Tom, I've had a look at the 240K wiring diagram and from what I can make out the voltage regulator is wired just like a 1600 but without the charge light. The ammeter circuit is active i.e. it has real current going through the gauge just like an aftermarket type but the pickup points are before the VR and on the Bat wire. I can't see why the engine wont start with the 6 pin plug disconnected or the ammeter but the alternator obviously needs a signal that the ignition is on - some Bosch need this and some don't and I don't know what the difference is. The auto choke relay is fired off the alternator field circuit but again the pickup point is before the VR, so unless the VR wiring has been moded in some way, then it's got me beat. Speaking of the auto choke, by replacing the Hitachi with a Bosch just might upset this relay as you don't connect a field wire with the Bosch. I think you would have to wire in a straight ignition feed which is easy to do, downer will be the choke will turn off if you just sit in the driveway with the ignition on but if you just start and drive like normal, then the choke relay will operate as with the Hitachi - not a problem in Adelaide but could be if you're on hols in Canberra it could be.
regards Terry -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of GREENBURY, Andrew Robert Sent: Sunday, 5 January 2003 4:34 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Alternator regulators Hi Tom, Earlier this year, I found that my alternator was not charging because I replaced the charge light with an LED - ie the LED being of high impedence was acting pretty much like no charge light was connected. I found reconnecting the charge light fixed the alternator operation again. I concluded the same as you and zac - that a sink of sufficient current draw (a light bulb) was required to signal to the alternator that the ignition key was on but the engine wasnt yet, or something like that. rather than hooking up a light, you could just use a resistor of similar resistance to the indicator bulb (I havent tried it though). Andrew On Tue, 31 Dec 2002, Terry Rudd wrote: > Tom, > > I noticed after I emailed you last night that there was another post in > which you said that the car wouldn't start when you had the regulator plug > apart - I presume it would crank over but there wasn't any power at the > coil. Interesting, sounds like they feed the ignition via the regulator > somehow through the ammeter, so the 240K ammeter must be an active type (as > in if it fries you stop and scratch head) and not a passive sensing type > like in H*ndas & Toy dashes. When you had the 12v light running to the S > terminal on the alternator and the ammeter was showing charge @ +30A, did > the alternator appear to be actually charging. This is the sort of thing > that auto sparks do all the time, and unless anything gets hot or sparks > fly, there very rarely is any damage likely to be done. I wouldn't source > the S feed from the old external regulator though as that is likely to get > things excited and it would need to be ignition activated to work properly. > > I'm thinking this may be OK, as you don't have a F(ield) wire connected then > the Ex reg shouldn't active anyway but it will provide the ammeter circuitry > and it shouldn't affect the IR reg alternator. I'd need to see the schematic > diagram to know how they run the ammeter and ignition feed to the coil. > > I'm pretty much stuck at this point - interesting problem though. > > regards > Terry > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Richardson > Sent: Tuesday, 31 December 2002 12:52 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: Alternator regulators > > > > > > > >then you probably have only connected the Batt wire and an earth > >at the alternator end. > > > > > Correct. > > >many wires are in the plug. There should be 4 or 6, the later I know about > >but if it's only 4 wires can you tell me what the all do eg field, ign, > >ground etc > > > > > Same as a 1600 but no 6th wire (dash chg light) - so there's 5! > > >What colour are wires that were originally connected to the old alternator > > > Thick W to batt, WB to F and Y to N > The new one was in a IR-converted 510 and worked brilliantly. > > As > > >Thirdly, do the wires from the alternator change colours at the external > >regulator plug where it joins the main loom like a 1600? > > > > > Pretty sure that's a no > > Zac and I think that the lack of charge light means that the field > circuitry isn't being agitated, so the alt doesn't actually start > charging. We did have the 'S' light on 12V briefly and it ammeter > showed +30A, but we disconnected this as we weren't sure if it would > damage the IR. > > Are we on the right track - do I need to make myself a charge light > circuit to agitate the alt? > > Cheers! > > - Tom > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
