I had no voids and I did not separate the hull and keel, but this would have 
made excavating the filled part much easier, in addition to being able to 
address the keel to hull joint.  
I would reassemble prior to adding any compression posts and refilling the keel 
void of course.  Wrap the joint at the end after torquing. 
Dave 
33-2 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:31 PM, ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu> wrote:
> 
> 
> You should separate the boat from the keel. When I had mine done, there was a 
> huge void around the forward keel bolt. The yard hosed out the hole from 
> underneath, and it smelled really bad. Then they ground the stub and the top 
> of the keel, epoxied the keel back onto the stub and filled the void with 
> about a gallon of epoxy. I don't know what order they did that. Then they 
> epoxied fiberglass tape along the smile, and sanded everything smooth.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 11:11 AM David Swensen via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Fellow listers,
>> I have moved Freya to my backyard and started work on the keel hull joint. 
>> She has on the hard for about 4 weeks. I opened up thekeel hull joint and 
>> have raised the hull a few inches.   The forward bolt is still draining ( 
>> and it smells?). 
>> The most aft bolt is the one that was leaking enough to set off my bilge 
>> pump every 4 minutes. The inside of the hull was compressed under the 
>> washers on this bolt. I think this will need to be ground out and filled
>> I have added a link to some pictures.
>> 
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/uoZHWJbR2jH8Wb6F6   
>> 
>> My questions:
>> 
>> I cannot lift the hull entirely off of the keel. Any suggestions on how to 
>> repair the compressed area without epoxy bonding to the  bolt?  I was 
>> planning on a 1/2 inch G10 backing plate before putting  the washers on.
>> 
>> It looks like I will need to excavate the space under the mast step. It 
>> feels and sounds solid, but apparently there is water inside, because it is 
>> still draining.  What is the best material to fill this space? 
>> 
>> Two of the middle bolts had aluminum wedges under the washers because of the 
>> angle of the keel sump. One was corroded to dust. There was not much left of 
>> the other. Can I use G10 to replace these, or should I have them fabricated 
>> from stainless steel?.
>> 
>> One of the pictures shows the placement of the jackstands. I am open to 
>> input on their placement. Is it sufficient to hold the hull for an extended 
>> time?
>> 
>> Thanks for any input. 
>> 
>> David Swensen
>> Freya   35 MK 3
>> On the Hard in Beverly, MA
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