That is why Heat Pump heaters are preferably designed without registers,
meaning that they do not blow air.
I have always been amazed by how most of USA has forced air blowing
around through their house, which I find
rather uncomfortable. I am from Europe, where you have radiators under
windows that are warmed with
warm water and air in the room naturally circulates at a very low speed
(natural convection) throughout the room.
Many houses are even converted to radiant floor heating, where the
entire floor is brought to the room temp
so no air flow is needed at all, to warm up the room without requiring
extremely hot source heat, just the
slightly-above-room-temp output of an efficiently running heat pump.
You *can* create hotter output from the heat pump, there even are
air-to-air heat pumps,
but they are not  as efficient as those warming the structure with low
water temperature.
Cor.

-----Original Message-----
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of ROBERT via EV
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2017 10:15 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Cc: ROBERT
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Heat pump vs resistive Heater (never buy another AC
unit)

I have avoided getting into this discussion on heat pumps because I
started the discussion with my question about the size of a resistance
heating element for a small car like the VW and the question was
answered.  However, everyone is praising the efficiency of a heat pump.
Efficiency is not he whole story when it comes to heating a house and
maybe a car.  A heat pump outputs a register temperature of
approximately 90 F.  This low a temperature blowing across your skin is
not comfortable to a lot a people.  A coal fired heating unit register
output is over 140 F.  An oil fired unit is approximately 140 F and a
gas fired unit is approximately 120 F.  In addition, a heat pump unit
must run a longer time to maintain the heat losses from a house.  Heat
pumps run most of the time blowing cool air.  Fossil fuels output a high
temperature at the register and do not run as long.  In determining the
best method of heating a structure, efficiency must be balanced with
comfort.


________________________________
From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Robert Bruninga via EV
<ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2017 9:16 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Cc: Robert Bruninga
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Heat pump vs resistive Heater (never buy another AC
unit)

For the home, never repair or replace or buy another Air Conditioner!

Spend a $100 more and get the two-way Heatpump model.  Whether it is a
window unit, portable 2-hose unit or whole house AC, replace it with a
heatpump.

Even if you have oil or gas heat.  Run the Heatpump all the time in the
winter will save you HALF of the cost of oil for every BTU it puts in
the house.  At current Gas prices, it is kind of wash, but the advantage
of the heatpump is that it can be 100% fossil fuel free when powered by
solar or utility subscribed wind.

I even hang some old window AC-only units in some rooms or basement
joists backwards so they can be used as a heat source in the winter.

Just sayin...
Bob, Wb4APR

-----Original Message-----
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of EVDL
Administrator via EV
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2017 10:35 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Cc: EVDL Administrator
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Heat pump vs resistive Heater (OT, but somewhat EV
related)

On 29 Nov 2017 at 15:07, Peri Hartman via EV wrote:

>  if you choose a heat pump, make sure it will generate the BTUs you 
> need at your coldest temperature or supplement it with some resistance

> heating.

Every home-HVAC heat pump I've ever seen has had supplemental and/or
"emergency" heat.  They all had resistive electric supplemental heat.
I've read more recently about HVAC systems that use fuel gas heat as the
supplement.

I'd assume (and we all know what that is!) that all production EV heat
pumps would also include resistive heating.  Very few people will
tolerate
Yugo- class heating in their vehicles.  (The infamous Yugo GV ICEV came
with a pitiful heater.  Owners who complained were told to keep the
blower on LOW position so the air coming out of the vents would feel a
little
warmer.)

IMO fitting a heat pump to a conversion EV is going to be a pretty
significant challenge.  That holds whether you're trying to make a HP
from an existing aircon that came with the ICEV you're converting, or
trying to convince a HP system from a production EV that it should work
in a vehicle with none of the Canbus signals it expects.  I would have
no idea where to start.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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