Hello Jay.

 

I have two charging inlets that is very simple to use.  One is a 50 amp 4 wire 
125/250 volt power receptacle and a 20 amp 3 wire 125V receptacle.  The 50 amp 
inlet is under the hinge license plate holder and the 20 amp is under the gas 
inlet cover.  

 

The PFC-50 charger I have can accept either 125 or 250 voltage.  There is no 
inlet relay or contactor between the commercial power and charger.  I use a 
four wire terminal power block between the charger and main power 50 amp inlet.

 

The PFC chargers uses a 4 wire input which is RED Phase 1, Black Phase 2, White 
Neutral and Green ground.  All four wires are use for 250/125 volts.  The 
Black, White and Green is use for 125 volts.  

 

Just don't plug in the 20 amp 125 volt and 50 amp 250 volt receptacle at the 
same time. 

 

A optional connection for the 20 amp 125 volt circuit, is to mount a on board 
circuit breaker chassis bars that accepts standard 20 amp breakers between the 
125 V receptacle and the charger. This breaker could be a ground fault type.

 

I install the duel voltage circuit back in 1980 and nothing blew up yet.

 

Roland 


----- Original Message ----- 

From: Jay Summet via EV<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> 

To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> 

Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2015 4:05 AM

Subject: [EVDL] Two charging inlets - relay "interlock" / safety question



I'm upgrading my charger, and the new charge controller supports j1772 
signalling (and I have it working with a j1772 inlet).

But, it also supports 4 user selectable profiles via a rotary switch, so 
I could program one of the profiles to NOT use j1772 signalling and 
assume the input is 120 volts and 12 amps.

This would allow me to use a standard 15 amp RV shore power inlet also 
connected to the chargers with a $20 extension cord, instead of a $250 
external EVSE cordset that would be expensive to replace if stolen.


Obviously, having a 120v 15A MALE PLUGS RV inlet "energized" at 240 
volts while using the J1772 side of things isn't a good idea (even if it 
does have a small rubber door / plug that goes over it.)

I invite comments on my options for wiring this up:

Option A: Physical interlock. Have a sliding metal door such that only 
the 120v 15A RV inlet, OR the J1772 is visible at a single point in 
time.  (Simple, but may be harder to set up, as I was going to put my 
inlets in the front bumper area behind a flip down license plate holder.)

Option B: Electronic "interlock" consisting of a 120 volt coil relay 
that can switch 240 volts set up so that the common is connected to the 
chargers, the RV inlet is connected to the "NO"  side and the coil, and 
the J1772 is connected to the "NC" side.

By default the J1772 is connected to the chargers, but if you plug 120 
volts AC into the RV inlet, the relay switches the chargers over to the 
120 volt side, disconnecting the J1772 inlet as a bonus.

Here is a link to the part I'm considering (the chargers use 18 amps at 
240 volts, and would be limited to 12 amps at 120 volts, so 30A should 
be well rated...
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/T92S11A22-120/PB597-ND/678230<http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/T92S11A22-120/PB597-ND/678230>

I'm leaning towards the "electronic interlock" because I feel that using 
a relay to join all the wires from the two inlets and charger will 
actually simplify my wiring, and be easier than making a sliding door, 
but I'd like any comments you may have about potential issues I haven't 
seen.

Thanks,
Jay
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