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Euphorian spotted this on the Guardian Unlimited site and thought you should see it.

To see this story with its related links on the Guardian Unlimited site, go to 
http://www.guardian.co.uk

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Chris MacGreal @ Bethlehem
Monday December 23 2002
The Guardian


Once again, there is no room at the Bethlehem Inn. Two thousand years on, the hotel 
has been commandeered by Israeli soldiers, and just about every other lodging in 
Christ's hometown will be closed on his birthday for lack of business.

For the first time in living memory there is no Christmas tree on Manger Square. Even 
the priests at the Church of the Nativity - the 4th-century basilica said to be built 
around the cave where Jesus was born - are down on the festivities at the end of a 
year that has seen Israeli tanks roll into the town five times and a 39-day army siege 
of the church itself. Now the ancient town is enduring a month-long curfew with no 
certainty the Israeli military will lift it for midnight mass on Christmas eve. Yet 
the services will go on, in no small part because of the politics of religion.

The Greek Orthodox, the Armenians and the Franciscans all command control of a share 
of the Church of the Nativity under a rights-of-possession agreement drawn up by the 
Turks in 1757, when Bethlehem fell in the orbit of the Ottoman empire. It is known as 
the "status quo". Each church is allocated parts of the building, and specified time 
for services. None dares alter the schedule for fear of undermining the agreement and 
feeding the intense rivalries that have reduced priests to fisticuffs over territorial 
infringements during the annual cleaning.

But this year there will be no parade of boy scouts, choirs in the square or the 
sometimes raucous party ahead of the service. There will be no Yasser Arafat either, 
or his Christian wife to light the Christmas tree. The Israelis have banned the 
Palestinian leader from attending midnight mass for the second year running.

The Franciscan parish priest, Amjad Sabbara, will stick to the annual theme of 
children as he leads prayers during the first hours of Christmas day. But rather than 
celebrating birth, he plans to reflect on death - particularly the sickening reality 
that, just as in Jesus's time, children are being killed by forces indifferent to 
their age or innocence. The latest victim is an 11-year-old girl leaning out of a 
window to watch the funeral procession of another child.

Father Sabbara was among the hundreds of people trapped in the Church of the Nativity 
during the Israeli siege in April and May. That was the busiest the church has been in 
a couple of years, with Palestinian men sheltering in the grotto built around the cave 
of Christ's birth. The Franciscan priest predicts a smaller turnout than that for 
Christmas. Just 400 of the 2,000 once-prized tickets for seats at midnight mass have 
been taken. So most of Bethlehem's hotels have closed and those few that have stayed 
open say they have no bookings.

Over the past month of perpetual curfew, lifted for just a few hours each week, 
Bethlehem has endured the punishment favoured by the Israelis against the people they 
rule. The army is largely of the view that Palestinians are either terrorists or 
terrorist sympathisers, so there's no reason why they shouldn't all suffer for the 
actions of a few.

But there is a deeper and longer crisis. When Bethlehem's mayor, Hanna Nasser, can 
find a tourist, he offers chapter and verse on what the past two years of intifada and 
periodic occupation have done to the town's economy. Bethlehem is dying, he says. For 
years, it has relied on tourism to survive. Now not a single one of the hundreds of 
gift shops is open to offer their bizarre mix of nativity scenes alongside T-shirts 
sporting the Israeli army logo. Seven out of 10 residents are unemployed. Average 
income, at about £1 a day, is just a quarter of what it was three years ago. The 
capital of Christmas, as the mayor puts it, is in no mood to celebrate.

Copyright Guardian Newspapers Limited

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