Thank you all for the helpful responses.

I did have extensive leaking from under the toerail when first getting the
boat 5 years ago and mostly stopped it by running a bead of 5200 around the
inner perimeter of the rail and figured that was a temporary fix. That 5200
had now degraded and is cracking, I'm assuming due to UV exposure.

My boat has been a Florida boat since new and I'm guessing the heat has had
an affect on the deck/hull seal -- the original butyl sealant is weeping
out and dripping down onto the inner hull (big mess); it would be an
impossible job to remove the deck to replace. Don't know why I never
thought to check the bolt tightness before it being mentioned in your
replies; they are almost all finger-loose, I'm assuming because of the
settling of the deck due to the loss of the original deck/hull sealant. I
haven't seen any weeping of the sealant between the toerail and deck

I'm currently prepping the boat for deck/cabin/cockpit painting and have
all deck hardware removed and will re-bed when refitting -- now is the time
to tackle this.

I'm thinking now my options are to go with my original plan of total R&R of
the rail -- or to pull the bolts a few at a time, work some fresh butyl
into the hole and screw the bolt back in through the sealant, tighten them
properly, and back that up with another bead of calk on the deck/rail if
needed (and redo that every few years as needed).

Thoughts . . .?

Last year I rebuilt the kingpost support in the bilge, reinforced the
bulkheads for the chain plates and did some deck repair where the chain
plates went through, did some glass/gelcoat work around the fore hatch
where it had deformed due to the mast step setteling, made a new main hatch
slider and cockpit locker rails. I enjoy bringing her back to shape, but I
do enjoy sailing more than working on her. I figure these projects will be
good for another few decades.

Thanks again,
Jim

On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 3:21 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This link will take you (should take you?) to a drawing of the C&C toe
> rail design by 1988 or so:
>
>
> https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a9bOV0skefEUTFpVkv51NwlYdrABb80JetHmGGeftc-PldDJ8aKaUXnUIPBbrBcvKjmlAtasRO2pjwvuFYHGYx4faUPYxLb6qQKvCVHCGyOcywF-TyJZ-otqWTYyRzMHyhW1gk_lBUwtLo5fCWneDsjWlqD6CRnJeEtCCFBBWfZPJrW3jkKa9XDbHwUBggCBdoTwe-RNvX66kvPmOqKceLDKSV_EP5XOhOWoQXeUCz-0ScJ-4Gp1sjozsS9lz5eAhF-tD90yYrbGwq0_6XS4DWPtJt0uznrt_3tCzJeAawhBbv0Djih947M8tI9C8dQXyqBS8EgDMI4jNvyNOZall4nFT2yDac4lhxpMginaj4poGEBeEP7_fGdoX0b-5chgfu3vt8jKOjSZ-L7I4qmez7BPkMWMhvXErtwpQihxQBb7x072jjn6Qg5xoNwTqVhxAmQuvxDP7JsD9rudEEI4256eYKGqS8Xn9iFR15-TC5nEB9NKfDGpEP4dp56zvKKmjuyqLHjVI1XSV7MZ-0IPVevvkKoVeWhHOGo-9gj4mCrG5_vce1-l-5yDPNn_uqlobzzW4rvkBtpTRx7sopLHxAuN-eBIFRL-XK9Nbc5KiAeE1v7wGxD-yXd_Gq5SawAeb0MYBGaStF_TMeW6Ve6bdGP1dMUCJf0si24nNuPdBYqU5MJSH5LanQ=w805-h1057-no
>
> I realise the older boats are a bit different as the Rub Rail is part of
> the 'sandwich' in the older ones.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Tue, 5 Nov 2019 at 14:34, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I think you’ll find the consensus of advice to be “Don’t do it.”
>>
>>
>>
>> The hull to deck joint and toe rail on the older C&Cs is a pretty well
>> engineered setup that will last a lifetime. There are several  hundred of
>> us on the list, and I suspect the number who have had leaks in the toe rail
>> or hull to deck join is near single digits.
>>
>>
>>
>> Basically the joint (from bottom to  top) is as follows: Inward facing
>> flange on the hull, layer of butyl, rubber rub rail riveted to the hull
>> flange, another layer of butyl, the deck, another layer of butyl, the toe
>> rail, then it is all through bolted with stainless oval head machine
>> screws. My 25 has screws every 6” (IIRC) and my 38 is bolted every 4”.
>> Removing the bolts and toe rail can possibly compromise every layer of the
>> seal.
>>
>>
>>
>> If you have an owners’ manual (or buy one from the Photo Album website)
>> you can see a cross section of the joint.
>>
>>
>>
>> In almost all cases the recommended fix for a leak (which seem to mostly
>> be around the machine screws) is to tighten the through bolts about ½ to a
>> full turn, and apply Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure to the inside
>> edge of the toe rail to deck joint.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tightening the bolts is a two man job – the person on top holds the screw
>> in place so it does not turn (which breaks the seal of the butyl and can
>> result in a leak) while the person below tightens the nut a bit. Be careful
>> not to overtighten the nut because you can squeeze all of the butyl out of
>> the joint.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
>>
>> la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *James
>> Hesketh via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 5, 2019 7:52 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* James Hesketh <jameshesk...@gmail.com>
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will
>> also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can
>> tie off the headsail halyard to it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin?
>>
>>
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Jim Hesketh
>>
>> Whisper C&C 26
>>
>> Miami, FL
>> _______________________________________________
>>
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