G'day Ian.
I think you missed the enquiry there. John M wanted a picture of the mod for 
the stop on the pitch change mecahnism I reckon. In fact I want to see it too.
Cheers.
Nige.

 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ian Mc Phee 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 9:33 PM
  Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks


  Here is a poor photo - you can pick it by a very slight change in revs on 
takeoff and as well by turning the blade around a bit and it does not return 
all the way to climb by itself  Remember our prop has 8mmrods instead of 
original 6mm

  Ian M




  2009/1/30 John Mason <[email protected]>

    Ian,

    I would be very interested in seeing a picture of that if you ever get a 
chance!

    John Mason
    VH - GJD
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: Ian Mc Phee 
      To: [email protected] 
      Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 8:25 PM
      Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks


      I find the best way now to check bearings (as I am blind these days) put 
tension on the arm and feel top and bottom bearings to make sure they make 
contact at the same time.  

      I have a stop for the handle which I must take a photo of and all agree 
is is great and makes prop change real easy !00% success every time even for 
the dummies can do it

      Ian M

       


      2009/1/29 Brian Marshall <[email protected]>

        Hi Rob,
        Thanks for the good advice.
        Yep... they're checked. It seems our problem this time  was that that 
prop change bracket got slightly twisted so that its elbow began rubbing on the 
plate too! The tell tale sign was that the slight grinding noise(whilst turning 
the prop by hand) stopped as we also coarsened the prop as it slowly turned. 
Anyway hopefully all's well now...lesson learned and a painless fix. 
        Cheers Brian M
          ----- Original Message ----- 
          From: Rob Thompson 
          To: [email protected] 
          Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:37 AM
          Subject: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks


                Have you checked that the bearings (in the prop change lever 
that contacts the prop brake plate) are contacting the plate surface at exactly 
the same time?
                All three dimonas that Nigel and I did up  were way out  and 
the only way to adjust them was to slightly elongate the 4 holes that bolt the 
prop change bracket and the oil filler together. This meant the change 
mechanism could be adjusted whilst the 4 bolts were loose.
                When one bearing contacts before the other it puts a 
significant uneven load on the spinning plate which could be responsible for 
some of these failures.
                Rob   

                PO Box 129,
                Lawson, NSW, 2783.
                mobile 0429 493828



















                .............................................

                --- On Tue, 27/1/09, Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]> wrote:


                  From: Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]>
                  Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] Dimona Master Cylinder
                  To: [email protected]
                  Received: Tuesday, 27 January, 2009, 12:48 AM


                  Thanks Nigel for brake details.

                  Enc are 2 parts which we have had trouble with in h36

                  (i) is the plate at front of prop.  In talking to Eric Weston 
he has not seen it before but would seem it is now the weak point of the system 
since the rods have been increased from 6mm to 8mm at last service.  It is easy 
to replace but you need to talk to Eric for the correct setup.

                  (ii) is the plate at front where the wires connect to.  
Interesting I noticed recently tension was regularly changing - it had a crack 
and was getting worse.  I took it to local aircraft welder and he did his usual 
perfect job but identified the crack starts from the inner corner.  He added 
extra weld to increase radius of corner and says that will fix it.

                  Originally people thought I had the wires too slack then 
think I went to other extreme.  I painted bracket white which shows up a crack 
early.  Also white is good for engine mounts Even Yellow will mask the brown 
colour of a crack.

                  (JV yes I will get in note on same -both happened last week!! 
and each was fixed within 48 hours)

                  Another is I have had trouble with airswitch (in the old 
Bergfalke days they would last 10 years) so now I run the VDO hour meter from a 
microswitch on the throttle.  It is great in that if you taxi slow then you do 
not pay but if you taxi fast then pay.  

                  With our Sauer we recently found they fitted the wrong high 
speed jets in the bings.  Now we have gone one size bigger than standard (sauer 
supplied) and now it is the coolest aircooled engine I have ever flown and we 
have digital CHT with shock cooling.  The latent heat of vaporisation really 
does work and cools engine.  Also now on full power the EGT is low but if you 
cut throttle back 2 or 3 cm it peaks.  The oil cooler on underside cowl like 
G109B works much better than on top of engine.  I am so impressed with it that 
I am adding same to Motorfalke. 

                  I am also impressed with the Blue oil and petrol hose that 
John Viney recommends - got mine from Sydney at about $22/m

                  Ian M    

                   

                   


                  2009/1/26 Nigel Baker <[email protected]>


                    Hi All.
                    Welcome to Ian Patching who is now endorsed on type and 
thus a Dimona User and now on this list.

                    I am answering a question from Macca and Brian at Byron. 
Putting it on the list means it is in the archive for future reference. I 
checked the Air Spruce site and it has changed since I last visited. The pics 
have changed but I make the Master Cylinder to be the 10-5. Previously the 
image showed the brake valve lever etc but now it is just indicative but I 
think this is the item required going by the description and the pic. E.G. the 
only thing missing in the pic is the brake valve but it is defined in the 
description.
                    
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_mbrakecyl.php
                    Note the unit comes fitted with seals suitable for 
"aircraft hydraulic fluid" NOT "car brake fluid"
                    You need to change the O'Rings to run car brake fluid if 
that is what your aircraft is using.
                    Hope this is of help.
                    Cheers.
                    Nige.


                  
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