Norm,?I have used what I think was called a latching or ratcheting relay that 
only requires two wires, hot and gnd,?but I think it required?constant power to 
hold in the relay. The scenerio was I had a lawn irrigation situation where I 
needed to add a sprinkler head, had extra zones on the controller, but didn't 
want to run another wire. The controller and head were on opposite sides of the 
driveway. I hooked the new head to an existing head with a ratcheting relay. I 
jumped another controller zone to the first on the clock and when the first 
zone came on and went off the same wires would activate when the next jumped 
zone on the controller energized and the relay would ratchet and the new head 
would activate. Each time the system activates, the ratchet flip flops. I don't 
know if that type relay is what you are looking for or not.


-----Original Message-----
From: Norm of Bandersnatch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: A LiveAboardList <[email protected]>
Sent: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 4:46 pm
Subject: [Liveaboard] 12 VDC buss




Arlid wrote to me suggesting several sources for latching relays to turn
on/off loads connected to a buss using a remote switch.  (see below)


The idea here is to turn on/off loads fed by the buss using just an 12 VDC
impulse from distant switch(s) to a latching relay at the offsticker.

Arlid suggests, for simplicity, two single wires instead of two pair, one
pulsing the "on" coil, and the other pulsing the "off" coil, the other ends
of the coils being connected to Ground at the offsticker.

There are also latching relays available with one coil.  Reversing the
current through the coil toggles the relay on and off.  


However, I am even lazier than Arlid so I would like to run only one wire.  

First Question of the Day.

To control a load remotely on your new 12 VDC buss how would you rig up a
remote switch to operate either a one or two-coil latching relay so only
one wire (system ground and system 12 VDC is available at both the
switch(s) and the relay) would be needed to operate the relay using either
a center-off momentary toggle switch or two pushbuttons at the control end.
The one-wire would pulse at 12 VDC for one command, pulse at Ground for the
other condition and be floating otherwise.


Second Question of the Day.

I have two switches in the engine room to send signals to the helm.  One
closes to ground when the engine is overheated, the other closes to ground
when the oil pressure is low.  But I have only one wire available to go to
the instrument panel where I have two lamps and a buzzer.  How would I rig
such a system using relays, diodes or other basic parts to light up the
appropriate lamp and sound the buzzer.  Of course I would not want any
current flowing when there is no alarm condition.  There is 12 VDC
available (via a two-terminal oil pressure switch) only when the engine is
running in addition to system 12 VDC and Ground at both ends.. 



>From Arlid:

>>>Have a look at [EMAIL PROTECTED] for big amps relays.
 
I looked at the fog light kit I picked up and they had a chinese no 

name relay there.  However I have seen Bosch type relays 
used in latch mode. 
 
My preference is for the dual coil units like KG uses. It simplifies 
the wiring so a positive going pulse triggers it both ON and OFF. 
 
Any momentary push button pair will do. Several boat manufactures 
use this kind of switch from Carlingswitch to operate things like 
trim tab UP/DOWN or Anchor Winch IN/OUT Or you can use two door 
bell switches. Coil current is low so almost any switch will suffice.
 
Industrial version swith 15A contacts are also available from OMRON 
Potter & Brumfield (P&B) Deltronic plus any relays tha tare plug 
pin compatible.

Electrical wholesales like Wesburne or Grainger Digikey shoudl have a 
listing.<<<
 

Norm
S/V Bandersnatch
Lying Julington Creek
30 07.695N  081 38.484W


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