Hoegberg via EV wrote:
I have an 1221 that I want to use for a new car, but this one has not been
used and have been outdoors for 20 years.. in bad climate, so it probably need
some internal drying..
After that length of time, I would assume the electrolytic capacitors
are bad. I'd replace them.
Once you're inside the case, check the screw heads for rust. If they're
rusty, then for sure water has been inside the case as well. That can be
very bad; corrosion can open traces, and cause shorts between pads.
if I remember correct it is 72-120V 400 Motoramps. (dont have the 1khz at low
pwm/speeds)
Anyone on this list that have a service manual?
or just the circuit schematics with component values and so for me?
That sounds right. I have manuals and schematics. The final 4 digits
after the model number identify the voltage, current, and other options.
1221B-48xx 24-36v, 600a
1221B-57xx 36-48v, 550a
1221B-66xx 48-72v, 500a
1221B-74xx 72-120v, 400a
The model 1221B does not have the fix to lower the switching frequency
when starting a big low-resistance motor (like the ADC 9"). The 1221C
*does* have this fix.
Without this fix, the current limit does not work for a low-resistance
motor from a dead stop. You get a strong starting "jerk", and the high
current can damage and eventually break the controller. But if you're
using a smaller, higher-resistance motor and starting it is smooth and
jerk-free, the B model is fine.
I'll email you a schematic directly. I don't have an electronic copy of
the manual; just the printed version.
--
Teaching children to program goes against the grain of modern education.
Just imagine the chaos if they learned to think logically, plan, create,
implement, test, and execute!
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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