Plenty of detail on keel work here- mine and others. https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/c-33-mk-ii-keel-and-mast-step-work.html?m=1
I think any sense epoxy/glass would be fine to replace the wedges. You can also use ‘tack tape’ reversed to protect the bolts. One advantage of this vs wax is you can build layers for clearance. Good luck with the project! Dave 33-2 (same dna as the 35-3) Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:10 PM, David Swensen <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > Fellow listers, > I have moved Freya to my backyard and started work on the keel hull joint. > She has on the hard for about 4 weeks. I opened up thekeel hull joint and > have raised the hull a few inches. The forward bolt is still draining ( and > it smells?). > The most aft bolt is the one that was leaking enough to set off my bilge pump > every 4 minutes. The inside of the hull was compressed under the washers on > this bolt. I think this will need to be ground out and filled > I have added a link to some pictures. > > https://photos.app.goo.gl/uoZHWJbR2jH8Wb6F6 > > My questions: > > I cannot lift the hull entirely off of the keel. Any suggestions on how to > repair the compressed area without epoxy bonding to the bolt? I was > planning on a 1/2 inch G10 backing plate before putting the washers on. > > It looks like I will need to excavate the space under the mast step. It feels > and sounds solid, but apparently there is water inside, because it is still > draining. What is the best material to fill this space? > > Two of the middle bolts had aluminum wedges under the washers because of the > angle of the keel sump. One was corroded to dust. There was not much left of > the other. Can I use G10 to replace these, or should I have them fabricated > from stainless steel?. > > One of the pictures shows the placement of the jackstands. I am open to input > on their placement. Is it sufficient to hold the hull for an extended time? > > Thanks for any input. > > David Swensen > Freya 35 MK 3 > On the Hard in Beverly, MA
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