oops old and slow - tomorrow but it is great!!!! It is a 5cm peg above handle with a flag which folds down when you change prop but folds up when you wish to feather. Now you bring together 2 flat surfaces and it just changes like an automatic trans car!!!
IM 2009/1/30 Nigel Baker <[email protected]> > G'day Ian. > I think you missed the enquiry there. John M wanted a picture of the mod > for the stop on the pitch change mecahnism I reckon. In fact I want to see > it too. > Cheers. > Nige. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]> > *To:* [email protected] > *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2009 9:33 PM > *Subject:* Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks > > Here is a poor photo - you can pick it by a very slight change in revs on > takeoff and as well by turning the blade around a bit and it does not return > all the way to climb by itself Remember our prop has 8mmrods instead of > original 6mm > > Ian M > > > > 2009/1/30 John Mason <[email protected]> > >> Ian, >> >> I would be very interested in seeing a picture of that if you ever get a >> chance! >> >> John Mason >> VH - GJD >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> *From:* Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]> >> *To:* [email protected] >> *Sent:* Friday, January 30, 2009 8:25 PM >> *Subject:* Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks >> >> I find the best way now to check bearings (as I am blind these days) put >> tension on the arm and feel top and bottom bearings to make sure they make >> contact at the same time. >> >> I have a stop for the handle which I must take a photo of and all agree is >> is great and makes prop change real easy !00% success every time even for >> the dummies can do it >> >> Ian M >> >> >> >> 2009/1/29 Brian Marshall <[email protected]> >> >>> Hi Rob, >>> Thanks for the good advice. >>> Yep... they're checked. It seems our problem this time was that that >>> prop change bracket got slightly twisted so that its elbow began rubbing on >>> the plate too! The tell tale sign was that the slight grinding noise(whilst >>> turning the prop by hand) stopped as we also coarsened the prop as it slowly >>> turned. Anyway hopefully all's well now...lesson learned and a painless fix. >>> >>> Cheers Brian M >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> *From:* Rob Thompson <[email protected]> >>> *To:* [email protected] >>> *Sent:* Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:37 AM >>> *Subject:* [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks >>> >>> Have you checked that the bearings (in the prop change lever that >>> contacts the prop brake plate) are contacting the plate surface at exactly >>> the same time? >>> All three dimonas that Nigel and I did up were way out and the only way >>> to adjust them was to slightly elongate the 4 holes that bolt the prop >>> change bracket and the oil filler together. This meant the change mechanism >>> could be adjusted whilst the 4 bolts were loose. >>> When one bearing contacts before the other it puts a significant uneven >>> load on the spinning plate which could be responsible for some of these >>> failures. >>> Rob >>> >>> PO Box 129, >>> Lawson, NSW, 2783. >>> mobile 0429 493828 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ............................................. >>> >>> --- On *Tue, 27/1/09, Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]>* wrote: >>> >>> >>> From: Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]> >>> Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] Dimona Master Cylinder >>> To: [email protected] >>> Received: Tuesday, 27 January, 2009, 12:48 AM >>> >>> Thanks Nigel for brake details. >>> >>> Enc are 2 parts which we have had trouble with in h36 >>> >>> (i) is the plate at front of prop. In talking to Eric Weston he has not >>> seen it before but would seem it is now the weak point of the system since >>> the rods have been increased from 6mm to 8mm at last service. It is easy to >>> replace but you need to talk to Eric for the correct setup. >>> >>> (ii) is the plate at front where the wires connect to. Interesting I >>> noticed recently tension was regularly changing - it had a crack and was >>> getting worse. I took it to local aircraft welder and he did his usual >>> perfect job but identified the crack starts from the inner corner. He added >>> extra weld to increase radius of corner and says that will fix it. >>> >>> Originally people thought I had the wires too slack then think I went to >>> other extreme. I painted bracket white which shows up a crack early. Also >>> white is good for engine mounts Even Yellow will mask the brown colour of a >>> crack. >>> >>> (JV yes I will get in note on same -both happened last week!! and each >>> was fixed within 48 hours) >>> >>> Another is I have had trouble with airswitch (in the old Bergfalke days >>> they would last 10 years) so now I run the VDO hour meter from a microswitch >>> on the throttle. It is great in that if you taxi slow then you do not pay >>> but if you taxi fast then pay. >>> >>> With our Sauer we recently found they fitted the wrong high speed jets in >>> the bings. Now we have gone one size bigger than standard (sauer supplied) >>> and now it is the coolest aircooled engine I have ever flown and we have >>> digital CHT with shock cooling. The latent heat of vaporisation really does >>> work and cools engine. Also now on full power the EGT is low but if you cut >>> throttle back 2 or 3 cm it peaks. The oil cooler on underside cowl like >>> G109B works much better than on top of engine. I am so impressed with it >>> that I am adding same to Motorfalke. >>> >>> I am also impressed with the Blue oil and petrol hose that John Viney >>> recommends - got mine from Sydney at about $22/m >>> >>> Ian M >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> 2009/1/26 Nigel Baker >>> <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> >>> > >>> >>>> >>>> Hi All. >>>> Welcome to Ian Patching who is now endorsed on type and thus a Dimona >>>> User and now on this list. >>>> >>>> I am answering a question from Macca and Brian at Byron. Putting it on >>>> the list means it is in the archive for future reference. I checked the Air >>>> Spruce site and it has changed since I last visited. The pics have changed >>>> but I make the Master Cylinder to be the 10-5. Previously the image showed >>>> the brake valve lever etc but now it is just indicative but I think this is >>>> the item required going by the description and the pic. E.G. the only thing >>>> missing in the pic is the brake valve but it is defined in the description. >>>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_mbrakecyl.php >>>> Note the unit comes fitted with seals suitable for "aircraft hydraulic >>>> fluid" NOT "car brake fluid" >>>> You need to change the O'Rings to run car brake fluid if that is what >>>> your aircraft is using. >>>> Hope this is of help. >>>> Cheers. >>>> Nige. >>>> >>> >>> --------------------------------------------------------------------- >>> You are subscribed to the Dimona Owners Group mailing list. >>> To unsubscribe, send email to: >>> [email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> Stay connected to the people that matter most with a smarter inbox. Take >>> a >>> look<http://au.rd.yahoo.com/galaxy/mail/tagline2/*http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinbox>. >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> >>> No virus found in this incoming message. >>> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com >>> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.15/1922 - Release Date: >>> 28/01/2009 7:24 PM >>> >>> >> > ------------------------------ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > You are subscribed to the Dimona Owners Group mailing list. > To unsubscribe, send email to: [email protected] > >
