[ref https://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/msg19250.html ]
You are on the road again using another cursit controller. But for how long? After my first curtis (cursit) controller died, and was replaced with another by the converter, I felt the same way: - nice to be back on the road, and I will take it easy on the accelerator, driving much more gently, carefully. But is that what really made the cursit die, or just its non-robust design? I had been careful with the second cursit controller when coming back from a company Xmas dinner with my co-workers. I was kind of full of myself because I had succeeded in sweet-talking the restaurant owner into letting me plug into a L1 outlet I found in his parking lot (I probably only used about $.50 of power, @a $0.15pkWh utility rate). Even driving gently, coming off the highway to stop off at a store before I went home, when I put in the clutch to gently coast into the parking lot's (ice) spot, ... POOF! A huge plume of smoke came out from under the S-10's hood. The cart-return guy hurried away, his face looking quite concerned. I quickly pulled the red kill power switch but the smoke continued. After popping the hood, and using an extinguisher to put out the small flames coming out of the cursit, I knew I was right back where I was when the first cursit died. Even before the tow truck trip back home, I knew I was not going to get another cursit. At the time, there were few off-the-shelf EV controller choices. I won't go into what I replaced it with (that is another story), but in the end, by replacing the quick-dying cursit with a robust non-dying (air-cooled 600A DC) controller, I had no more controller failures. So, instead of queuing to work on repairing or upgrading your dead cursit, I suggest you line up a robustly-designed controller to purchase when this, your replacement cursit, dies (start saving your money now, and don't spend any $ on your dead cursit). If having a lead foot (strong acceleration use) with the cursit will cause a controller failure sooner, then isn't there a simple RC (resistor, capacitor) circuit one could put at the cursit controller (pot-box) input (slows the acceleration attack ramp to a slower rise, etc.)? For EVLN EV-newswire posts use: http://evdl.org/evln/ {brucedp.neocities.org} -- View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Blew-my-Curtis-1231C-Controller-repair-procedures-tp4685180p4685360.html Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com. _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/ Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
