Hi John
Royce here from HK. I went to a Sports Class comp in the 80s when the temp
was 46 when we arrived and 48 the next day. The pool at the hotel was 39!
Terrible and hot - stay cool
Best Regards
Royce
Royce Mc Donald
Vice President
Hotel Solutions
+852-3523-7850 - Office Direct
+852-25930250 - FAX Direct
+852-98635813 - Mobile **** Note new mobile number
roycemobile - Skype
"John Mason"
<john.ma...@inter
node.on.net> To
<[email protected]>
02/07/2009 02:59 cc
PM
Subject
Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting
Please respond to cracks
[email protected]
nd.net.au
Hey Nige.
The really scary thing is that if I measured 46.5 on my front verandah,
what are the poor sods out west getting. I wonder if Ivanhoe will get to
48?
I think the temperatures we're getting now are still within the range for
out
this way though. I can remember a year (mid nineties) when we had the
Interservice
guys at Leeton; 3 day's straight of sitting on the grid, but cancelling
because A. the
temperature had climbed to 47 each day and B. the whole airmass was just
HOT.
I've had a look around today as well; lots of cu's in the sky but not much
vertical development.
Oh well, here's hoping the cool change will be here soon.
JM
----- Original Message -----
From: Nigel Baker
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks
Now that is getting warm.
We got close to that last week.
Now it is 43 here (Adelaide) and Bushfires to the north of Adelaide.
Nothing where I am in the hills thankfully but then that can change
quickly.
Nige.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Mason
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 3:00 PM
Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks
Hey Ian. How'd you go with that picture? Or has it been too wet?
It's been too bloody hot down here. 46.5 in the shade as I speak...
John Mason
VH-GJD
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Mc Phee
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks
oops old and slow - tomorrow but it is great!!!! It is a 5cm peg above
handle with a flag which folds down when you change prop but folds up
when you wish to feather. Now you bring together 2 flat surfaces and it
just changes like an automatic trans car!!!
IM
2009/1/30 Nigel Baker <[email protected]>
G'day Ian.
I think you missed the enquiry there. John M wanted a picture of the mod
for the stop on the pitch change mecahnism I reckon. In fact I want to
see it too.
Cheers.
Nige.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Mc Phee
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks
Here is a poor photo - you can pick it by a very slight change in revs
on takeoff and as well by turning the blade around a bit and it does
not return all the way to climb by itself Remember our prop has
8mmrods instead of original 6mm
Ian M
2009/1/30 John Mason <[email protected]>
Ian,
I would be very interested in seeing a picture of that if you ever
get a chance!
John Mason
VH - GJD
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Mc Phee
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks
I find the best way now to check bearings (as I am blind these days)
put tension on the arm and feel top and bottom bearings to make sure
they make contact at the same time.
I have a stop for the handle which I must take a photo of and all
agree is is great and makes prop change real easy !00% success every
time even for the dummies can do it
Ian M
2009/1/29 Brian Marshall <[email protected]>
Hi Rob,
Thanks for the good advice.
Yep... they're checked. It seems our problem this time was that
that prop change bracket got slightly twisted so that its elbow
began rubbing on the plate too! The tell tale sign was that the
slight grinding noise(whilst turning the prop by hand) stopped as
we also coarsened the prop as it slowly turned. Anyway hopefully
all's well now...lesson learned and a painless fix.
Cheers Brian M
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Thompson
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:37 AM
Subject: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks
Have you checked that the bearings (in the prop change lever that contacts
the prop brake plate) are contacting the plate surface at exactly the same
time?
All three dimonas that Nigel and I did up were way out and the only way
to adjust them was to slightly elongate the 4 holes that bolt the prop
change bracket and the oil filler together. This meant the change
mechanism could be adjusted whilst the 4 bolts were loose.
When one bearing contacts before the other it puts a significant uneven
load on the spinning plate which could be responsible for some of these
failures.
Rob
PO Box 129,
Lawson, NSW, 2783.
mobile 0429 493828
.............................................
--- On Tue, 27/1/09, Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]> wrote:
From: Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] Dimona Master Cylinder
To: [email protected]
Received: Tuesday, 27 January, 2009, 12:48 AM
Thanks Nigel for brake details.
Enc are 2 parts which we have had trouble with in h36
(i) is the plate at front of prop. In talking to Eric Weston he has not
seen it before but would seem it is now the weak point of the system
since the rods have been increased from 6mm to 8mm at last service. It
is easy to replace but you need to talk to Eric for the correct setup.
(ii) is the plate at front where the wires connect to. Interesting I
noticed recently tension was regularly changing - it had a crack and was
getting worse. I took it to local aircraft welder and he did his usual
perfect job but identified the crack starts from the inner corner. He
added extra weld to increase radius of corner and says that will fix it.
Originally people thought I had the wires too slack then think I went to
other extreme. I painted bracket white which shows up a crack early.
Also white is good for engine mounts Even Yellow will mask the brown
colour of a crack.
(JV yes I will get in note on same -both happened last week!! and each
was fixed within 48 hours)
Another is I have had trouble with airswitch (in the old Bergfalke days
they would last 10 years) so now I run the VDO hour meter from a
microswitch on the throttle. It is great in that if you taxi slow then
you do not pay but if you taxi fast then pay.
With our Sauer we recently found they fitted the wrong high speed jets in
the bings. Now we have gone one size bigger than standard (sauer
supplied) and now it is the coolest aircooled engine I have ever flown
and we have digital CHT with shock cooling. The latent heat of
vaporisation really does work and cools engine. Also now on full power
the EGT is low but if you cut throttle back 2 or 3 cm it peaks. The oil
cooler on underside cowl like G109B works much better than on top of
engine. I am so impressed with it that I am adding same to Motorfalke.
I am also impressed with the Blue oil and petrol hose that John Viney
recommends - got mine from Sydney at about $22/m
Ian M
2009/1/26 Nigel Baker <[email protected]>
Hi All.
Welcome to Ian Patching who is now endorsed on type and thus a Dimona
User and now on this list.
I am answering a question from Macca and Brian at Byron. Putting it on
the list means it is in the archive for future reference. I checked the
Air Spruce site and it has changed since I last visited. The pics have
changed but I make the Master Cylinder to be the 10-5. Previously the
image showed the brake valve lever etc but now it is just indicative but
I think this is the item required going by the description and the pic.
E.G. the only thing missing in the pic is the brake valve but it is
defined in the description.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_mbrakecyl.php
Note the unit comes fitted with seals suitable for "aircraft hydraulic
fluid" NOT "car brake fluid"
You need to change the O'Rings to run car brake fluid if that is what
your aircraft is using.
Hope this is of help.
Cheers.
Nige.
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