Hello Terry,

Not a problem. Ill make up a bit of a test board before I go posting
anything so I can test how much current it can provide, proper voltage
ranges, etc etc so some poor bastard doesnt get screwed, but I will
probably have something together by about tuesday or wednesday. Chris
if the test board is a complete success and you dont feel like making
one up yourself im sure I could get that one to you somehow.

Saturday, February 16, 2002, 1:11:27 PM, you wrote:

TR> Bob,

TR> That sounds like a good idea. The original query came from Chris W so it's
TR> his call. I thought the bits would cost a lot more than that. I'm sure it
TR> would be useful in the future so it's worth doing the diagram. Being
TR> adjustable it could be used to replace the whole regulator even with the
TR> standard gauges and senders as it's within both ranges on either the 1600 or
TR> 200B. I think i've even got a couple of 1600 gauge sets with blown regs and
TR> one's that work properly are getting difficult to find.

TR> regards
TR> Terry

TR> -----Original Message-----
TR> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
TR> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob
TR> Sent: Saturday, 16 February 2002 1:04 PM
TR> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
TR> Subject: Re[4]: 200B fuel tank in 1600 fuel gauge calibration?


TR> Hello Terry,

TR> I had a bit of a look arround for adjustable regulators, and I found
TR> one, the LM317T which goes for arround the $2-3 mark ($2.60 out of a
TR> 1999 jaycar catalogue). It only needs a handful of support components
TR> to make a fully adjustable 1A or so regulator, over about 1.2 - 11v
TR> off a standard 13.8v battery. If you are still looking at this
TR> problem, I will do up some quick circuit diagrams, diagrams for how to
TR> make it on veroboard (once again, pretty cheap), etc and whack it up
TR> on an FTP site, maybe if this is a reasonably common problem then
TR> other list members could use it as well (it could also be used for
TR> things like light dimmers etc). Anyone got a site that I could put it
TR> on? Or maybe if I talked to the ozdat.com owner they wouldnt mind, it
TR> would go neatly in the tech section.

TR> Saturday, February 16, 2002, 10:08:35 AM, you wrote:

TR>> Bob,

TR>> AFAIK to resistance in either of the senders is linear, but as I see it
TR>> that's not the main problem. The problem is the different voltages being
TR>> applied to the gauge regulators in the 1600 pod and the 200B pod. You
TR> see
TR>> the tank sender units go in the opposite direction to the read out on
TR> the
TR>> gauge, i.e. 0 ohms @ 5v on the 1600 sender reads Full on the 1600 gauge,
TR> and
TR>> 15 ohms on the 200B sender @ 5v reads a little over 1/2 on the 1600
TR> gauge. I
TR>> sent off an email to a friend in the US that i've spoken to in the past
TR>> about this problem. What he did is to disconnect the fuel gauge in the
TR> 1600
TR>> pod from the stock voltage regulator and bought a new regulator from
TR> Tandy,
TR>> wired it all up and it works.

TR>> This is what he wrote:
TR>> Hi,
TR>> To replace the stock 510 regulator use Radio shack cat. No. 276-1770A
TR>> This is a + 5vdc Voltage Regulator 1 Amp. If you need a + 3vdc reg then
TR> look
TR>> up the cat No. and they also stock a variable +-5vdc unit that's a lot
TR> more
TR>> expensive. Disconnect the original, and remove the heat style regulator,
TR>> (the insulator board thing) drill a small hole in the metal cover to
TR> attach
TR>> the radio shack unit. Solder a wire to  the "in" side of unit to the "
TR> IGN"
TR>> 12V plug. Solder in a wire to the "out" terminal of the unit to the
TR> "panel"
TR>> plug. The center terminal is to chassis ground. I didn't need to hook up
TR>> the ground because it was getting ground from somewhere else.
TR>> Try not to use to much heat to unit during soldering or you could
TR>> damage new unit. Plug it back in - works great and costs less than
TR>> $2.00. Hope this works for you:>)

TR>> The panel plugs he's talking about are the Fuel sender (Pin 7) and the
TR> Temp
TR>> sender (Pin 4)
TR>> I'm sure the stock reg replacement if we can get it will cost a few $
TR> more
TR>> than $2 here.
TR>> I think with a little bit of electronics skill you could make something
TR> up
TR>> yourself that's adjustable for very little cost.


