Hi Terry,

You think this may be a possible solution for ppl trying to get temp 
senders (eg in conversions) to be compatible with the 1600 temp gauge also?

Andrew 

On Sat, 16 Feb 2002, Terry Rudd wrote:

> Bob,
> 
> AFAIK to resistance in either of the senders is linear, but as I see it
> that's not the main problem. The problem is the different voltages being
> applied to the gauge regulators in the 1600 pod and the 200B pod. You see
> the tank sender units go in the opposite direction to the read out on the
> gauge, i.e. 0 ohms @ 5v on the 1600 sender reads Full on the 1600 gauge, and
> 15 ohms on the 200B sender @ 5v reads a little over 1/2 on the 1600 gauge. I
> sent off an email to a friend in the US that i've spoken to in the past
> about this problem. What he did is to disconnect the fuel gauge in the 1600
> pod from the stock voltage regulator and bought a new regulator from Tandy,
> wired it all up and it works.
> 
> This is what he wrote:
> Hi,
> To replace the stock 510 regulator use Radio shack cat. No. 276-1770A
> This is a + 5vdc Voltage Regulator 1 Amp. If you need a + 3vdc reg then look
> up the cat No. and they also stock a variable +-5vdc unit that's a lot more
> expensive. Disconnect the original, and remove the heat style regulator,
> (the insulator board thing) drill a small hole in the metal cover to attach
> the radio shack unit. Solder a wire to  the "in" side of unit to the " IGN"
> 12V plug. Solder in a wire to the "out" terminal of the unit to the "panel"
> plug. The center terminal is to chassis ground. I didn't need to hook up
> the ground because it was getting ground from somewhere else.
> Try not to use to much heat to unit during soldering or you could
> damage new unit. Plug it back in - works great and costs less than
> $2.00. Hope this works for you:>)
> 
> The panel plugs he's talking about are the Fuel sender (Pin 7) and the Temp
> sender (Pin 4)
> I'm sure the stock reg replacement if we can get it will cost a few $ more
> than $2 here.
> I think with a little bit of electronics skill you could make something up
> yourself that's adjustable for very little cost.
> 
> 
> regards
> Terry
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob - Uni
> Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2002 2:27 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re[2]: 200B fuel tank in 1600 fuel gauge calibration?
> 
> 
> Hello Terry,
> 
> Is the resistance linear in both the senders? ie, at half tank the
> resistance is halfway through the range? If so, then I should be able
> to tell you how to "recalibrate" the 200B sender to provide the same
> resistance scale as the 1600 sender using 2 resisters, total cost
> would be about 20c from any electronics store, and you could use the
> fuel tanks present sender.
> 
> Tuesday, February 05, 2002, 1:12:55 AM, you wrote:
> 
> TR> Richard,
> 
> TR> I've done this on a 1600 a long time ago and I've been talking directly
> to
> TR> Chris but as I cant find the tech info on how I did this last time due
> to a
> TR> HDD blow up some time back and I lost a lot of stuff. I'll paste where
> we're
> TR> up to but I could do with some help from the list.
> 
> TR> The 180B sender idea just might work with a 1600 gauge without all the
> TR> frigging around getting a 200B sender to work accurately. Do you know
> what
> TR> voltage a 180B dash pod runs at and also what is the resistance range of
> a
> TR> 180B sender. It just may be the same as the 1600 and that leads me to
> think
> TR> that this route just may be a better solution than trying to figure out
> how
> TR> to get around the complexity of the 1600 gauge/200B sender problem.
> 
> TR> Pasted for info
> 
> >> I'll have to give this some more thought - first impressions of the
> >> problem at hand is that a 200B gauge and sender wont work in a 1600 -
> >> the 1600 pod voltage is 5v and the sender is 0-100 ohms. A 200B pod
> >> voltage is only 3v and the sender resistance is something like 15-85
> >> ohms so you see the problem. I'm not sure about the temp gauge sender
> >> on the 200B either so you could fix the fuel sender and frig the temp
> >> sender, there were at least 2 (VDO & Niles).
> >>
> >> I think using the 200B sender with a resister, probably adjustable is
> >> the go with the stock 1600 gauge.
> >>
> >> I'll be back
> >>
> >> TR
> 
> TR> regards
> TR> Terry
> 
> TR> -----Original Message-----
> TR> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> TR> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Clough
> TR> Sent: Monday, 4 February 2002 10:23 PM
> TR> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> TR> Subject: Re: 200B fuel tank in 1600 fuel gauge calibration?
> 
> 
> TR> Chris,
> TR> I cant answer your gauge problem but have you tried it?  180B tank
> sender
> TR> units work fine with a 1600 gauge. If your not keen to connect it in the
> TR> tank, remove the sender unit from the tank and connect to the wiring
> loom
> TR> and earth.  Operate the float arm and see if the gauge registers
> correctly
> TR> over the travel of the sender unit arm.  Do it slowly as the gauge is
> TR> designed to move slowly to avoid wild fluctuations.
> 
> TR> Can you give us description of how you fitted the bigger 200B tank and
> fuel
> TR> filler, a few listers have been thinking of trying this for the larger
> TR> range.
> TR> ----- Original Message -----
> TR> From: "Chris Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> TR> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> TR> Sent: Friday, 25 January 2002 9:54 AM
> TR> Subject: 200B fuel tank in 1600 fuel gauge calibration?
> 
> 
> >> Hi All,
> >>   I have recently put a 200B fuel tank in my 1600 and was woundering how
> TR> to
> >> calibrate the fuel guage as I was told it would read on about half way
> TR> when
> >> it is full.
> >>
> >> Regards
> >>
> >> Chris W
> >>
> >>
> >>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Best regards,
>  Bob                            mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 

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