I couldn't agree more with you. I started talking to a local engineer before
I started my SR20 transplant into my bluebird, and he specified a few things
which I thought were bizarre, generally though, this guy know what he was
talking about and was very friendly and was quite happy to spend half an
hour on the phone explaining things to me. He quoted me $450-$600 maximum to
do the job, plus I'd have to go for a blue slip to change the engine number
for my car's paperwork. I think that's about $30.
A few weeks later, I found that a friend of mine is an engineer, and he told
me a few things that this other guy didn't, and on the same token, he told
me a few things this other guy said were kind of over-doing it a bit.
Basically, you use common sense with this sort of stuff, and you can pretty
much be certain that you'll be ok.
One thing that I am currently looking into, is the fact that my car is going
to be tested for pollution by the RTA. To get around this, I am having two
programs put into my microtech computer by the dyno tuners, one for
emissions, and one for performance. Each one will be easily dialled in via
the handset of the MT ECU. So that if I need to at any point, I can change
the program to suit.. :)
>
> Richard,
> An engineers certificate will cost between $500 and $1200 depending on how
> much of the car has to be engineered, ie brakes, exhaust, wheels,
> suspension, seats, fuel filler etc and strangely enough where you live. SA
> seems to be the exy place as engineers want to drive the car on a closed
> road (race circuit usually) and guess who pays for their fun.
> Ballpark price
> for NSW/ACT seems to be around $750 last time I checked, and I
> spose that's
> +10% GST these days.
>
> Don't get bustered, I don't what the penalty is - prolly depends on the
> circumstances but you could even get a serious conviction if
> you're involved
> in an accident. Make the appointment before you drive and get the
> preliminary inspection done, you are advised to select your
> engineer before
> you start the conversion and work with him to meet his
> requirements, I think
> those who have been through the process with minimum pain will
> agree with me
> on that one. Before you go on the street with it you need to disclose to
> your insurance company and show intent as then you're covered for
> the worst
> possible case.
>
> I haven't got a 120Y diagram here but I presume they have a hazard circuit
> standard. The extra wires will be for that, the hazard circuit is
> not always
> in a 510 loom, my '70 wasn't but the '72 did have. You'll need a
> diagram of
> the 510 electrics make it easier to work out unless some one who
> has done it
> comes to the rescue and tells you wire by wire how it hooks up.
>
> Which year 1600 do you have, I can then tell where the hazards
> hook into the
> original loom. Let me know what the colours are of all the wires
> on the 120Y
> switch and we might be able to work it out.
>
>
> regards
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Webb
> Sent: Sunday, 10 September 2000 5:23 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: sr20det->1600 and 120y indicator in 1600
>
>
> Hey dattoers,
>
> Anyone know how much an engineers certificate would cost for a
> 1600 with an
> sr20det in it? And whats the penalties/fines, if you get bustered with one
> in?
>
> Also does anyone know how I connect up the 120y indicator loom to the 1600
> indicator loom, I tried to give it a shot but to no success, as the 120y
> loom has like 4 wires more!
>
> any help on either of these topics would be greatly appriciated!
>
> Richard
>
>
>
>
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