TR>> regards
TR>> Terry

TR>> -----Original Message-----
TR>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
TR>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob - Uni
TR>> Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2002 2:27 PM
TR>> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
TR>> Subject: Re[2]: 200B fuel tank in 1600 fuel gauge calibration?


TR>> Hello Terry,

TR>> Is the resistance linear in both the senders? ie, at half tank the
TR>> resistance is halfway through the range? If so, then I should be able
TR>> to tell you how to "recalibrate" the 200B sender to provide the same
TR>> resistance scale as the 1600 sender using 2 resisters, total cost
TR>> would be about 20c from any electronics store, and you could use the
TR>> fuel tanks present sender.

TR>> Tuesday, February 05, 2002, 1:12:55 AM, you wrote:

TR>>> Richard,

TR>>> I've done this on a 1600 a long time ago and I've been talking directly
TR>> to
TR>>> Chris but as I cant find the tech info on how I did this last time due
TR>> to a
TR>>> HDD blow up some time back and I lost a lot of stuff. I'll paste where
TR>> we're
TR>>> up to but I could do with some help from the list.

TR>>> The 180B sender idea just might work with a 1600 gauge without all the
TR>>> frigging around getting a 200B sender to work accurately. Do you know
TR>> what
TR>>> voltage a 180B dash pod runs at and also what is the resistance range
TR> of
TR>> a
TR>>> 180B sender. It just may be the same as the 1600 and that leads me to
TR>> think
TR>>> that this route just may be a better solution than trying to figure out
TR>> how
TR>>> to get around the complexity of the 1600 gauge/200B sender problem.

TR>>> Pasted for info

>>>> I'll have to give this some more thought - first impressions of the
>>>> problem at hand is that a 200B gauge and sender wont work in a 1600 -
>>>> the 1600 pod voltage is 5v and the sender is 0-100 ohms. A 200B pod
>>>> voltage is only 3v and the sender resistance is something like 15-85
>>>> ohms so you see the problem. I'm not sure about the temp gauge sender
>>>> on the 200B either so you could fix the fuel sender and frig the temp
>>>> sender, there were at least 2 (VDO & Niles).
>>>>
>>>> I think using the 200B sender with a resister, probably adjustable is
>>>> the go with the stock 1600 gauge.
>>>>
>>>> I'll be back
>>>>
>>>> TR

TR>>> regards
TR>>> Terry

TR>>> -----Original Message-----
TR>>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
TR>>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard
TR> Clough
TR>>> Sent: Monday, 4 February 2002 10:23 PM
TR>>> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
TR>>> Subject: Re: 200B fuel tank in 1600 fuel gauge calibration?


TR>>> Chris,
TR>>> I cant answer your gauge problem but have you tried it?  180B tank
TR>> sender
TR>>> units work fine with a 1600 gauge. If your not keen to connect it in
TR> the
TR>>> tank, remove the sender unit from the tank and connect to the wiring
TR>> loom
TR>>> and earth.  Operate the float arm and see if the gauge registers
TR>> correctly
TR>>> over the travel of the sender unit arm.  Do it slowly as the gauge is
TR>>> designed to move slowly to avoid wild fluctuations.

TR>>> Can you give us description of how you fitted the bigger 200B tank and
TR>> fuel
TR>>> filler, a few listers have been thinking of trying this for the larger
TR>>> range.
TR>>> ----- Original Message -----
TR>>> From: "Chris Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
TR>>> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
TR>>> Sent: Friday, 25 January 2002 9:54 AM
TR>>> Subject: 200B fuel tank in 1600 fuel gauge calibration?


>>>> Hi All,
>>>>   I have recently put a 200B fuel tank in my 1600 and was woundering how
TR>>> to
>>>> calibrate the fuel guage as I was told it would read on about half way
TR>>> when
>>>> it is full.
>>>>
>>>> Regards
>>>>
>>>> Chris W
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>








TR> --
TR> Best regards,
TR>  Bob                            mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]





-- 
Best regards,
 Bob                            mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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