Wayne,
If your'e going to do a suck thru set up you'll need a carbon seal.
Check with your local turbo shop on availability and cost of having this done on
a T25 or T28. Doing this on a T3 can be much cheaper [ mine cost $60 ]. Suck
thru is the easiest way to go as there is a wider range of suitable carbies eg.
CD strombergs, SU's and webbers although webbers are quite expensive and harder
to set up. I did my first suck thru on an L16 510, 20 years ago. The book you
just ordered will be usefull as research is the key to success when playing with
turbo's. Another book I've used is Turbochargers by Hugh Macinnes although it's
getting old now it has plenty on carby set ups and basic turbocharging
principils. About a year ago I pulled my FJ20T/510 off the road for a major
rebuild as it was getting a bit smokey, the gearbox was making noises in second
gear again and the body was showing a few rust holes.So I bought another 510 for
$300 but after driving it around for couple of weeks it wasn't much fun with a
standard L18. I wouldn't be using the T3 from the FJ20 as I had bigger plans for
that and I had an L20 sitting in the garage so this began a low cost conversion.
The L20 was freshened up with a rebore,ACL pistons, molly rings, crank ground,
rods were polised, shot peened, resized with new bolts. An A87 head was ported
and 44mm inlet valves used, Crow valve springs and lash pads were used with a
Wade turbo cam with 288 duration and 114 lobe seperation. I made steel inlet and
exhaust manifolds which took about 4 days of cutting, grinding and welding. I
then made a 3'' turbo back mandrel bent exhaust.I found a CD175 stromberg at a
mates wrecking yard and welded an adapter plate to the turbo.I used the largest
needle and seat available and a custom made needle and jet.These are usually
found at some of the older turbo workshops.Electronic dizzies are a must, I used
a Bosch and had it modified by Turbowise in Perth for $50. The dizzy is set at
15 with 6 mechanical advance and standard vacum. I made up 45 psi water
injection set up with a fogger nozzle which is activated by a hoobs pressure
switch at 6 lbs boost. A borrowed Holley blue was used but this was changed to a
Carter 110 gph [ these are much quieter and you dont need a regulator].
Backfiring can be a bit of a problem especially when cold and using steel inlet
manifolds. After playing around with different needles [ sanding them down in a
drill ] the mixtures were pretty good. This stopped the backfiring but the
choke must be used until the motor is nice and warm.The car went well with
plenty of grunt between 3 and 5 but power fell off over 5. First trip to
ravenswood it run 14.8@95 with a single spinner and shifting at 5 running 15psi.
The single carb was to restrictive and after searching everywhere finally found
a twin CD175 carb set up on a manifold for $15 at a garage sale.After a bit of
tuning and the LSD from my other car it was off to Ravenswood again. This time
running 20 psi a best time of 13.2 which was actually .6 quicker than the FJ20
with the same turbo same psi.This set up cost less than $2k although most of the
work was done by myself. It doesn't drive like an FJ20T/SR20T but its still
fun.Its done 30,000 miles and with no detonation the head gasket has lasted even
running as much 25 psi [ water injection works].My compression ratio is 7.7:1 so
you should be ok with 8 but i would definately look at water injection with a
suck thru set up.Good luck with your project.
Andrew
Wayne Jones wrote:
> just using carby proabably suck thru, or blow thru depends on if i get a
> intake manifold when i get a batter car, if i do itall be blow, if not suck.
> ill proabley try it with stock carb which wont work so good but im still
> looking for a good priced SU or webber, ive got a su but im pretty sure its
> to small.
> ill make my own manifold using a modified strock item, or maybe using those
> steel ealls menationed on a web site. the only thing im not lookig forward
> to is seting up the carb so it dosnt run lean on boost and figureing out
> timing, advance ect.
> anyway tomorrow im ordering the book so it should be fun.
