Andrew,
You say the L20 turbo doesn't drive like an FJ20/SR20 turbo what do you mean
by that? That is a great result though for a "classic" turbo setup, ie using
the L series engine and carbs.
What was your terminal speed at 13.2 and diff ratio & tyre sizes, did you
have turbo-lag in normal driving.
----------
>From: andrew smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: custom turbo set up, I need help
>Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2000 5:52 AM
>
> Wayne,
> If your'e going to do a suck thru set up you'll need a carbon
seal.
> Check with your local turbo shop on availability and cost of having this done
on
> a T25 or T28. Doing this on a T3 can be much cheaper [ mine cost $60 ]. Suck
> thru is the easiest way to go as there is a wider range of suitable carbies
eg.
> CD strombergs, SU's and webbers although webbers are quite expensive and
harder
> to set up. I did my first suck thru on an L16 510, 20 years ago. The book you
> just ordered will be usefull as research is the key to success when playing
with
> turbo's. Another book I've used is Turbochargers by Hugh Macinnes although
it's
> getting old now it has plenty on carby set ups and basic turbocharging
> principils. About a year ago I pulled my FJ20T/510 off the road for a major
> rebuild as it was getting a bit smokey, the gearbox was making noises in
second
> gear again and the body was showing a few rust holes.So I bought another 510
for
> $300 but after driving it around for couple of weeks it wasn't much fun with a
> standard L18. I wouldn't be using the T3 from the FJ20 as I had bigger plans
for
> that and I had an L20 sitting in the garage so this began a low cost
conversion.
> The L20 was freshened up with a rebore,ACL pistons, molly rings, crank ground,
> rods were polised, shot peened, resized with new bolts. An A87 head was ported
> and 44mm inlet valves used, Crow valve springs and lash pads were used with a
> Wade turbo cam with 288 duration and 114 lobe seperation. I made steel inlet
and
> exhaust manifolds which took about 4 days of cutting, grinding and welding. I
> then made a 3'' turbo back mandrel bent exhaust.I found a CD175 stromberg at a
> mates wrecking yard and welded an adapter plate to the turbo.I used the
largest
> needle and seat available and a custom made needle and jet.These are usually
> found at some of the older turbo workshops.Electronic dizzies are a must, I
used
> a Bosch and had it modified by Turbowise in Perth for $50. The dizzy is set at
> 15 with 6 mechanical advance and standard vacum. I made up 45 psi water
> injection set up with a fogger nozzle which is activated by a hoobs pressure
> switch at 6 lbs boost. A borrowed Holley blue was used but this was changed to
a
> Carter 110 gph [ these are much quieter and you dont need a regulator].
> Backfiring can be a bit of a problem especially when cold and using steel
inlet
> manifolds. After playing around with different needles [ sanding them down in
a
> drill ] the mixtures were pretty good. This stopped the backfiring but the
> choke must be used until the motor is nice and warm.The car went well with
> plenty of grunt between 3 and 5 but power fell off over 5. First trip to
> ravenswood it run 14.8@95 with a single spinner and shifting at 5 running
15psi.
> The single carb was to restrictive and after searching everywhere finally
found
> a twin CD175 carb set up on a manifold for $15 at a garage sale.After a bit of
> tuning and the LSD from my other car it was off to Ravenswood again. This time
> running 20 psi a best time of 13.2 which was actually .6 quicker than the FJ20
> with the same turbo same psi.This set up cost less than $2k although most of
the
> work was done by myself. It doesn't drive like an FJ20T/SR20T but its still
> fun.Its done 30,000 miles and with no detonation the head gasket has lasted
even
> running as much 25 psi [ water injection works].My compression ratio is 7.7:1
so
> you should be ok with 8 but i would definately look at water injection with a
> suck thru set up.Good luck with your project.
> Andrew
> Wayne Jones wrote:
>
>> just using carby proabably suck thru, or blow thru depends on if i get a
>> intake manifold when i get a batter car, if i do itall be blow, if not suck.
>> ill proabley try it with stock carb which wont work so good but im still
>> looking for a good priced SU or webber, ive got a su but im pretty sure its
>> to small.
>> ill make my own manifold using a modified strock item, or maybe using those
>> steel ealls menationed on a web site. the only thing im not lookig forward
>> to is seting up the carb so it dosnt run lean on boost and figureing out
>> timing, advance ect.
>> anyway tomorrow im ordering the book so it should be fun.
