The best battery connection I work with back in the 50's was the large lead 
links that was welded on with 100% lead rods.  These batteries were 2 volt 
batteries which we call jars.  Today when you get into the 300 ah or above 
batteries, these are still link together this way.  

Each new 2 volt jar come with a large post that looks like a auto post, but 
both are the same size instead of the smaller one for the negative and larger 
one for the positive.  These jars are then place in a box that have separate 
cells for the jars to be place in.  The cell walls in the 300 ah or above jars, 
have about 1/4 inch spacing between the post.  A preform lead link is place 
over the post and welded on with a long thin flame.  

To remove these links, a lead cutter that looks like a hole saw, except it only 
has four large teeth, something like a plug drill that is use for wood.  You 
then can remove the link and use it over again.  

My first battery set was link this way.  If any one cell fail, I just hole saw 
the link out, pull the jar out of it cell and place a jumper across to the next 
battery cell. 

The best battery connection we use was not a battery clamp or a cable lug, it 
was a taper battery connection that was place on a auto post that has a 
imbedded L head bolt.  This connection work something like a taper lock 
connector.  This taper battery connection was place over the auto post, and it 
was further press in place with the top bolt.  The bolt apply internal pressure 
to the taper battery connection which we can torque between between 15 to 20 
foot lbs.  

The auto post bolt in todays batteries below 300 ah can only be torque to 100 
inch lbs with a L head bolt and only 65 inch pounds with a standard hex head 
bolts.

A engineer at Trojan Battery, said these batteries with the low profile studs 
are not design for on the road EV's.  Best to use a large high auto post or the 
large L pad that is design for 600 amps. 

Roland   

 s 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Lee Hart via EV<mailto:[email protected]> 
  To: KenA<mailto:[email protected]> ; Electric Vehicle Discussion 
List<mailto:[email protected]> 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 11:53 PM
  Subject: Re: [EVDL] FLA terminals


  KenA via EV wrote:
  > When I built my EV in 2005, the general consensus was that for FLA 
batteries,
  > the preferred terminal was SAE post style.

  And it still is. :-) For high currents (500 amps etc.) it is much better 
  than the 5/16" studs or flag terminals.

  > 15 - 8v GC batteries; 4/0 cables.

  4/0 cable is heavier than you need, but does no harm (except to your 
  wallet).

  > purchased screw on adapters so my cables would still work with the less
  > expensive 5/16" stud terminals.

  Yeah, these adapters are not reliable for high currents. I'm surprised 
  you haven't melted a few.

  > My question is: will the lugs provide enough surface contact to carry the
  > amperage?

  The stainless steel 5/16" stud is only good for about 75 amps 
  continuous. Your EV is likely to pull more than this, so these studs 
  will cause trouble.

  They are also mechanically weak. Lead is soft. The studs tend to creep 
  out of the lead if tightened enough to actually get a good contact.

  My suggestion would be to check with a local battery dealer that handles 
  industrial batteries. They can cast new automotive posts on your golf 
  cart batteries.

  Better yet, they can simply weld your inter-battery jumpers to each 
  battery. That's what industrial batteries do, so they never have 
  problems with loose connections. But of course, it's permanent; you have 
  to cut them to change a battery.

  -- 
  I view this year’s failure as next year’s opportunity. Failures are
  not something to be avoided. You want them to happen as quickly as
  you can, so you can make progress rapidly. -- Gordon Moore
  --
  Lee Hart's EV projects are at 
http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm<http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm>
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