They use MOSFET's in the 1231, if you want to experitment I can give you some
free of charge, I get lot's of samples for free and would like to see them used
for an EV project.
On Sunday, January 1, 2017 8:56 PM, paul dove via EV <[email protected]>
wrote:
It's called an IGBT
Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor
However a Curtis 1231C has MOSFETS bony IGBTs as far as I know.
Repairing them is not for the novice. They are packed in there tight.
I have one I'm not using I would sell.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 1, 2017, at 12:56 PM, Jay Summet via EV <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> For those of you following the drama:
>
> A few days ago my main HV fuse blew.
>
> I used a lightbulb to test the Curtis 1231C controller and it was able to
> control the bulb when I pressed on the throttle, so I thought it might be a
> problem with my motor or wires. After I checked out the motor and wires and
> everything appeared OK, I put a new fuse in and gave the truck a test drive
> after I was able to spin the motor in neutral just fine.
>
> Everything was fine at low speeds and current (100A or less) but as soon as I
> tried to accelerate to 25-35 mph speeds I noticed that my motor was only
> getting 300 amps max. In the past I've had it peg my 500 amp meter under
> heavy acceleration.
>
> (This is the point I probably should have let up on the throttle ;>)
>
> After holding the throttle down for about 5 seconds longer than I should
> have, the controller failed completely and I was no longer able to get any
> current to the motor. (But I had built up enough speed to coast back home....)
>
> My guess:
> When my HV fuse blew the first time, it was because one or more of the IBGT's
> in the controller had fried (shorted I assume, blowing the fuse).
>
> At some point later, they became "un-shorted" and the remaining controllers
> were able to drive the lightbulb and even my motor at low current draws, but
> when I tried to use the vehicle at street speeds they became overwhelmed and
> then also blew. (At least they did not take out my replacement fuse this
> time....)
>
> I assume it may be possible to repair the controller by replacing just the
> IGBT's if nothing else was fried?
>
> Any pointers on repair procedures?
>
> (I'm also in the market for a replacement controller, see my other
> email...I'm thinking of attempting the repair mostly to have a spare and for
> the experience...)
>
> Thanks,
> Jay
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