I am very interested too but so busy with my annual on the 172 I have had no 
time to call them.  I will find time this week.  My plan was to add a tab at 
the far end of the Aileron and elev that would be 1"x2".  It won't take much.  
The opposite aileron will need some counterweight added in the same spot.  I 
have an elec tab on my left elev so I will put the new tab on the right side 
again 1x2 should be fine but I may start a little larger at first maybe 2x2.  
My big question would be if the system can be trimmed once you engage it.  I'll 
post details after my call to them.

Craig
N886MJ
N6423B

> On May 16, 2020 at 2:31 AM Gary Sack via KRnet <krnet@list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> 
>  Sounds like I need to move to Snomoish WA and join EAA chapter 84. James
> certainly answered my questions.
>    Does anyone have details on what the tabs would look like? I suppose one
> on the elevator (I already have a little electric trim tab) and one on an
> aileron. I have always wanted an autopilot but have been unwilling to pay
> the price.
> 
> On Fri, May 15, 2020, 10:23 James McGauhey via KRnet <krnet@list.krnet.org>
> wrote:
> 
> > I think the trim tab concept is to simplify installation.  If your control
> > cables work fine and are adjusted properly, then one train of thinking is
> > to not mess with those.  Adding small trim tabs is a simple thing to do
> > without messing with your controls.  That said, most autopilots do work by
> > installing along the control cables.  One system uses a bar often used at a
> > horn, another sister ribs another cable to the control cable and the new
> > one goes around the servo with a capstan.  Either is designed so you can
> > override by manual control and they don't mess up your original control
> > cables.  If something happens, like the loop comes off the capstan, the
> > original controls still work fine.  I was going to build a KR, but changed
> > to a Zenith CH-650 with full Dynon system and we have two servos for
> > autopilot.  One of each kind.  The bar or rod type and the capstan type on
> > elevator.  They've worked great for 2 years now.  The autopilot controls
> > are built into each Dynon screen, just add servos and calibrate.  Dynon
> > servos are about $750 each, total $1,500, which I think is a lot for
> > servos, but the total is cheap for a full autopilot system.  Other brand
> > servos can be used.
> >
> > As for balancing a prop, I'm wondering maybe you balanced by weight, but
> > is there a chance the twist is a bit different for each blade?  There is a
> > dynamic prop balancer, and I know some in KR land have them as it was used
> > at the Oregon gathering a few years ago.  Our EAA Chapter 84 in WA has one
> > in the tool crib.  They cost $1,200 to $1,500 (for the cheap ones, shop
> > type are $4k+).  Having a shop do it is often about $400 to $500.  Our
> > chapter charges $20 but it is only available to members and then only with
> > supervision by a member with experience.  Belonging to a EAA Chapter with a
> > good tool crib is very valuable, even after your build is complete.  We
> > also have very high quality aircraft scales in our chapter, as well as
> > swaging tools, a vinyl cutter, a 3D printer, and more.  We want to add a
> > cable tensiometer as this is often a one time use when setting control
> > cables in a build.  All these items are typically used only a few times
> > during a build and generally not worth buying as an individual.
> > Jim McGauhey
> > Prez, EAA Chapter 84
> > Snohomish, WA
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Gary Sack <garys...@gmail.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2020 11:52 PM
> > To: KRnet <krnet@list.krnet.org>
> > Subject: KR> Two questions
> >
> > I've enjoyed the comments concerning the autopilot. My question is: could
> > the servos drive springs attached to the control cables. This has been done
> > in aircraft for pitch trim and works pretty well. Seems simpler and more
> > aerodynamic than trim tabs that work opposite of the desired result. Either
> > way, I am interested.
> >    Second question...a year ago I wrote about damaging my KR prop while
> > hand starting. I have repaired the prop and statically balanced it, but it
> > vibrates badly. Is there a simple way to dynamically balance a prop? Also
> > does it matter how the prop is orientated to the throw of the crankshaft? I
> > know the engine is fine because my spare prop runs smoothly.
> >
> >    I took Richard's advice to mount a Subaru starter on my HAPI  engine. I
> > had some problems getting the adapter plate just right, but my engine
> > really cranks now. Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Search the KRnet Archives at
> > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/.
> > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html.
> > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> > options.
> > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/.
> Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html.
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org

_______________________________________________
Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/.
Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html.
see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
options.
To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org

Reply via email to