Hello Chris,

I have a regulator working now, total cost was about $3, its
adjustable down to about 1.2v. I havent tested its current
capabilities yet, but the data sheets on the regulator specify that it
can supply 1.5A, so for a fuel gauge it should be heaps. If you were
going to use it for anything much higher, I would start thinking about
fitting a small heatsink to the regulator itself. Anyone interested in
the diagrams I can send them to you, just send me your address. Chris,
where abouts do you live? I am in Wollongong, so if you are in the
area I can just send it to you or something, otherwise you could make
your own for cheap or I can post it to you.

Monday, February 18, 2002, 10:50:15 AM, you wrote:

CW> That sounds good Bob,
CW>    During the time between my first post I sourced a 200B fuel gauge I was
CW> going to try and adapt that in to my dash as that only cost $5 then i was
CW> going to get a regulator and install that but I have not got around to it
CW> yet.

CW> So if your idea is easyer that mewy be the way to go.

CW> Regards

CW> Chris W
>> Hello Terry,
>>
>> Not a problem. Ill make up a bit of a test board before I go posting
>> anything so I can test how much current it can provide, proper voltage
>> ranges, etc etc so some poor bastard doesnt get screwed, but I will
>> probably have something together by about tuesday or wednesday. Chris
>> if the test board is a complete success and you dont feel like making
>> one up yourself im sure I could get that one to you somehow.
>>
>> Saturday, February 16, 2002, 1:11:27 PM, you wrote:
>>
>> TR> Bob,
>>
>> TR> That sounds like a good idea. The original query came from Chris W
>> so it's TR> his call. I thought the bits would cost a lot more than
>> that. I'm sure it TR> would be useful in the future so it's worth doing
>> the diagram. Being TR> adjustable it could be used to replace the whole
>> regulator even with the TR> standard gauges and senders as it's within
>> both ranges on either the 1600 or TR> 200B. I think i've even got a
>> couple of 1600 gauge sets with blown regs and TR> one's that work
>> properly are getting difficult to find.
>>
>> TR> regards
>> TR> Terry
>>
>> TR> -----Original Message-----
>> TR> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> TR> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob
>> TR> Sent: Saturday, 16 February 2002 1:04 PM
>> TR> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> TR> Subject: Re[4]: 200B fuel tank in 1600 fuel gauge calibration?
>>
>>
>> TR> Hello Terry,
>>
>> TR> I had a bit of a look arround for adjustable regulators, and I
>> found TR> one, the LM317T which goes for arround the $2-3 mark ($2.60
>> out of a TR> 1999 jaycar catalogue). It only needs a handful of support
>> components TR> to make a fully adjustable 1A or so regulator, over
>> about 1.2 - 11v TR> off a standard 13.8v battery. If you are still
>> looking at this TR> problem, I will do up some quick circuit diagrams,
>> diagrams for how to TR> make it on veroboard (once again, pretty
>> cheap), etc and whack it up TR> on an FTP site, maybe if this is a
>> reasonably common problem then TR> other list members could use it as
>> well (it could also be used for TR> things like light dimmers etc).
>> Anyone got a site that I could put it TR> on? Or maybe if I talked to
>> the ozdat.com owner they wouldnt mind, it TR> would go neatly in the
>> tech section.
>>
>> TR> Saturday, February 16, 2002, 10:08:35 AM, you wrote:
>>
>> TR>> Bob,
>>
>> TR>> AFAIK to resistance in either of the senders is linear, but as I
>> see it TR>> that's not the main problem. The problem is the different
>> voltages being TR>> applied to the gauge regulators in the 1600 pod and
>> the 200B pod. You TR> see
>> TR>> the tank sender units go in the opposite direction to the read out
>> on TR> the
>> TR>> gauge, i.e. 0 ohms @ 5v on the 1600 sender reads Full on the 1600
>> gauge, TR> and
>> TR>> 15 ohms on the 200B sender @ 5v reads a little over 1/2 on the
>> 1600 TR> gauge. I
>> TR>> sent off an email to a friend in the US that i've spoken to in the
>> past TR>> about this problem. What he did is to disconnect the fuel
>> gauge in the TR> 1600
>> TR>> pod from the stock voltage regulator and bought a new regulator
>> from TR> Tandy,
>> TR>> wired it all up and it works.
>>
>> TR>> This is what he wrote:
>> TR>> Hi,
>> TR>> To replace the stock 510 regulator use Radio shack cat. No.
>> 276-1770A TR>> This is a + 5vdc Voltage Regulator 1 Amp. If you need a
>> + 3vdc reg then TR> look
>> TR>> up the cat No. and they also stock a variable +-5vdc unit that's a
>> lot TR> more
>> TR>> expensive. Disconnect the original, and remove the heat style
>> regulator, TR>> (the insulator board thing) drill a small hole in the
>> metal cover to TR> attach
>> TR>> the radio shack unit. Solder a wire to  the "in" side of unit to
>> the " TR> IGN"
>> TR>> 12V plug. Solder in a wire to the "out" terminal of the unit to
>> the TR> "panel"
>> TR>> plug. The center terminal is to chassis ground. I didn't need to
>> hook up TR>> the ground because it was getting ground from somewhere
>> else. TR>> Try not to use to much heat to unit during soldering or you
>> could TR>> damage new unit. Plug it back in - works great and costs
