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I have an S-10 electric conversion with 20 6 Volt golf cart batteries.
They have studs. I am on my 2nd set of batteries and haven't melted
any lead or had any studs pull out.

I tighten them with a small (6") wrench wrapped in electrical tape, so
can't get too much torque on them, and I don't try to tighten them as
tight as I could get them even with that small wrench.

I do check tightness after the first two weeks of driving, and then
again every 1-2 months when I water the batteries. I also use lock
washers just under the nut and haven't found many that need tightening
when I check. (and after I tightened up the one or two nuts on my
first check after switching packs or adding the PakTraker system they
usually all stay put after that....)

The batteries are well packed into the battery boxes with foam, so
they don't move around, and then 2/0 wires have enough slack so that
the lugs shouldn't be moving around or putting pressure on the
studs/nuts as the truck bounces around.

The controller is rated at 500 amps max, ( Curtis 1231C-86) and I
typically average 75-120 amps and sometimes pull at least 200-300 amps
for at least 20-30 seconds at a time when going up long hills, etc....

[Usually the motor current maxes out at 500 amps when starting from a
dead stop, but the battery current is lower....and the batteries don't
seem to provide the full 500 amps when I have the throttle wide open
at full speed...250-300 battery amps is the largest I've seen on the
PakTrakr]

http://www.evalbum.com/3693

Jay


On 06/02/2014 10:56 AM, KenA via EV wrote:
> The maximum amperage of my system is 500 and it typically doesn't
> exceed 300. Would studs and lugs usually work for that?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ken
> 
> 
> 
> -- View this message in context:
> http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/FLA-terminals-tp4669714p4669785.html
>
> 
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