I find the best way now to check bearings (as I am blind these days) put tension on the arm and feel top and bottom bearings to make sure they make contact at the same time.
I have a stop for the handle which I must take a photo of and all agree is is great and makes prop change real easy !00% success every time even for the dummies can do it Ian M 2009/1/29 Brian Marshall <[email protected]> > Hi Rob, > Thanks for the good advice. > Yep... they're checked. It seems our problem this time was that that prop > change bracket got slightly twisted so that its elbow began rubbing on the > plate too! The tell tale sign was that the slight grinding noise(whilst > turning the prop by hand) stopped as we also coarsened the prop as it slowly > turned. Anyway hopefully all's well now...lesson learned and a painless fix. > > Cheers Brian M > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Rob Thompson <[email protected]> > *To:* [email protected] > *Sent:* Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:37 AM > *Subject:* [DOG mailing list] prop fitting cracks > > Have you checked that the bearings (in the prop change lever that > contacts the prop brake plate) are contacting the plate surface at exactly > the same time? > All three dimonas that Nigel and I did up were way out and the only way > to adjust them was to slightly elongate the 4 holes that bolt the prop > change bracket and the oil filler together. This meant the change mechanism > could be adjusted whilst the 4 bolts were loose. > When one bearing contacts before the other it puts a significant uneven > load on the spinning plate which could be responsible for some of these > failures. > Rob > > PO Box 129, > Lawson, NSW, 2783. > mobile 0429 493828 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ............................................. > > --- On *Tue, 27/1/09, Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]>* wrote: > > > From: Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] Dimona Master Cylinder > To: [email protected] > Received: Tuesday, 27 January, 2009, 12:48 AM > > Thanks Nigel for brake details. > > Enc are 2 parts which we have had trouble with in h36 > > (i) is the plate at front of prop. In talking to Eric Weston he has not > seen it before but would seem it is now the weak point of the system since > the rods have been increased from 6mm to 8mm at last service. It is easy to > replace but you need to talk to Eric for the correct setup. > > (ii) is the plate at front where the wires connect to. Interesting I > noticed recently tension was regularly changing - it had a crack and was > getting worse. I took it to local aircraft welder and he did his usual > perfect job but identified the crack starts from the inner corner. He added > extra weld to increase radius of corner and says that will fix it. > > Originally people thought I had the wires too slack then think I went to > other extreme. I painted bracket white which shows up a crack early. Also > white is good for engine mounts Even Yellow will mask the brown colour of a > crack. > > (JV yes I will get in note on same -both happened last week!! and each was > fixed within 48 hours) > > Another is I have had trouble with airswitch (in the old Bergfalke days > they would last 10 years) so now I run the VDO hour meter from a microswitch > on the throttle. It is great in that if you taxi slow then you do not pay > but if you taxi fast then pay. > > With our Sauer we recently found they fitted the wrong high speed jets in > the bings. Now we have gone one size bigger than standard (sauer supplied) > and now it is the coolest aircooled engine I have ever flown and we have > digital CHT with shock cooling. The latent heat of vaporisation really does > work and cools engine. Also now on full power the EGT is low but if you cut > throttle back 2 or 3 cm it peaks. The oil cooler on underside cowl like > G109B works much better than on top of engine. I am so impressed with it > that I am adding same to Motorfalke. > > I am also impressed with the Blue oil and petrol hose that John Viney > recommends - got mine from Sydney at about $22/m > > Ian M > > > > > > 2009/1/26 Nigel Baker > <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> > > > >> >> Hi All. >> Welcome to Ian Patching who is now endorsed on type and thus a Dimona User >> and now on this list. >> >> I am answering a question from Macca and Brian at Byron. Putting it on the >> list means it is in the archive for future reference. I checked the Air >> Spruce site and it has changed since I last visited. The pics have changed >> but I make the Master Cylinder to be the 10-5. Previously the image showed >> the brake valve lever etc but now it is just indicative but I think this is >> the item required going by the description and the pic. E.G. the only thing >> missing in the pic is the brake valve but it is defined in the description. >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_mbrakecyl.php >> Note the unit comes fitted with seals suitable for "aircraft hydraulic >> fluid" NOT "car brake fluid" >> You need to change the O'Rings to run car brake fluid if that is what your >> aircraft is using. >> Hope this is of help. >> Cheers. >> Nige. >> > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > You are subscribed to the Dimona Owners Group mailing list. > To unsubscribe, send email to: > [email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]> > > > ------------------------------ > Stay connected to the people that matter most with a smarter inbox. Take a > look<http://au.rd.yahoo.com/galaxy/mail/tagline2/*http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinbox>. > > > ------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.15/1922 - Release Date: > 28/01/2009 7:24 PM > >
