Yes, I use split nuts on board.  In fact, I have some of them on the 12 VDC
buss lines connecting 00 wires together.

But to use them on the offstickers would require either removing the
insulation all the way around the 00 wires, a job I would not want to do,
or using very large split nuts, large enough to go around the insulation
which, because of the softness of the insulation, would not tighten up
hard.   It just wasn't necessary, neither was a spiral clamp.

My offstickers are well soldered, both the offsticker and the 00 wire well
wetted out and the offsticker attached with sufficient heat and lots of
solder for a generous fillet as previously described and carefully
inspected afterwards.  The offstickers are stiff, short (about six inches
or less), and well supported at both ends.  I have absolutely no qualms
about their security and safety.

In addition, I have had the experience of clamped joints using stranded
wire loosening up in time, I suppose from movement due to temperature
changes, the strands seem to "settle in".  After a few weeks I go back and
retighten clamped stranded wire joints. 

I have more faith in soldered stranded wire joints than in clamped stranded
wires.  I have had zero problems with any of my soldered offstickers.

As for electrolytic problems between the copper, solder and stainless hose
clamp, I would feel quite comfortable with such a well taped joint using
self-fusing tape anywhere inside the boat above the splash zone.  


Norm
S/V Bandersnatch
Lying Julington Creek
30 07.695N  081 38.484W


> [Original Message]
> From: Arild Jensen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 7/24/2008 9:07:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] 12 VDC buss
>
> Norm of Bandersnatch wrote:
> >  
> > If you have any qualms about the mechanical security of the 
> > soldered-on offstickers you could install a stainless spiral clamp 
> > over the soldered-on offsticker then wrap everything up with 
> > electrical tape.
>
> REPLY
> I have reservations about mixing  metals. Especailly  those spiral  
> stainless steel clamps.
> However the power utility  industry and electrical contractors generally 
> have a very good solution in stead..
> Called "split nuts"   or "Burndy nuts"  by many trade electricians  
> there is a phosphor bronze  fastener  ideally suited for this 
> appllication. 
> It consist of a large diameter stud  with a hex head one end and a  nut 
> with a captive pressure block  fitting over the end.
> A slot is cut into the large stud or bolt stem  to fit over the cables. 
>   The captive pressuer shoe  slides in this  slot.
> You place the  main power cable into the slot and then the tap-off tail. 
> on top.  Then tighten  down the nut with the pressure shoe.
> This was for a long time  the preferred way to make a Tee tap for a 
> house drop from the street distribution lines.
>  After tightening up the nut and bolt you wrapped the whole in self 
> amalgamating rubber butyl tape  for a weatherproof seal that had mor 
> einsulation than th eactual conductor does. 
>
> In the utility company  I work for we used them for street lighting  
> some above ground splices.
> For larger ampacity circuits and underground splices we did use the AMP  
> tool  with an impact  gun.
>
> regards
> Arild
>
>
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