Nigel

Thanks for update. In past I have used brown tacky aviation sealant. I have
also used a staple from office staple machine and hooked it into cork seal
then around edge of tappet cover - it stops it slipping down and you put in
place. The lesson to all from this is always do a quick circuit after cover
removal just to be sure.

Also Nigel what is the recommended method to clean those new Limbach plugs.
 In past with Pawnee I used oven cleaner overnight then washed with water
then metho to dry out water.  Plugs are as good as new.  The L2000EA is now
140hrs without even adjusting tappets.  I now have "Mixture control" on
Limbach - full power CHT <170deg C and stable but bring throttle back say
15mm (no real drop in revs) up goes temp to 190 deg C and beyond. Still have
problems with too low oil temp (that oil cooler on underside of cowl with a
lip works far too well - works hugely better than on top of engine in usual
spot - I blame Limbach as they supplied oil cooler) so looking forward to
inland Qld to warm up the oil a bit.

Hey Nigel how are the Waikerie floods - anything like the 1974 world comps
(see Zulo Romeo Good Start) the only thing then out of water was the highway
30km east of Waikerie.

Ian M



On 14 September 2010 23:58, Nigel Baker <[email protected]> wrote:

>  Hi All.
> Yep been there done that.
> Had a problem a while back where the gasket leaked and the oil ended up
> dropping into the cabin heat valve and running back into the heater box
> overnight while parked on uneven ground.
> Made for a very short circuit the next morning when I attempted to fly
> home.
> Wisps of smoke in the cockpit. What fun.
> This happened about 15 hours after the previous 25 hourly!!
> When I removed the rocker cover and looked at the gasket I could see a
> series of impressions in it from the joint to the head. Looked like every
> time the engine heated and cooled the gasket slipped up a bit more. It was a
> fresh gasket at the previous 25 hourly.
>
> Limbach use sealant on this gasket on new engines. Anyone on the list who
> has had a shortblock changeover will know that the first time they pulled
> the covers off for a service the gasket was glued on with a brown substance.
> While the manual doesn't tell you to do this it is standard Limbach
> practice.
> The product is from "Elring" and the name is Curil (labeled sealant
> compound).
> It is NOT a Silicone Product.
> It is applied to the Rocker Cover and the gasket set into place. It is a
> thin smear but enough to cover the face. Place the gasket in position and
> press it down all round to mate with the sealing face of the cover. It will
> cure over night but I find it is firm enough after a few hours to fit the
> cover on and this beds it in without the risk of it slipping. Once set you
> can remove the cover and check it is located properly.
> At 120 hours I haven't changed the gasket yet and it still seals just fine.
> I expect next service I will have to change the gasket. This requires
> scraping the "Curil" off and doing the routine again but it is not a very
> arduous a task. The reliability of the sealing joint is worth the effort.
> The reason Limbach use Curil is for the very reason Rob has raised.
>
> The 3 sealants used by Limbach are.
>
> Hylomar Dauerplastische for sealing of Crankcase halves (no interest to
> most of you).
> Wacker Elastosil RTV-1 for the Oil Pump, Fuel Pump and Cylinder/Crankcase
> Joint etc.
> Curil for the Rocker Covers as mentioned.
>
> Hylomer Universal Sealant (blue) doesn't dry out and stays flexible and
> impervious to Oil hence used in the Crankcase Joint which is prone to
> movement in the joint (thermal expansion etc).
>
> The Elastosil is a High Temp Silicone Rubber (black). It doesn't like
> direct exposure to Fuel but is fine with Oil. It is easily removed with
> petrol or acetone and works well in the places mentioned. It is very
> different to the Silicone products I am used to. I have a tube 3 years old I
> am still using and yes it still comes out of the neck of the tube. It
> doesn't dry out in the tube like every tube of Silicone I have bought
> before.
>
> Cheers.
> Nige.
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Rob Thompson <[email protected]>
> *To:* [email protected]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 14, 2010 6:02 PM
> *Subject:* [DOG mailing list] VW motor rocker cover gasket leaks
>
> G'day All,
>     Just wanted to remind everybody how easy it is with VW derivative
> motors to put on the rocker cover and not have the gasket lined up and
> seating properly.
>     I've put the rocker covers on a zillion times over 20 years and have
> always made sure the gasket isn't bowing inwards but yet today the gasket
> still slipped inwards as I was installing it resulting in quite a
> significant oil leak....Fortunately we were just doing an engine run after
> the form 2 inspection and all it meant was a clean up.
>     My recommendation.....Every time you put on the rocker covers do a run
> up and then get out and have a look.
> cheers
> Rob
>
>
> PO Box 129,
> Lawson, NSW, 2783.
> phone 02 47592307
> fax 02 47050312
> mobile 0429 493828
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>  ------------------------------
> *From:* Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]>
> *To:* [email protected]
> *Sent:* Tue, 10 August, 2010 8:53:48 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [DOG mailing list] Recommendations when changing the rear
> window?
>
> Most repairers use flock and resin but do know Streifender in Germany do
> have another product which they sometimes use.  There are some good links in
> EAA site or was it kitplanes to fitting canopys but take real care with any
> holes you may drill - i am inexperienced so I always use round head screws
> with large washers and I remove screws just before resin goes off and then
> replace (if necessary) with countersunk ss screws but perspex holes should
> always be rattle fit with the screw you use. Have heaps of masking tape
> around the place.  There is a scotch product which you spray on canopy and
> remove like a rubber skin after fitting- protects window
>
> Nigel may have ideas and a different version
> *
> *
> *I would love to hear form others on SPEED vs RPM vs fuel consumption*
>
> **Take you time and think first re canopy
>
> Ian M
>
>
>
> On 10 August 2010 02:13, Lasse Schmidt <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Hi all!
>>
>> We are going to replace our cracked rear window tomorrow.
>> Does any of you have any tips about this little project? What glue is
>> suitable for this?
>>
>> BTW, just a little survey - what cruise speed do you guys get at 2500 rpm
>> with two persons onboard?
>>
>> Cheers Lasse
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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