final Status report:
Thanks to Paul Dove who had a spare 1231C controller he sold me, I'm now
back on the road!
I'll be accelerating at a much gentler pace and watching my motor amp
gauge more, which will be good for my controller (and efficiency), but
not as much fun as taking full advantage of the Nissan Leaf battery
modules....
I also have a blown 1231C on my workbench that I do plan on opening up
and trying to repair at some point. Since I have a working controller
right now, I'll probably try and upgrade the MOSFETS to increase the
power capacity so that I can unleash my lead foot without knocking out
the controller ;> I'll let the list know what I'm up to when I start
that project, but it will probably be a while as I have other priorities
right now.
Jay
On 01/01/2017 01:56 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
For those of you following the drama:
A few days ago my main HV fuse blew.
I used a lightbulb to test the Curtis 1231C controller and it was able
to control the bulb when I pressed on the throttle, so I thought it
might be a problem with my motor or wires. After I checked out the motor
and wires and everything appeared OK, I put a new fuse in and gave the
truck a test drive after I was able to spin the motor in neutral just fine.
Everything was fine at low speeds and current (100A or less) but as soon
as I tried to accelerate to 25-35 mph speeds I noticed that my motor was
only getting 300 amps max. In the past I've had it peg my 500 amp meter
under heavy acceleration.
(This is the point I probably should have let up on the throttle ;>)
After holding the throttle down for about 5 seconds longer than I should
have, the controller failed completely and I was no longer able to get
any current to the motor. (But I had built up enough speed to coast back
home....)
My guess:
When my HV fuse blew the first time, it was because one or more of the
IBGT's in the controller had fried (shorted I assume, blowing the fuse).
At some point later, they became "un-shorted" and the remaining
controllers were able to drive the lightbulb and even my motor at low
current draws, but when I tried to use the vehicle at street speeds they
became overwhelmed and then also blew. (At least they did not take out
my replacement fuse this time....)
I assume it may be possible to repair the controller by replacing just
the IGBT's if nothing else was fried?
Any pointers on repair procedures?
(I'm also in the market for a replacement controller, see my other
email...I'm thinking of attempting the repair mostly to have a spare and
for the experience...)
Thanks,
Jay
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