In your message dated: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:59:52 PDT,
The pithy ruminations from "Rev. Baroonstein" on
<Re: GTS Dual headlight...additional comments> were:
=> Waht is the rated alternator output of the GTS, I like lotsa light, but I
=> also leave the highbeam on all the time, so I wouldn't want to kill the
=> battery and/or wires at idle by pulling too much.

OK, there are a few issues here if you're using a higher-wattage headlight bulb:

        1. the alternator output and wiring (with respect to wattage)
                the stock alternator is fine

        2. the voltage drop, and resulting decrease in lamp output
                the stock wiring is just barely acceptable in terms of
                voltage drop if you're running a high wattage lamp (say, up to
                100~110W. I'd never run a 130W high beam with stock wiring).
                Yes, you'll get more light if you use lower gauge  (thicker)
                wire

        3. possible damage due to heat
                a higher wattage lamp is hotter. Over time, even a 100W bulb
                _can_ melt the plastic H4 socket, melt the insulation off the
                wires where the enter the socket, melt the rubber "boot" onto
                the socket, and cause damage including a complete headlight
                failure (low and high beam at once).

If you're running a 90/110 H4 headlight, I strongly recommend:
        use a ceramic H4 socket that is pre-wired with high-temperature leads

        run heavier wiring from the battery to a relay, and from the relay to
        the lamp. The relay will be triggered by the stock switch:

        [** WARNING ** BAD ASCII ART FOLLOWS. Those of you with drafting
         experience, electrical engineers, and persons of sensitive
         disposition are urged not to view the following schematic diagram!]




                       High beam
                     +-------------------+
          \*/        |                   |
   Bulb    -         |    +-----------+  |
          [|]        |    |Low beam   |  |
  Ceramic            |    |          -------               hi\   lo
   Female [_]        |    |          |relay|---+          ____\_____
    H4    |||        |    |          -------   |       +--[headlight]
   Socket |||        |    |             | |    _ Male  |  [  switch ]
          ||+--------+    |             | |   [|] H4   |  -----------
          |+--------------+             | |            |
          |                             | |   [_]Female|
          |                +------------+ |    |  H4   |
          +---------+      |              |    +-------+
                    |      |              |
                   (-)    (+)             |
                  -----------             |
                  | battery |             +------------{switched source}
                  -----------


Legend:
                [_]             Female H4 socket

                [|]             Male H4 plug
                 -

                \*/             bulb
                 -

        {switched source}       some circuit that's only and always powered
                                when the ignition is on, such as the running
                                lights

Note: the wiring from the switch to the battery is not shown. The female H4
socket connected to the switch is the stock socket. The relay output (high beam
or low beam) is selected by the stock switch. The relay is powered from the
battery. The relay is activated by the {switched source}, so that the headlight
is only and always on when the ignition is on. (In reality, the {switched
source} will probably be the stock headlight switch wiring as well, but it's
too complicated to draw in ASCII.)

Mark

-----
Mark Bergman    Biker, Rock Climber, Unix mechanic, IATSE #1 Stagehand
'94 Yamaha GTS1000A
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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=>
=> Carl
=>
=> ----- Original Message -----
=> From: "John Laurenson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
=>
=> things up much better than the stock high/ low beam when I used a 90/110
=> watt H4 bulb.

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