Daniel.
The Only Numbers I can find on the box is a hand written in black texta.
(the number is CS7254) There is no bar code on the box so I guess this is what you 
need.
The box is white and green and has CAR SHOW AUTOMOTIVE PRODUCTS CO., LTD. on the back.
I bought them at the local Auto One shop.
You probably don't have AUTO ONE STORES where you are.If you are interested I can find 
out how much they are, let you know and if you still want the I can mail them to you.
They did do two sets, one set was just the doors and the other was the doors and the 
boot.
I can even set them up to work properly with the right lever things as you get three 
and I still have the other two so knowing the right ones to use will be easy to work 
out.So that just leaves you with getting a couple of files out(round and flat 
Finishing) and adjusting the holes that they slip into.
Any how let me know.
Later.
Rick White.


--- "Daniel Kroehn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>No hurry at all, but if you do come across the part no. or know of a
>supplier I would appreciate it.  I'm just sick of my drivers side barrel
>wearing out quickly, another few months and I reckon I'll be able to open it
>with any key again.  I'm in the process of installing all around central
>locking and I was going to disconnect the door barrels, but I'm a little
>hesitant to rely upon my central locking to working 100% of the time.
>
>Cheers
>
>Daniel Kroehn
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Rick White" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 8:27 PM
>Subject: Re: Solex Locks/was Radiator
>
>
>> Daniel.
>> I got the cheep copies.
>> They are called carshow.
>> They are a jap multifit design.
>> I just had to do a little filing to the Holes the lock fits into to fit
>them.
>> It took me less than a hour to fit the ones on the front doors.
>> As mine is a wagon I didn't buy the boot one as it woulda been a waste of
>time and money as they are designed different.
>> Wagons have a push button arrangement.
>> I am happy with the locks.
>> I was getting a lock broken by lowlifes about once every two months, I
>would replace them and one would get broken.
>> My car hasn't had a attempt that I know of since I installed them.
>> I can't seem to find the box they came in at the moment otherwise I would
>give you the part number.If you want it I will look harder for you.
>> Later.
>> Rick White.
>>
>>
>> --- "Daniel Kroehn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> >Which solex locks did you use?  When I went to buy some they didn't have
>a
>> >listing for a 1600, just everything else.
>> >
>> >Daniel Kroehn
>> >
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 8:49 PM
>> >Subject: Re: Radiator
>> >
>> >
>> >> Adam
>> >> My last 3 core replacement cost about $230.  Not cheap, but bolt in and
>as
>> >> Terry just explained, you'll never boil it given all else is in good
>> >> condition.
>> >> Like Terry, my experience was almost identical. Thrashing an L18 rally
>> >> engine to seven five, all day in the desert near Broken Hill in mid
>summer
>> >> didn't shift the temp gauge off mid range normal.
>> >>
>> >> Will it be adequate for an SR20DET?  I would guess yes.  The SR pumps
>out
>> >a
>> >> bit more grunt which needs to cooled, but its all alloy, so it would
>loose
>> >a
>> >> fair bit of heat from the block as well.
>> >>
>> >> If it is an easy match I would go this way, however, I think the SR
>gets a
>> >> bit tight in the engine bay and I thought most installations needed a
>> >> thinner core radiator for clearance?
>> >>
>> >> ----- Original Message -----
>> >> From: "Adam Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >> Sent: Monday, 23 September 2002 21:04 PM
>> >> Subject: Re: Radiator
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> > Richard,
>> >> >
>> >> > On the topics of radiators, do you know what it would be worth to get
>> >this
>> >> > done? ie replace the core with a 3 core radiator? and would this
>provide
>> >> > adequate cooling for say an sr20det?
>> >> >
>> >> > cheers,
>> >> > Adam
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > ----- Original Message -----
>> >> > From: Richard Clough
>> >> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> >> > Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 9:02 PM
>> >> > Subject: Re: Radiator
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > Chris
>> >> > If the radiator "isn't that flash" but it was adequate for an L16, it
>> >may
>> >> be
>> >> > totally inadequate for a hipo 2.4 litre.
>> >> >
>> >> > I would at least have the tanks removed to check the cores aren't
>> >blocked.
>> >> > While the tanks are off I would put a new three core radiator back
>I,n
>> >and
>> >> I
>> >> > think your overheating problem will be gone.
>> >> > ----- Original Message -----
>> >> > From: Chris Simpson
>> >> > To: ozdat
>> >> > Sent: Monday, 23 September 2002 20:34 PM
>> >> > Subject: Radiator
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > g'day all,
>> >> >
>> >> > Im running astroker 2.4L L20 and im having cooling probs, looking for
>> >some
>> >> > help from those in the know!
>> >> >
>> >> > With the L16 there was never even a hint of a problem, even thou the
>rad
>> >> > isnt that flash.  Now i could get it recored to a 3 core but the 3rd
>> >core
>> >> > will never work aswell, so im thinking that wont solve all the
>problems.
>> >> >
>> >> > What have others done with stroker motors running hot?
>> >> >
>> >> > How well does the N13 rad line up with the L series hoses?  This may
>be
>> >my
>> >> > only option although i'd like to keep the std look
>> >> >
>> >> > THanks in advance
>> >> >
>> >> > CHris S
>> >> >
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