I'm upgrading my charger, and the new charge controller supports j1772
signalling (and I have it working with a j1772 inlet).
But, it also supports 4 user selectable profiles via a rotary switch, so
I could program one of the profiles to NOT use j1772 signalling and
assume the input is 120 volts and 12 amps.
This would allow me to use a standard 15 amp RV shore power inlet also
connected to the chargers with a $20 extension cord, instead of a $250
external EVSE cordset that would be expensive to replace if stolen.
Obviously, having a 120v 15A MALE PLUGS RV inlet "energized" at 240
volts while using the J1772 side of things isn't a good idea (even if it
does have a small rubber door / plug that goes over it.)
I invite comments on my options for wiring this up:
Option A: Physical interlock. Have a sliding metal door such that only
the 120v 15A RV inlet, OR the J1772 is visible at a single point in
time. (Simple, but may be harder to set up, as I was going to put my
inlets in the front bumper area behind a flip down license plate holder.)
Option B: Electronic "interlock" consisting of a 120 volt coil relay
that can switch 240 volts set up so that the common is connected to the
chargers, the RV inlet is connected to the "NO" side and the coil, and
the J1772 is connected to the "NC" side.
By default the J1772 is connected to the chargers, but if you plug 120
volts AC into the RV inlet, the relay switches the chargers over to the
120 volt side, disconnecting the J1772 inlet as a bonus.
Here is a link to the part I'm considering (the chargers use 18 amps at
240 volts, and would be limited to 12 amps at 120 volts, so 30A should
be well rated...
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/T92S11A22-120/PB597-ND/678230
I'm leaning towards the "electronic interlock" because I feel that using
a relay to join all the wires from the two inlets and charger will
actually simplify my wiring, and be easier than making a sliding door,
but I'd like any comments you may have about potential issues I haven't
seen.
Thanks,
Jay
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