Photo tomorrow promise  Ian M

2009/2/7 John Mason <[email protected]>

>  Hey Ian. How'd you go with that picture? Or has it been too wet?
> It's been too bloody hot down here. 46.5 in the shade as I speak...
>
> John Mason
> VH-GJD
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]>
> *To:* [email protected]
> *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2009 10:34 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks
>
> oops old and slow - tomorrow but it is great!!!!  It is a 5cm peg above
> handle with a flag which folds down when you change prop but folds up when
> you wish to feather.  Now you bring together 2 flat surfaces and it just
> changes like an automatic trans car!!!
>
> IM
>
> 2009/1/30 Nigel Baker <[email protected]>
>
>>  G'day Ian.
>> I think you missed the enquiry there. John M wanted a picture of the mod
>> for the stop on the pitch change mecahnism I reckon. In fact I want to see
>> it too.
>> Cheers.
>> Nige.
>>
>>
>>
>>  ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]>
>> *To:* [email protected]
>>   *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2009 9:33 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks
>>
>> Here is a poor photo - you can pick it by a very slight change in revs on
>> takeoff and as well by turning the blade around a bit and it does not return
>> all the way to climb by itself  Remember our prop has 8mmrods instead of
>> original 6mm
>>
>> Ian M
>>
>>
>>
>> 2009/1/30 John Mason <[email protected]>
>>
>>>  Ian,
>>>
>>> I would be very interested in seeing a picture of that if you ever get a
>>> chance!
>>>
>>> John Mason
>>> VH - GJD
>>>
>>>  ----- Original Message -----
>>> *From:* Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]>
>>> *To:* [email protected]
>>>   *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2009 8:25 PM
>>> *Subject:* Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks
>>>
>>> I find the best way now to check bearings (as I am blind these days) put
>>> tension on the arm and feel top and bottom bearings to make sure they make
>>> contact at the same time.
>>>
>>> I have a stop for the handle which I must take a photo of and all agree
>>> is is great and makes prop change real easy !00% success every time even for
>>> the dummies can do it
>>>
>>> Ian M
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 2009/1/29 Brian Marshall <[email protected]>
>>>
>>>>  Hi Rob,
>>>> Thanks for the good advice.
>>>> Yep... they're checked. It seems our problem this time  was that that
>>>> prop change bracket got slightly twisted so that its elbow began rubbing on
>>>> the plate too! The tell tale sign was that the slight grinding noise(whilst
>>>> turning the prop by hand) stopped as we also coarsened the prop as it 
>>>> slowly
>>>> turned. Anyway hopefully all's well now...lesson learned and a painless 
>>>> fix.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers Brian M
>>>>
>>>>  ----- Original Message -----
>>>> *From:* Rob Thompson <[email protected]>
>>>> *To:* [email protected]
>>>>   *Sent:* Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:37 AM
>>>> *Subject:* [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks
>>>>
>>>>   Have you checked that the bearings (in the prop change lever that
>>>> contacts the prop brake plate) are contacting the plate surface at exactly
>>>> the same time?
>>>> All three dimonas that Nigel and I did up  were way out  and the only
>>>> way to adjust them was to slightly elongate the 4 holes that bolt the prop
>>>> change bracket and the oil filler together. This meant the change mechanism
>>>> could be adjusted whilst the 4 bolts were loose.
>>>> When one bearing contacts before the other it puts a significant uneven
>>>> load on the spinning plate which could be responsible for some of these
>>>> failures.
>>>> Rob
>>>>
>>>> PO Box 129,
>>>> Lawson, NSW, 2783.
>>>> mobile 0429 493828
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> .............................................
>>>>
>>>> --- On *Tue, 27/1/09, Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]>* wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> From: Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]>
>>>> Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] Dimona Master Cylinder
>>>> To: [email protected]
>>>> Received: Tuesday, 27 January, 2009, 12:48 AM
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Nigel for brake details.
>>>>
>>>> Enc are 2 parts which we have had trouble with in h36
>>>>
>>>> (i) is the plate at front of prop.  In talking to Eric Weston he has not
>>>> seen it before but would seem it is now the weak point of the system since
>>>> the rods have been increased from 6mm to 8mm at last service.  It is easy 
>>>> to
>>>> replace but you need to talk to Eric for the correct setup.
>>>>
>>>> (ii) is the plate at front where the wires connect to.  Interesting I
>>>> noticed recently tension was regularly changing - it had a crack and was
>>>> getting worse.  I took it to local aircraft welder and he did his usual
>>>> perfect job but identified the crack starts from the inner corner.  He 
>>>> added
>>>> extra weld to increase radius of corner and says that will fix it.
>>>>
>>>> Originally people thought I had the wires too slack then think I went to
>>>> other extreme.  I painted bracket white which shows up a crack early.  Also
>>>> white is good for engine mounts Even Yellow will mask the brown colour of a
>>>> crack.
>>>>
>>>> (JV yes I will get in note on same -both happened last week!! and each
>>>> was fixed within 48 hours)
>>>>
>>>> Another is I have had trouble with airswitch (in the old Bergfalke days
>>>> they would last 10 years) so now I run the VDO hour meter from a 
>>>> microswitch
>>>> on the throttle.  It is great in that if you taxi slow then you do not pay
>>>> but if you taxi fast then pay.
>>>>
>>>> With our Sauer we recently found they fitted the wrong high speed jets
>>>> in the bings.  Now we have gone one size bigger than standard (sauer
>>>> supplied) and now it is the coolest aircooled engine I have ever flown and
>>>> we have digital CHT with shock cooling.  The latent heat of vaporisation
>>>> really does work and cools engine.  Also now on full power the EGT is low
>>>> but if you cut throttle back 2 or 3 cm it peaks.  The oil cooler on
>>>> underside cowl like G109B works much better than on top of engine.  I am so
>>>> impressed with it that I am adding same to Motorfalke.
>>>>
>>>> I am also impressed with the Blue oil and petrol hose that John Viney
>>>> recommends - got mine from Sydney at about $22/m
>>>>
>>>> Ian M
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 2009/1/26 Nigel Baker 
>>>> <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi All.
>>>>> Welcome to Ian Patching who is now endorsed on type and thus a Dimona
>>>>> User and now on this list.
>>>>>
>>>>> I am answering a question from Macca and Brian at Byron. Putting it on
>>>>> the list means it is in the archive for future reference. I checked the 
>>>>> Air
>>>>> Spruce site and it has changed since I last visited. The pics have changed
>>>>> but I make the Master Cylinder to be the 10-5. Previously the image showed
>>>>> the brake valve lever etc but now it is just indicative but I think this 
>>>>> is
>>>>> the item required going by the description and the pic. E.G. the only 
>>>>> thing
>>>>> missing in the pic is the brake valve but it is defined in the 
>>>>> description.
>>>>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_mbrakecyl.php
>>>>> Note the unit comes fitted with seals suitable for "aircraft hydraulic
>>>>> fluid" NOT "car brake fluid"
>>>>> You need to change the O'Rings to run car brake fluid if that is what
>>>>> your aircraft is using.
>>>>> Hope this is of help.
>>>>> Cheers.
>>>>> Nige.
>>>>>
>>>>
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>>>
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