>> less than TR>> $2.00. Hope this works for you:>)
>>
>> TR>> The panel plugs he's talking about are the Fuel sender (Pin 7) and
>> the TR> Temp
>> TR>> sender (Pin 4)
>> TR>> I'm sure the stock reg replacement if we can get it will cost a
>> few $ TR> more
>> TR>> than $2 here.
>> TR>> I think with a little bit of electronics skill you could make
>> something TR> up
>> TR>> yourself that's adjustable for very little cost.
>>
>>
>> TR>> regards
>> TR>> Terry
>>
>> TR>> -----Original Message-----
>> TR>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> TR>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob -
>> Uni TR>> Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2002 2:27 PM
>> TR>> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> TR>> Subject: Re[2]: 200B fuel tank in 1600 fuel gauge calibration?
>>
>>
>> TR>> Hello Terry,
>>
>> TR>> Is the resistance linear in both the senders? ie, at half tank the
>> TR>> resistance is halfway through the range? If so, then I should be
>> able TR>> to tell you how to "recalibrate" the 200B sender to provide
>> the same TR>> resistance scale as the 1600 sender using 2 resisters,
>> total cost TR>> would be about 20c from any electronics store, and you
>> could use the TR>> fuel tanks present sender.
>>
>> TR>> Tuesday, February 05, 2002, 1:12:55 AM, you wrote:
>>
>> TR>>> Richard,
>>
>> TR>>> I've done this on a 1600 a long time ago and I've been talking
>> directly TR>> to
>> TR>>> Chris but as I cant find the tech info on how I did this last
>> time due TR>> to a
>> TR>>> HDD blow up some time back and I lost a lot of stuff. I'll paste
>> where TR>> we're
>> TR>>> up to but I could do with some help from the list.
>>
>> TR>>> The 180B sender idea just might work with a 1600 gauge without
>> all the TR>>> frigging around getting a 200B sender to work accurately.
>> Do you know TR>> what
>> TR>>> voltage a 180B dash pod runs at and also what is the resistance
>> range TR> of
>> TR>> a
>> TR>>> 180B sender. It just may be the same as the 1600 and that leads
>> me to TR>> think
>> TR>>> that this route just may be a better solution than trying to
>> figure out TR>> how
>> TR>>> to get around the complexity of the 1600 gauge/200B sender
>> problem.
>>
>> TR>>> Pasted for info
>>
>>>>>> I'll have to give this some more thought - first impressions of the
>>>>>> problem at hand is that a 200B gauge and sender wont work in a 1600
>>>>>> - the 1600 pod voltage is 5v and the sender is 0-100 ohms. A 200B
>>>>>> pod voltage is only 3v and the sender resistance is something like
>>>>>> 15-85 ohms so you see the problem. I'm not sure about the temp
>>>>>> gauge sender on the 200B either so you could fix the fuel sender
>>>>>> and frig the temp sender, there were at least 2 (VDO & Niles).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I think using the 200B sender with a resister, probably adjustable
>>>>>> is the go with the stock 1600 gauge.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'll be back
>>>>>>
>>>>>> TR
>>
>> TR>>> regards
>> TR>>> Terry
>>
>> TR>>> -----Original Message-----
>> TR>>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> TR>>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard
>> TR> Clough
>> TR>>> Sent: Monday, 4 February 2002 10:23 PM
>> TR>>> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> TR>>> Subject: Re: 200B fuel tank in 1600 fuel gauge calibration?
>>
>>
>> TR>>> Chris,
>> TR>>> I cant answer your gauge problem but have you tried it?  180B
>> tank TR>> sender
>> TR>>> units work fine with a 1600 gauge. If your not keen to connect it
>> in TR> the
>> TR>>> tank, remove the sender unit from the tank and connect to the
>> wiring TR>> loom
>> TR>>> and earth.  Operate the float arm and see if the gauge registers
>> TR>> correctly
>> TR>>> over the travel of the sender unit arm.  Do it slowly as the
>> gauge is TR>>> designed to move slowly to avoid wild fluctuations.
>>
>> TR>>> Can you give us description of how you fitted the bigger 200B
>> tank and TR>> fuel
>> TR>>> filler, a few listers have been thinking of trying this for the
>> larger TR>>> range.
>> TR>>> ----- Original Message -----
>> TR>>> From: "Chris Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> TR>>> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> TR>>> Sent: Friday, 25 January 2002 9:54 AM
>> TR>>> Subject: 200B fuel tank in 1600 fuel gauge calibration?
>>
>>
>>>>>> Hi All,
>>>>>>   I have recently put a 200B fuel tank in my 1600 and was
>>>>>>   woundering how
>> TR>>> to
>>>>>> calibrate the fuel guage as I was told it would read on about half
>>>>>> way
>> TR>>> when
>>>>>> it is full.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Regards
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Chris W
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> TR> --
>> TR> Best regards,
>> TR>  Bob                            mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Best regards,
>> Bob                            mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>






-- 
Best regards,
 Bob                            mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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