Hi Rob,
Thanks for the good advice.
Yep... they're checked. It seems our problem this time was that that prop
change bracket got slightly twisted so that its elbow began rubbing on the
plate too! The tell tale sign was that the slight grinding noise(whilst turning
the prop by hand) stopped as we also coarsened the prop as it slowly turned.
Anyway hopefully all's well now...lesson learned and a painless fix.
Cheers Brian M
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Thompson
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:37 AM
Subject: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks
Have you checked that the bearings (in the prop change lever that
contacts the prop brake plate) are contacting the plate surface at exactly the
same time?
All three dimonas that Nigel and I did up were way out and the only
way to adjust them was to slightly elongate the 4 holes that bolt the prop
change bracket and the oil filler together. This meant the change mechanism
could be adjusted whilst the 4 bolts were loose.
When one bearing contacts before the other it puts a significant uneven
load on the spinning plate which could be responsible for some of these
failures.
Rob
PO Box 129,
Lawson, NSW, 2783.
mobile 0429 493828
.............................................
--- On Tue, 27/1/09, Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]> wrote:
From: Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] Dimona Master Cylinder
To: [email protected]
Received: Tuesday, 27 January, 2009, 12:48 AM
Thanks Nigel for brake details.
Enc are 2 parts which we have had trouble with in h36
(i) is the plate at front of prop. In talking to Eric Weston he has
not seen it before but would seem it is now the weak point of the system since
the rods have been increased from 6mm to 8mm at last service. It is easy to
replace but you need to talk to Eric for the correct setup.
(ii) is the plate at front where the wires connect to. Interesting I
noticed recently tension was regularly changing - it had a crack and was
getting worse. I took it to local aircraft welder and he did his usual perfect
job but identified the crack starts from the inner corner. He added extra weld
to increase radius of corner and says that will fix it.
Originally people thought I had the wires too slack then think I went
to other extreme. I painted bracket white which shows up a crack early. Also
white is good for engine mounts Even Yellow will mask the brown colour of a
crack.
(JV yes I will get in note on same -both happened last week!! and
each was fixed within 48 hours)
Another is I have had trouble with airswitch (in the old Bergfalke
days they would last 10 years) so now I run the VDO hour meter from a
microswitch on the throttle. It is great in that if you taxi slow then you do
not pay but if you taxi fast then pay.
With our Sauer we recently found they fitted the wrong high speed
jets in the bings. Now we have gone one size bigger than standard (sauer
supplied) and now it is the coolest aircooled engine I have ever flown and we
have digital CHT with shock cooling. The latent heat of vaporisation really
does work and cools engine. Also now on full power the EGT is low but if you
cut throttle back 2 or 3 cm it peaks. The oil cooler on underside cowl like
G109B works much better than on top of engine. I am so impressed with it that
I am adding same to Motorfalke.
I am also impressed with the Blue oil and petrol hose that John Viney
recommends - got mine from Sydney at about $22/m
Ian M
2009/1/26 Nigel Baker <[email protected]>
Hi All.
Welcome to Ian Patching who is now endorsed on type and thus a
Dimona User and now on this list.
I am answering a question from Macca and Brian at Byron. Putting it
on the list means it is in the archive for future reference. I checked the Air
Spruce site and it has changed since I last visited. The pics have changed but
I make the Master Cylinder to be the 10-5. Previously the image showed the
brake valve lever etc but now it is just indicative but I think this is the
item required going by the description and the pic. E.G. the only thing missing
in the pic is the brake valve but it is defined in the description.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_mbrakecyl.php
Note the unit comes fitted with seals suitable for "aircraft
hydraulic fluid" NOT "car brake fluid"
You need to change the O'Rings to run car brake fluid if that is
what your aircraft is using.
Hope this is of help.
Cheers.
Nige.
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