>
> regs
>
> >From: "Geordie Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: RE: custom turbo set up, I need help
> >Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 08:14:24 +1000
> >
> >
> >Dude, CA & SR create around 10-11 psi in stock form. This can be upped to
> >14-15 psi if your fuel system is up to it, but you gotta keep the air cool
> >as it comes out otherwise your just busting your gut and pushing the turbo
> >hard for no reason. It's all in "THE BOOK!" You can create 30psi if you
> >wanna, but you gotta have the fuel system, plumbing (intercooler and
> >exhaust), cooling systems to back it all up or else your gunna start
> >blowing
> >stuff up.
> >
> >The book tells you all about the theory of it, explains EFI vs blow thru
> >carbs vs draw thru carbs systems and everything. The book is your bible to
> >what your doing!!! I'd just be quoting from the book if I were to tell you
> >much more.
> >
> >Are you using EFI or carbys? Do you plan on making up your own manifolds?
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Wayne Jones
> > > Sent: Thursday, 14 September 2000 7:05 PM
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: RE: custom turbo set up, I need help
> > >
> > >
> > > hi,
> > > col thanks for the advice i think ill go with the t25, oreven
> > > something even
> > > cheaper as this project is more of a learning curve than 1/4 mile
> >killer.
> > > illl have to order that book this weekend.
> > > oh one last thing does anyone know what the maxium psi the ca18 and sr20
> > > turbos create in stock for, and also if this is too high for my
> > > engine can o
> > > lower the pressure at wish the waste gate opens (i know how to
> > > keep it close
> > > with a pressure regularter or similar device).
> > > and does anyone know of any good turbo how to pages???
> > >
> > > regs
> > > wayne jones
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: "Geordie Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > >Subject: RE: custom turbo set up, I need help
> > > >Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 15:19:12 +1000
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Average starting price to re-build a garrett turbo is $340 so choose
> > > >carefully. If I were you, putting a turbo on a stock engine, I'd run a
> > > >maximum of about 10 psi boost and try and keep it around 7psi or
> > > you'll run
> > > >into problems. If you want low end power then go for a t25 and
> > > if you want
> > > >more mid-top go for the t28. If you want a good read, I'd recommend the
> > > >book
> > > >Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. I have read it over and over again,
> > > and it is
> > > >aimed specifically at people like you!
> > > >
> > > >When you check out the turbo, make sure it spins but whatever
> > > you do, DON'T
> > > >bend the blades inside or your stuft!! Apart from that, you can only
> >find
> > > >out if it is stuft by a) putting it on your car and run it or b) pull
> >it
> > > >apart and check it over.
> > > >
> > > >Before you start though, go and invest $50 on that book and you can't
> >go
> > > >wrong!!
> > > >
> > > >Average price for a second hand one is around $3-400 so the $240
> > > one sounds
> > > >like a good one if it's not blown up!
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > hi
> > > > > im wish to do a custom turbo set up on a l18, escort 1600, escort
> > > > > 2l pinto,
> > > > > ect (got a few to choose from)
> > > > > anyway im fine with the custom manifold ect, but i need a turbo,
> > > > > so i have
> > > > > been cheaking out import yards hoping to pck up somthing,
> > > > > unfortunaltly im
> > > > > too pick i think. as im after a sr20 garret t28 or ca18 garett
> > > > > t25????? but
> > > > > ive only been able to find a sr20 for 420 and ca18 for 240
> > > bucks, im not
> > > > > sure if thats dear or not but its the cheepest ive found, JMS
> >quaoted
> > > >550
> > > > > for a ca18 which is like half the price of the engine
> > > (without comp and
> > > > > gbox), so i was wondering if any turbo gurus out there had any
> > > > > advice like
> > > > > is the turbos i wish to use ok or is there better for the
> > > price (im not
> > > > > after huge amounts of power as my engine will be stcok 8:1
> >comression
> > > >ect)
> > > > > can you recomend a dfferant more cheaper alternativ??
> > > > > do you know where to get turbos on the cheap:
> > > > > ect ect ect
> > > > >
> > > > > regs
> > > > > Wayne Jones
> > > > >
> > >
> > >_________________________________________________________________________
> > > > > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
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> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >_________________________________________________________________________
> > > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
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> > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
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> > >
> >
>
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