <jameshesk...@gmail.com> > *Subject:* Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing > > > > I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will > also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can > tie off the headsail halyard to it. > > > > Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin? > > > > TIA > > Jim Hesketh > > Whisper C&C 26 > > Miami, FL > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
