Now that is getting warm. We got close to that last week. Now it is 43 here (Adelaide) and Bushfires to the north of Adelaide. Nothing where I am in the hills thankfully but then that can change quickly. Nige.
----- Original Message ----- From: John Mason To: [email protected] Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 3:00 PM Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks Hey Ian. How'd you go with that picture? Or has it been too wet? It's been too bloody hot down here. 46.5 in the shade as I speak... John Mason VH-GJD ----- Original Message ----- From: Ian Mc Phee To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 10:34 PM Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks oops old and slow - tomorrow but it is great!!!! It is a 5cm peg above handle with a flag which folds down when you change prop but folds up when you wish to feather. Now you bring together 2 flat surfaces and it just changes like an automatic trans car!!! IM 2009/1/30 Nigel Baker <[email protected]> G'day Ian. I think you missed the enquiry there. John M wanted a picture of the mod for the stop on the pitch change mecahnism I reckon. In fact I want to see it too. Cheers. Nige. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ian Mc Phee To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 9:33 PM Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks Here is a poor photo - you can pick it by a very slight change in revs on takeoff and as well by turning the blade around a bit and it does not return all the way to climb by itself Remember our prop has 8mmrods instead of original 6mm Ian M 2009/1/30 John Mason <[email protected]> Ian, I would be very interested in seeing a picture of that if you ever get a chance! John Mason VH - GJD ----- Original Message ----- From: Ian Mc Phee To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 8:25 PM Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks I find the best way now to check bearings (as I am blind these days) put tension on the arm and feel top and bottom bearings to make sure they make contact at the same time. I have a stop for the handle which I must take a photo of and all agree is is great and makes prop change real easy !00% success every time even for the dummies can do it Ian M 2009/1/29 Brian Marshall <[email protected]> Hi Rob, Thanks for the good advice. Yep... they're checked. It seems our problem this time was that that prop change bracket got slightly twisted so that its elbow began rubbing on the plate too! The tell tale sign was that the slight grinding noise(whilst turning the prop by hand) stopped as we also coarsened the prop as it slowly turned. Anyway hopefully all's well now...lesson learned and a painless fix. Cheers Brian M ----- Original Message ----- From: Rob Thompson To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:37 AM Subject: [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks Have you checked that the bearings (in the prop change lever that contacts the prop brake plate) are contacting the plate surface at exactly the same time? All three dimonas that Nigel and I did up were way out and the only way to adjust them was to slightly elongate the 4 holes that bolt the prop change bracket and the oil filler together. This meant the change mechanism could be adjusted whilst the 4 bolts were loose. When one bearing contacts before the other it puts a significant uneven load on the spinning plate which could be responsible for some of these failures. Rob PO Box 129, Lawson, NSW, 2783. mobile 0429 493828 ............................................. --- On Tue, 27/1/09, Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]> wrote: From: Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] Dimona Master Cylinder To: [email protected] Received: Tuesday, 27 January, 2009, 12:48 AM Thanks Nigel for brake details. Enc are 2 parts which we have had trouble with in h36 (i) is the plate at front of prop. In talking to Eric Weston he has not seen it before but would seem it is now the weak point of the system since the rods have been increased from 6mm to 8mm at last service. It is easy to replace but you need to talk to Eric for the correct setup. (ii) is the plate at front where the wires connect to. Interesting I noticed recently tension was regularly changing - it had a crack and was getting worse. I took it to local aircraft welder and he did his usual perfect job but identified the crack starts from the inner corner. He added extra weld to increase radius of corner and says that will fix it. Originally people thought I had the wires too slack then think I went to other extreme. I painted bracket white which shows up a crack early. Also white is good for engine mounts Even Yellow will mask the brown colour of a crack. (JV yes I will get in note on same -both happened last week!! and each was fixed within 48 hours) Another is I have had trouble with airswitch (in the old Bergfalke days they would last 10 years) so now I run the VDO hour meter from a microswitch on the throttle. It is great in that if you taxi slow then you do not pay but if you taxi fast then pay. With our Sauer we recently found they fitted the wrong high speed jets in the bings. Now we have gone one size bigger than standard (sauer supplied) and now it is the coolest aircooled engine I have ever flown and we have digital CHT with shock cooling. The latent heat of vaporisation really does work and cools engine. Also now on full power the EGT is low but if you cut throttle back 2 or 3 cm it peaks. The oil cooler on underside cowl like G109B works much better than on top of engine. I am so impressed with it that I am adding same to Motorfalke. I am also impressed with the Blue oil and petrol hose that John Viney recommends - got mine from Sydney at about $22/m Ian M 2009/1/26 Nigel Baker <[email protected]> Hi All. Welcome to Ian Patching who is now endorsed on type and thus a Dimona User and now on this list. I am answering a question from Macca and Brian at Byron. Putting it on the list means it is in the archive for future reference. I checked the Air Spruce site and it has changed since I last visited. The pics have changed but I make the Master Cylinder to be the 10-5. Previously the image showed the brake valve lever etc but now it is just indicative but I think this is the item required going by the description and the pic. E.G. the only thing missing in the pic is the brake valve but it is defined in the description. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_mbrakecyl.php Note the unit comes fitted with seals suitable for "aircraft hydraulic fluid" NOT "car brake fluid" You need to change the O'Rings to run car brake fluid if that is what your aircraft is using. Hope this is of help. Cheers. Nige. --------------------------------------------------------------------- You are subscribed to the Dimona Owners Group mailing list. To unsubscribe, send email to: [email protected] ---------------------------------------------------------------- Stay connected to the people that matter most with a smarter inbox. Take a look. ---------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. 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