As far as I can determine, only the things that matter need to be looked at
by the engineer.

They basically check that your car is roadworthy & safe. Everything you
change will be looked at, and everything that connects to the stuff that you
changed will also be looked at, ie. fuel filler, brakes, suspension,
x-members, mounts..




> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Webb
> Sent: Sunday, 10 September 2000 10:29 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: sr20det->1600 and 120y indicator in 1600
>
>
> Terry,
>
> So if I was to put a SR20DET, do things liek seats need to be engineered?
> I'd understand brakes stuff liek that, but seats is harsh. I
> might check it
> out.
>
> Ok as for the 120y wires, on one plug I have green/blue green/black and
> green/red. and on the other I have red/white red/black green/yellow and a
> plain red one. My car is a 68 model 1600. Also one more question, do other
> people have a slight delay when turning from low beam to high
> beam, is this
> the switch or the alternator (please say switch *smile*)
>
> anyway thanx for your help
>
> Richard
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 9:42 PM
> Subject: RE: sr20det->1600 and 120y indicator in 1600
>
>
> > Richard,
> > An engineers certificate will cost between $500 and $1200
> depending on how
> > much of the car has to be engineered, ie brakes, exhaust, wheels,
> > suspension, seats, fuel filler etc and strangely enough where
> you live. SA
> > seems to be the exy place as engineers want to drive the car on a closed
> > road (race circuit usually) and guess who pays for their fun. Ballpark
> price
> > for NSW/ACT seems to be around $750 last time I checked, and I spose
> that's
> > +10% GST these days.
> >
> > Don't get bustered, I don't what the penalty is - prolly depends on the
> > circumstances but you could even get a serious conviction if you're
> involved
> > in an accident. Make the appointment before you drive and get the
> > preliminary inspection done, you are advised to select your engineer
> before
> > you start the conversion and work with him to meet his requirements, I
> think
> > those who have been through the process with minimum pain will
> agree with
> me
> > on that one. Before you go on the street with it you need to disclose to
> > your insurance company and show intent as then you're covered for the
> worst
> > possible case.
> >
> > I haven't got a 120Y diagram here but I presume they have a
> hazard circuit
> > standard. The extra wires will be for that, the hazard circuit is not
> always
> > in a 510 loom, my '70 wasn't but the '72 did have. You'll need a diagram
> of
> > the 510 electrics make it easier to work out unless some one
> who has done
> it
> > comes to the rescue and tells you wire by wire how it hooks up.
> >
> > Which year 1600 do you have, I can then tell where the hazards hook into
> the
> > original loom. Let me know what the colours are of all the wires on the
> 120Y
> > switch and we might be able to work it out.
> >
> >
> > regards
> > Terry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Webb
> > Sent: Sunday, 10 September 2000 5:23 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: sr20det->1600 and 120y indicator in 1600
> >
> >
> > Hey dattoers,
> >
> > Anyone know how much an engineers certificate would cost for a 1600 with
> an
> > sr20det in it? And whats the penalties/fines, if you get
> bustered with one
> > in?
> >
> > Also does anyone know how I connect up the 120y indicator loom
> to the 1600
> > indicator loom, I tried to give it a shot but to no success, as the 120y
> > loom has like 4 wires more!
> >
> > any help on either of these topics would be greatly appriciated!
> >
> > Richard
> >
> >
> >
>
>

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