It could work.
I've made heated grips years ago. They are only used for extreme riding
conditions like the ride to the
Elefanten Treffen this week. They worked fine on the GoldWing 1000 and
the FJ1200. Now we testing
it on the XS1100. And against the real cold we also uses Hippo Hands
(Vetter).
I really hope that the winter starts tomorrow in west Europe!!
I don't know what type of resistence wire I've used. Probably most
resistance wires are coated but don't
trust on that. So after wrapping it around the grips you have to
isolate it with canvas tape.That causes a
thicker grip.
The trouble was to find out how long the resistance wire should be. Now
I know that it is better to use a
therometer than your fingers to find it out.
A shorter wire gives more heat, and uses more current. When there is to
much heat, you get painfull hands,
the grips will melt and your battery dies. You have to use a switch,
fuse and relay to prevent trouble.
If it is possible, use flat wire for a better contact surface.
The prices of complete heated grips are low nowadays, so may be it's
cheaper to buy then to build.
John Dreuning
Riding this years Elefanten Treffen with his brother's XS1100/sidecar
http://home.planet.nl/~dreuning
Adam Altman wrote:
> OK, I was doing an internet search and found a guy who
> made his own!
>
> Essentially, pick up some reisistence wire, wrap it
> around the grips, and plug it in.
>
> I could do better by sewing it into a neoprene fabric
> and slipping it oever the grips, making it removable
> in summer, and portable.
>
> Throw in a rheostat and I'm golden.
>
> I don't know a damn thing about electronics, so would
> anyone who does point out whythis won't work?
>
> Thanks
>
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