On the topic of repairing a Curtis 1221x controller ...

When I received my S-10 Blazer conversion EV from the converter (no, I did
not make my own. I had no garage, she got the house. But I did have an
income, but no time, I was always working), it arrived as a 120VDC T125
system using a Curtis 1221x controller to power the 9" ADC dual-shaft
e-motor.

After the first curtis had died, I paid to have that converter replace it.
Later, (way back when Otmar resided in Palo Alto, CA), Otmar gave some
pointers when we looked under my hood. He noticed the way the converter had
secured the power cabled to and from the controller needed more support.

The reason was the cheap potting material the curtis controller used. Any
vibrations of those cables would eventually cause openings to occur in that
potting material. Otmar explained, that it was when outside air could breath
through the controller (instead of it being sealed, air tight) that was one
of the major causes of premature failure. As the controller would heat up
with use, and then cool when not in use, outside air would breath in
moisture. That moisture with the heating cooling of the components would
cause corrosion, which would lead to eventual internal component failure.

*So, anyone doing a curtis repair, ensure the controller is back in a
sealed, air tight environment again (make sure the unit has no way for
moisture to get in). 

Also, another item causing failures was having proper cooling. Typically,
the controller was mounted on a heat sink for low power use. But in the
higher (144V) use, the best cooling even on hot days, was to have the
controller mounted on a large heat sink, with 12V fans mounted on the top
and bottom (like a sandwich) to ensure the controller had enough cooling.




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{brucedp.neocities.org}

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