I should be clearer - By epoxy glass I mean a dense layup vs filled putty.  
That said I don’t know the deflection data For each material  etc etc etc  but 
I do know that my 33-2 wedges are not used on all the bolts and where not, the 
compression bears on the layup via a fender washer.  This suggests the layup 
adequately resists compression, and that the AL wedges are there as wedges only 
to address the slope of the bilge.
Filled putty?  Agree completely, it’s the wrong stuff. 

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 27, 2020, at 9:03 PM, Josh Muckley <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> 
> Alan, 
> 
> Epoxy and glass is a bit different than G10 (which is technically fiberglass 
> and epoxy.)  The rated compression and deflection strength are competitive 
> with any other material.  Especially when you get to the 1/2 inch thickness.
> 
> No?
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>> On Thu, Aug 27, 2020, 18:35 ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <[email protected]> 
>> wrote:
>> Don't use epoxy/glass to replace the wedges. There's tremendous pressure on 
>> them when the keep bolts are tightened, and they won't hold up. Have them 
>> made out of stainless.
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 2:31 PM Dave S via CnC-List <[email protected]> 
>>> wrote:
>>> Plenty of detail on keel work here- mine and others.  
>>> 
>>> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/c-33-mk-ii-keel-and-mast-step-work.html?m=1
>>> 
>>> I think any sense epoxy/glass would be fine to replace the wedges.  
>>> 
>>> You can also use ‘tack tape’ reversed to protect the bolts.  One advantage 
>>> of this vs  wax is you can build layers for clearance.  
>>> 
>>> Good luck with the project!
>>> 
>>> Dave 
>>> 33-2 (same dna as the 35-3)
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>>> On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:10 PM, David Swensen <[email protected]> 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Fellow listers,
>>>> I have moved Freya to my backyard and started work on the keel hull joint. 
>>>> She has on the hard for about 4 weeks. I opened up thekeel hull joint and 
>>>> have raised the hull a few inches.   The forward bolt is still draining ( 
>>>> and it smells?). 
>>>> The most aft bolt is the one that was leaking enough to set off my bilge 
>>>> pump every 4 minutes. The inside of the hull was compressed under the 
>>>> washers on this bolt. I think this will need to be ground out and filled
>>>> I have added a link to some pictures.
>>>> 
>>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/uoZHWJbR2jH8Wb6F6   
>>>> 
>>>> My questions:
>>>> 
>>>> I cannot lift the hull entirely off of the keel. Any suggestions on how to 
>>>> repair the compressed area without epoxy bonding to the  bolt?  I was 
>>>> planning on a 1/2 inch G10 backing plate before putting  the washers on.
>>>> 
>>>> It looks like I will need to excavate the space under the mast step. It 
>>>> feels and sounds solid, but apparently there is water inside, because it 
>>>> is still draining.  What is the best material to fill this space? 
>>>> 
>>>> Two of the middle bolts had aluminum wedges under the washers because of 
>>>> the angle of the keel sump. One was corroded to dust. There was not much 
>>>> left of the other. Can I use G10 to replace these, or should I have them 
>>>> fabricated from stainless steel?.
>>>> 
>>>> One of the pictures shows the placement of the jackstands. I am open to 
>>>> input on their placement. Is it sufficient to hold the hull for an 
>>>> extended time?
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks for any input. 
>>>> 
>>>> David Swensen
>>>> Freya   35 MK 3
>>>> On the Hard in Beverly, MA
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