Hi All. Yep been there done that. Had a problem a while back where the gasket leaked and the oil ended up dropping into the cabin heat valve and running back into the heater box overnight while parked on uneven ground. Made for a very short circuit the next morning when I attempted to fly home. Wisps of smoke in the cockpit. What fun. This happened about 15 hours after the previous 25 hourly!! When I removed the rocker cover and looked at the gasket I could see a series of impressions in it from the joint to the head. Looked like every time the engine heated and cooled the gasket slipped up a bit more. It was a fresh gasket at the previous 25 hourly.
Limbach use sealant on this gasket on new engines. Anyone on the list who has had a shortblock changeover will know that the first time they pulled the covers off for a service the gasket was glued on with a brown substance. While the manual doesn't tell you to do this it is standard Limbach practice. The product is from "Elring" and the name is Curil (labeled sealant compound). It is NOT a Silicone Product. It is applied to the Rocker Cover and the gasket set into place. It is a thin smear but enough to cover the face. Place the gasket in position and press it down all round to mate with the sealing face of the cover. It will cure over night but I find it is firm enough after a few hours to fit the cover on and this beds it in without the risk of it slipping. Once set you can remove the cover and check it is located properly. At 120 hours I haven't changed the gasket yet and it still seals just fine. I expect next service I will have to change the gasket. This requires scraping the "Curil" off and doing the routine again but it is not a very arduous a task. The reliability of the sealing joint is worth the effort. The reason Limbach use Curil is for the very reason Rob has raised. The 3 sealants used by Limbach are. Hylomar Dauerplastische for sealing of Crankcase halves (no interest to most of you). Wacker Elastosil RTV-1 for the Oil Pump, Fuel Pump and Cylinder/Crankcase Joint etc. Curil for the Rocker Covers as mentioned. Hylomer Universal Sealant (blue) doesn't dry out and stays flexible and impervious to Oil hence used in the Crankcase Joint which is prone to movement in the joint (thermal expansion etc). The Elastosil is a High Temp Silicone Rubber (black). It doesn't like direct exposure to Fuel but is fine with Oil. It is easily removed with petrol or acetone and works well in the places mentioned. It is very different to the Silicone products I am used to. I have a tube 3 years old I am still using and yes it still comes out of the neck of the tube. It doesn't dry out in the tube like every tube of Silicone I have bought before. Cheers. Nige. ----- Original Message ----- From: Rob Thompson To: [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2010 6:02 PM Subject: [DOG mailing list] VW motor rocker cover gasket leaks G'day All, Just wanted to remind everybody how easy it is with VW derivative motors to put on the rocker cover and not have the gasket lined up and seating properly. I've put the rocker covers on a zillion times over 20 years and have always made sure the gasket isn't bowing inwards but yet today the gasket still slipped inwards as I was installing it resulting in quite a significant oil leak....Fortunately we were just doing an engine run after the form 2 inspection and all it meant was a clean up. My recommendation.....Every time you put on the rocker covers do a run up and then get out and have a look. cheers Rob PO Box 129, Lawson, NSW, 2783. phone 02 47592307 fax 02 47050312 mobile 0429 493828 ............................................. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: Ian Mc Phee <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Sent: Tue, 10 August, 2010 8:53:48 AM Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] Recommendations when changing the rear window? Most repairers use flock and resin but do know Streifender in Germany do have another product which they sometimes use. There are some good links in EAA site or was it kitplanes to fitting canopys but take real care with any holes you may drill - i am inexperienced so I always use round head screws with large washers and I remove screws just before resin goes off and then replace (if necessary) with countersunk ss screws but perspex holes should always be rattle fit with the screw you use. Have heaps of masking tape around the place. There is a scotch product which you spray on canopy and remove like a rubber skin after fitting- protects window Nigel may have ideas and a different version I would love to hear form others on SPEED vs RPM vs fuel consumption Take you time and think first re canopy Ian M On 10 August 2010 02:13, Lasse Schmidt <[email protected]> wrote: Hi all! We are going to replace our cracked rear window tomorrow. Does any of you have any tips about this little project? What glue is suitable for this? BTW, just a little survey - what cruise speed do you guys get at 2500 rpm with two persons onboard? Cheers Lasse --------------------------------------------------------------------- You are subscribed to the Dimona Owners Group mailing list. To unsubscribe, send email to: [email protected]