>>
>> regs
>>
>> >From: "Geordie Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >Subject: RE: custom turbo set up, I need help
>> >Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 08:14:24 +1000
>> >
>> >
>> >Dude, CA & SR create around 10-11 psi in stock form. This can be upped to
>> >14-15 psi if your fuel system is up to it, but you gotta keep the air cool
>> >as it comes out otherwise your just busting your gut and pushing the turbo
>> >hard for no reason. It's all in "THE BOOK!" You can create 30psi if you
>> >wanna, but you gotta have the fuel system, plumbing (intercooler and
>> >exhaust), cooling systems to back it all up or else your gunna start
>> >blowing
>> >stuff up.
>> >
>> >The book tells you all about the theory of it, explains EFI vs blow thru
>> >carbs vs draw thru carbs systems and everything. The book is your bible to
>> >what your doing!!! I'd just be quoting from the book if I were to tell you
>> >much more.
>> >
>> >Are you using EFI or carbys? Do you plan on making up your own manifolds?
>> >
>> >
>> > > -----Original Message-----
>> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Wayne Jones
>> > > Sent: Thursday, 14 September 2000 7:05 PM
>> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> > > Subject: RE: custom turbo set up, I need help
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > hi,
>> > > col thanks for the advice i think ill go with the t25, oreven
>> > > something even
>> > > cheaper as this project is more of a learning curve than 1/4 mile
>> >killer.
>> > > illl have to order that book this weekend.
>> > > oh one last thing does anyone know what the maxium psi the ca18 and sr20
>> > > turbos create in stock for, and also if this is too high for my
>> > > engine can o
>> > > lower the pressure at wish the waste gate opens (i know how to
>> > > keep it close
>> > > with a pressure regularter or similar device).
>> > > and does anyone know of any good turbo how to pages???
>> > >
>> > > regs
>> > > wayne jones
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > >From: "Geordie Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> > > >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> > > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> > > >Subject: RE: custom turbo set up, I need help
>> > > >Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 15:19:12 +1000
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >Average starting price to re-build a garrett turbo is $340 so choose
>> > > >carefully. If I were you, putting a turbo on a stock engine, I'd run a
>> > > >maximum of about 10 psi boost and try and keep it around 7psi or
>> > > you'll run
>> > > >into problems. If you want low end power then go for a t25 and
>> > > if you want
>> > > >more mid-top go for the t28. If you want a good read, I'd recommend the
>> > > >book
>> > > >Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. I have read it over and over again,
>> > > and it is
>> > > >aimed specifically at people like you!
>> > > >
>> > > >When you check out the turbo, make sure it spins but whatever
>> > > you do, DON'T
>> > > >bend the blades inside or your stuft!! Apart from that, you can only
>> >find
>> > > >out if it is stuft by a) putting it on your car and run it or b) pull
>> >it
>> > > >apart and check it over.
>> > > >
>> > > >Before you start though, go and invest $50 on that book and you can't
>> >go
>> > > >wrong!!
>> > > >
>> > > >Average price for a second hand one is around $3-400 so the $240
>> > > one sounds
>> > > >like a good one if it's not blown up!
>> > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > > > hi
>> > > > > im wish to do a custom turbo set up on a l18, escort 1600, escort
>> > > > > 2l pinto,
>> > > > > ect (got a few to choose from)
>> > > > > anyway im fine with the custom manifold ect, but i need a turbo,
>> > > > > so i have
>> > > > > been cheaking out import yards hoping to pck up somthing,
>> > > > > unfortunaltly im
>> > > > > too pick i think. as im after a sr20 garret t28 or ca18 garett
>> > > > > t25????? but
>> > > > > ive only been able to find a sr20 for 420 and ca18 for 240
>> > > bucks, im not
>> > > > > sure if thats dear or not but its the cheepest ive found, JMS
>> >quaoted
>> > > >550
>> > > > > for a ca18 which is like half the price of the engine
>> > > (without comp and
>> > > > > gbox), so i was wondering if any turbo gurus out there had any
>> > > > > advice like
>> > > > > is the turbos i wish to use ok or is there better for the
>> > > price (im not
>> > > > > after huge amounts of power as my engine will be stcok 8:1
>> >comression
>> > > >ect)
>> > > > > can you recomend a dfferant more cheaper alternativ??
>> > > > > do you know where to get turbos on the cheap:
>> > > > > ect ect ect
>> > > > >
>> > > > > regs
>> > > > > Wayne Jones
>> > > > >
>> > >
>> > >_________________________________________________________________________
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>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> >_________________________________________________________________________
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>> >
>>
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