Hi David,

I'm still working on the rebuild of the mast step on our 33-2, which has a lot 
of similarities with your boat. The grid that support the mast is a bit 
different and your hull is balsa core, but overall, it is a C&C of the same era.
I don't want to be alarmist, but a friend with a 35-3 found that previous 
grounding and years of hard racing led to a wet sagging mast step, a wet and 
compressed aft bolt area (also filled with light degraded putty, and that the 
balsa core surrounding the keel area was also wet...Like you at some point his 
boat was taking a lot of water and he had to haul it out in a hurry. Scary 
story. A yard did the repair and it was over 10k$.

I would strongly suggest that you look at Dave Syer blog that is also active on 
this list : cncwindstar.blogspot.com

Look fot the page on Keel and mast step work. It has a lot of good info and the 
repair process is fairly detailed. But i will do my best to explain what i have 
done with my imperfect English...

I have pretty much copy what Dave has done to his boat, i opened the mast step 
to excavate the pink/moldy putty that was moist / wet and had fractured. the 
adhesion with the FG skin of the keel sump was compromised and the mast step 
had sagged over time. The PO had added glass and put an aluminum plate/spacer 
to jack the mast to its original height, but it was not fixing the structural 
issue.
I then built a compression post for the forward bolt,  like Dave did, and 
filled the space with about 16 gallons of ISO polyester resin (used mold 
released paste wax on the the 2nd keel bolt)  a lot of chop glass, milled glass 
fiber of different sizes, cabosil... And again,  like Dave, i reinforced the 
structure with UD 9 oz Carbon laminated with epoxy resin. Note that pourring 
large volume of resin generates tes a lot of heat and can be dangerous. i tried 
to do the pours between 5 and 10 Celsius. mthe resin allowed me to do it step 
by step and i had like 4-6 days between pours without having to prep the 
surface. sometimes i had what i think are heat generated or stress relief 
smalls cracks near the exterior perimeter. I filled them with lightly thicked 
or neat resin before i poured my next batch. Some have suggested other stuff 
like concrete but i wanted to stick with poly resin to keep  the overall weith 
close to the design.

I also had corroded aluminum backing plates in the sump that i replaced with 
1/2 inch stainless steel. I also used G-10 as backing plate and in my amateur 
opinion 1/2 inch G10 bedded in thicked époxy with waxed paper to have a flat 
solid foundation, then remove, clean and seal with high grade butyl.  That with 
a good SS washer should be plenty strong.

In the end, i am more than happy to have remove all the crappy wet and smelly 
putty that was there and that was not properly sealed from factory. Water from 
the mast found its way and up here the freezing cycles dit the rest. i am now 
confident that my boat is  way more solid and it was worht it since we want to 
keep this boat and sail it for many years to come. we know have a the new boat 
smell of fresh resin, no more rotten materials on my boat!

I want to thank Dave Syer that was a huge technical and sometimes even my 
emotional support trough this projetc.

Hope that helps, best of luck.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 1987 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc







________________________________
De : CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> de la part de David Swensen via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Envoyé : 27 août 2020 14:10
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc : David Swensen <ka123dswense...@gmail.com>
Objet : Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3



Fellow listers,
I have moved Freya to my backyard and started work on the keel hull joint. She 
has on the hard for about 4 weeks. I opened up thekeel hull joint and have 
raised the hull a few inches.   The forward bolt is still draining ( and it 
smells?).
The most aft bolt is the one that was leaking enough to set off my bilge pump 
every 4 minutes. The inside of the hull was compressed under the washers on 
this bolt. I think this will need to be ground out and filled
I have added a link to some pictures.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uoZHWJbR2jH8Wb6F6

My questions:

I cannot lift the hull entirely off of the keel. Any suggestions on how to 
repair the compressed area without epoxy bonding to the  bolt?  I was planning 
on a 1/2 inch G10 backing plate before putting  the washers on.

It looks like I will need to excavate the space under the mast step. It feels 
and sounds solid, but apparently there is water inside, because it is still 
draining.  What is the best material to fill this space?

Two of the middle bolts had aluminum wedges under the washers because of the 
angle of the keel sump. One was corroded to dust. There was not much left of 
the other. Can I use G10 to replace these, or should I have them fabricated 
from stainless steel?.

One of the pictures shows the placement of the jackstands. I am open to input 
on their placement. Is it sufficient to hold the hull for an extended time?

Thanks for any input.

David Swensen
Freya   35 MK 3
On the Hard in Beverly, MA
_______________________________________________

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