> > >>Looking for a source? ;-) > >LOL! > >If I were going to be washing boards, I'd use something designed for that >purpose.
heheh humour is always more impressive than processing power, thank Gawd :) Actually, I have 3 or four different kinds of electrical contact cleaner spray kicking around the shop, for cleaning hard-to-reach relay contacts and things like that, but most of these leave an oily residue which winds up attracting more dust. Go figure. I've never come across any product designed for washing boards, but I know that phenolic and epoxy board manufacturers use various cleaning solvents; I wouldn't be surprised if someone is marketing a Special Solution for this purpose. I just trust a weak detergent-and-water solution, and give it lots of time to dry, and it really does seem to improve things. I kid you not! Maybe the isolation is improved (between traces on the board, for instance), and maybe the removal of all that insulating fuzz allows better cooling, I don't know really. I like to think of it as "magic". If you have an old machine stripped down, and the boards are free, and you plan to use it for a long time, I'd recommend washing the boards, unless the board has a shielded RF cage on it or something like that. If you have a removeable processor chip, by all means remove it first if you like. Another kinky tip from the bench: when I replace a battery (like the PRAM battery for instance, but this applies to a battery in any device), I like to coat the terminals with a VERY thin layer of petroleum jelly. This actually decreases the resistance, and makes for better contact. It also helps prevent corrosion in the event of a leaky battery. Just be very stingy with it, as oils tend to "creep" all over the place. Usually ok in a battery holder, though, as it couldn't go far anyway. You don't have to believe me; try it in a cheap flashlight first, and if you've been paying attention to battery life, you may notice a slight improvement. NASA made a practice of protecting exposed electrical contacts in this way during the early days of the space program, in spite of the product not being designed for the purpose. I don't know of any way to restore the original colour in classic cabinets, and my own SE/30 keyboard has I think 3 distinct shades now (the keys, the case, and the part of the case that once had a sticker on it ). I've had some success with Liquid Vim, in cleaning up cabinets that have never been cleaned (or at least looked like it). I think the bleach in it helps. Scrubbing in a circular motion with a nailbrush or toothbrush really helps on textured surfaces, and the Vim washes off with water. Never damaged anything with this procedure. The only really scary part of a thorough cleaning operation, is discovering what ends up around the keys in a keyboard. Yechhh. Dominus Vobiscum, Stuart :) -- Compact Macs is sponsored by <http://lowendmac.com/>. Support Low End Mac <http://lowendmac.com/lists/support.html> Compact Macs list info: <http://lowendmac.com/lists/compact.shtml> The FAQ: <http://macfaq.org/> --> AOL users, remove "mailto:"; Send list messages to: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To unsubscribe, email: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> For digest mode, email: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subscription questions: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Archive:<http://www.mail-archive.com/compact.macs%40mail.maclaunch.com/> --------------------------------------------------------------- >The Think Different Store http://www.ThinkDifferentStore.com ---------------------------------------------------------------
